RANDY

If it is a real accident... there is no way they've removed any bodies from that chassis yet. =-o Disturbing! The Top Gear test-crash of a Smart Car came out much better than this... from 70mph into a concrete barrier, and you'd still be in one (injured) piece.

Google searches may help further, or break out the calculator: 1.8mmhg (actuall x100 on the scale, right?) = 180mmhg 760mmhg = 14.7 psi. (700mmhg on the scale is about 14psi) 52mmhg = 1 psi 180/52 goes 3.46 times. 3.46x 1psi = 3.46psi? Well, probably totally wrong... but i've been awake for 24 hours now, so I suggest you do that on a calculator and double-check it. ;o)

Well... put me down on the list if payment falls through? Cheers

The grounding of the RCA's.... heh... Pretty sure that if you plug the RCA's in while the system is powered on, you can kill the grounding in the amp and/or headunit. After that, the grounding is gone and the noise comes in. I had 50/50 luck with grounding the RCA's to the chassis. The noise went completely from one set of RCA's, and about 50% from the others. My headunit also had a blown ground track on a PCB, which I repaired, but it made no difference.

I described my method in the tutorial for doing this resealing... Block of wood (small) and push against the studs SLOWLY. If you kick or suddenly hit the assembly, you may put a dirty big crack in it! I didn't heat anything up in the end, just push the other studs slowly with the block of wood, and the glue started giving way.

I put a 34 SMIC in my car, and it pushes right up against the front bar. This thing looks like it would want to sit much further forward? The distance from the inlet/outlet to the back of the core looks the same as my 33 and 34 cooler, so the extra thickness APPEARS to take more space at the front? Definitely keep us updated on the flow results! I'm keen to know how much better this 34 cooler is over the 33 one, regardless of the dual-core setup.

Well.. it's been a while. Count me in if something eventuates!

Also while you're at it, pull the rubber boots of the packs, and check that the hole that the springs sit in are not corroded or anything. Clean it out with cottonbuds and whatever cleaning solution you think is best, line all the springs up on a table and check that they're all the same length roughly. If there are any shorter ones, stretch them out again. Polish up the contact areas etc. Who knows... you might accidentally fix the problem while checking and cleaning stuff.

I guess you could try that boost solanoid trick? The stocker runs 5psi up to 4500rpm, then runs 7psi. If you permanently ground the earth wire (I think it was earth, you have to read the thread), you could get 7psi always. So I guess if you cut the ground wire, and never earth it, the ECU can never give it 7psi, and you'll be running 5psi constantly? Otherwise, the TurboSmart boost controller that a user on here makes and sells is fully adjustable, and cheap.

Could water have made it to your coilpacks? The valley cover isn't great at keeping water out once the rubber seal cracks up.

Yer... your standard headunit has a built-in amplifier... which... amplifies? =-p So yeah, you'll need some form of amp because the one in the ipod or whatever will be around 1w or whatever it needs to drive earphone-sized speakers. =-] Cheap option would be JayCar's really low-powered kind of deals. 25 or 50watt. Get a 3.5mm stereo mini jack to 2xRCA cable, and you're set! ipod -> 3.5mm -> RCA -> Amp -> speaker wire -> speakers

Glad we could help! =-p =-]

It's rated in mmHg, not bar... bear in mind =-] So you're seeing above zero at idle? I'd probably guess it could be a sticky needle in on the dash, or something wrong with the vacuum line or sensor. Check both under the bonnet. I've described where and what it looks like, so just check that everything looks right. If you search, you might find the voltages that the sensor puts out or something, that you could then test with a multimeter. I guess if it's on -7 when off, and then it goes to around +3 when you start the car, it can hardly be a sticky needle. Perhaps the electrical wiring from the sensor is being grounded on the chassis somewhere causing a misreading? Not totally sure how the pressure sensor reads and reports the pressure, but if you have a poke around i'm sure you could narrow it down. On idle it should be a quarter from the bottom (-7)... about -3.5mmHg.

Crossover frequency? Or possibly some kind of bandpass? I'm just guessing that it's some setting of a frequency.

Umm... you're definitely reading it correctly? -7 then 0 then +7? So a quarter way up the guage is actually vacuum between 0 and -7 mmHg. In any case, there is a vacuum pipe running from the back of the plenum somewhere, up to the drivers side where you will find a little black box. That's the boost sensor, which then goes electronically to the guage... I thought it went to the ECU first, but someone said that this was not the case.

I have the 4x130wrms, and it's been a trooper since day one. =-]

Dunno man.. I could be wrong. I've just had the same sort of thing happen 3 times now. 6 LED's total. I could be wrong about your situation though.

Not an entirely bad idea... I think i'd rather have mine turn off when i'm on throttle but below 1500rpm. Every time it's on and I take off from the lights there is so much horrible lag that you really need to ride the clutch a bit to be smooth. On at idle though... it'd suck sitting in traffic sweating to death!

I think when the LED's get overheated, they are semi-dead. I've had 4 of them do the exact same thing to me, and then I went back to the drawing board and started measuring the temperature of the resistors with my multimeter. 14v down to 3.3v, at 100ma, using a 1/2watt resistor saw the temp go to about 80 degrees celcius within 30 seconds. I'm using a 1 watt resistor now, and it gets to about 70 degrees. Obviously still too hot, because the globe assembly part has actually deformed from the heat, and those LED's are now stuffed. My left-hand side doesn't work at all anymore, and the right-side flickers on and off.

Good one! So the diode (one-way only) stops the A/C from seeing the fans ground? But the fan can see the A/C's ground, so it comes on. I was keen to do something like this! Oh, and to confirm, my 33 doesn't switch the fan on when the A/C is on either.

Yes, and No. =-] If you didn't have a crossover, i'd guess that you wired the tweeters and mids in parallel to the amp, which is not the worst thing in the world, but certainly hooking up normal 2 or 3-way speakers is going to be no problem. Leave the stereo system off, and you're fine to play with those wires.

Yer, the pocket in that console... it has a round hidey-bit, with a little screwdrivery slit in it. Screwdriver the cover off, and unscrew the screw. Then, the whole panel will come out.. it is just clipped in after you remove the screw. Then unplug the power window switch console, or just unscrew the console out of that plastic part. Window handle on the inside is hard to take off, but if you ease it to the left, it'll eventually unclip. From there, tug the bottom of the door, work your way towards the top. The doorskin is clipped into the door (after you remove the THREE screws at the bottom). Then when the whole thing is loose from the bottom, lift up slightly to unhook it from the window-sill. Pods are 4 screws. Easy out.

That doesn't sound right? You have to press the button to make the window go up and down. That's normal, but do you mean that the "auto" up doesn't work? Cause then it's a dead relay or something. If your ALARM has an auto window up when you lock the car, then you might want to dig up your alarm details and PM Chris Rogers. =-]

Isn't it under the parcel-tray in the boot like the 33's?

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