RANDY

Your LED and resistor is getting too hot... I bet. If you work out which resistor you need (in ohms), you'll probably also notice a "wattage" rating. The bigger, the more amperage it can handle. The more amperage it has to drop for the LED, the more it has to transfer energy into the form of heat. The heat will make an LED work, not work, flicker... you name it. For most 14v applications, a 1 watt resistor is MINIMUM, but i've encountered problems even with those! A 2watt would work, but they're HUGE! Only workaround I can think of is to use two resistors per LED. One to drop the voltage, and one across the LED to drop the amperage. Theoretically, they will both share the load. 2x1watt = 2watt. Yet to actually TRY this though. =-[

Yep, doortrims off like most other cars. Checked the DIY area yet? The question has come up many times.

Tried that too. Tried running the RCA's completely out of the car, then into the boot. No change. Earthing the RCA's helped about 50% at the time. You just run a wire from the outer contact to somewhere metal on the car. It got rid of the noise quite a bit, but it was still there. The noise apparently comes in when either the HU or the amp isn't grounding the negative part of the RCA cable properly. These cables carry 2v or more in them, so plugging them in and out while everything is powered up can kill the grounding fuse or track in either your HU, amp, or both! I opened my HU when I had this problem, and found the ground track was burnt through. I bridged it with some wire, tested with a multimeter and put it back in. No change at all. I suspect it's blown somewhere else too.

I haven't NOTICED any differences between the two... just make sure you're buying an auto radiator, but you probably knew that?

The spring pushes the tensioner into the belt harder... so it takes up the slack. Unlikely that you'd need to replace it. On the V6 commodores it's quite handy to take the fan/AC/alternator belt off without undoing anything. ;o)

Well, as per the picture above, make sure there is the obligatory hammer there, so your dash knows you mean business!

There you go! The bolt is in the correct way. And as SteveL said, I can also see that my locking bolt doesn't stick out anywhere near that far.

So the stepping in the motor that pushes the laser around or the motor that varies the spin speed of the disc draws various amounts of current. My motor or alternator whine noise happens when I listen to the radio too. I also beleive this only happens to people who run RCA cables to an amp? That's when mine did it, anyway.

If I were you, have a search for the Apexi grounding unit (or those other brands that come in a blue box), and see what the manual says. From memory, there was the block, the alternator housing, somewhere around the strut towers... and a few more. Maybe even just look through apexi's manuals and see what their kits ground?

220mA with the interior lights on? (while you have the door or boot open) Doesn't sound like much... but if the alternator wasn't fully charging the battery, then perhaps that is your problem?

As said above, a taller gear might help, but failing this, a mate helped me lock up the flywheel, and then we managed to get it undone. He had the same problem on his R32GTR also, and broke two ratchets in the process. Ended up taking it down to a diesel mechanic, who used a 700nm capable rattle gun, spent 5 minutes rattling, and eventually it came undone.

And does it run properly after that? You can get a new Bosch unit for much less than that. Direct replacement.

Oh I see what people are saying about the bolt being backwards. I think they're referring to the locking bolt. You can see the end of it poking out the front. I guess now this is the one you were talking about? It's threaded in that block where the head of the bolt is. (towards the rear) I can't remember which way round it is supposed to be, but if it's backwards, then it won't be doing any locking whatsoever. I'll check mine next time I go downstairs for a smoko.

Agreed agreed. The long bolt does not need a nut. It is locked into place by another bolt that runs perpendicular to the one pictured. Undo that locking bolt first, then the long one in the picture will turn without much resistance.

so tred: I bought the $22 (cost more than that now) boost controller to achieve 7psi. I beleive the stock solanoid constantly "bleeds" some pressure out to the wastegate, so it takes a bit longer to build it up. Using the manual "ball and spring" controller made a HUGE difference for me. No extra fuel usage, but much more stable and constant boost. I ran 7psi with a completely stock setup, and i'm now running 8psi with just a split dump and 3" cat. It's a "must do" thing, I beleive.

Cheers, Sam! I was looking into getting the foglight lenses and trying to use them on the indicators, but it appears to be a slightly different shape. You really have to smash them out to get them out? Yikes! =-/

Plastic dash strip... is that a series 1 or 2? Also, where in Sydney are ya? Please PM reply! Cheers!

Nice work, Sam. Now... something i've always wanted to do is: get rid of the orange lens on the front indicators. I can see you've done it... with perspex or something? Tell me how now, brown cow!

3.587rwkw in any car. =-p

I beleive when the A/C is on "feet", the actuator behind the dash will push a flap and direct air to the feet vents at the front, and to those under the front seats. Those outlets are further away, so they'll probably have more resistance down the tube and therefore won't feel like they're on unless you have the fan on pretty strong.

Post pics! =-] I can't see anything on my car in that location... got horns... bonnet latch and cable... thermo fan for condenser... plug for fan... ???

No dramas! =-D

Pedals look like a Skyline.

Tried clutch-starting it? If you can roll it down a gentle hill, that should be enough to get it going and then go for a drive to charge it up.

Yikes! I don't wanna hack them off! And yes, mine's a stock series 2 wheel. I like the idea of relocating them further away