RANDY

You got a solid diff?

How can you not get that immediately? I was hanging to see a 600-800hp figure at the bottom! Maybe it was rwkw, but they printed bhp instead?

I found that my rear bar doesn't vibrate, but the boot lining at the end of the boot (the lining that covers the brakelights and bootlock) is vibrating quite badly against the metal of the car. From the outside, it sounds like the rear bar.

I'd go with that too... It has the demister zig-zag, and it has the wiper arm.. both on the same picture/button.

You haven't mentioned anywhere that you've tried the key? Unless I missed that somewhere. If the wire is loose, and the lock won't open because of it, then the key will over-ride that anyway.

I can't remember, but if you line up facing a blank wall at the shops, you'll quickly see which one does what. =-]

post pics

Nope!

1) I think that is recommended. Deaded as many large panels as you can. It gets expensive though. I have just done the metal parcel tray, and it doesn't rattle anymore. I have made my own parcel tray also, out of thicker MDF.. that's definately the way to go. The stocker is cardboard-thin! 2) As far as I know, noone has touched that before. If you want to experiment, I guess you could remove the rear seat, then use a hole-saw to drill two chunky holes, then ram a bass-reflex port that protrudes in to the battery/boot area? I guess the seats are going to muffle anything that's already there anyway. I have put a guide somewhere on helping with the doors. The door trim has metal tabs that hang on the door-sill... metal on metal shakes like crazy. The furry side of velcro on the door-trim tabs was a simple solution there, but you COULD soundproof the entire door. I'm quite happy with what i've done, and it's noise-free now. (apart from some road-noise that Dynamat panels could reduce)

search and ye shall find! Often it is the cabin temp sensor that is unplugged or faulty. It's behind the little grille in the dash facia. Check some stereo installation guides on how to remove your facia. Cleaning the sensor often works, and if you search, you'll find a guide on what combo of buttons to press on your A/C unit that will show you what actual temperatures your sensors are reading. If the sensor thinks it's 20 degrees inside, it won't pump more cold air in... even though it's closer to 30 degrees inside. The diagnostics method is the way to have a look at that info.

Nah... unless you can reach through the speaker holes, you can't get through to the boot like that. It shouldn't half open unless something is jamming the arms that the boot swivels on. There is only one latch that holds it shut. As for the loose handle, it's possible that the wire has come loose... If you have a look under the carpet, you should see how to adjust it. (or pull it with a pair of pliers until the boot opens) Carpet... carefully pry one side of the skyline door-sill up, then move your hands across, and unclip the next etc etc. From there, you can unhook the side of the carpet and have a better look at the mechanism. I've heard of people drilling the lock out and replacing it when they were stuffed. I guess you really don't want to do that, so check the cable tension first. =-]

Sounds about right man. Try doing about 50k's in an 80 zone in 3rd or 4th, then put the boot in. You should see the boost go straight up, without breaking any speed limits.

My mate (SteveGTS4 on here) showed me his when the front bar was off. Whoever installed them (in Japan) had to cut the support bar to get them in. Very messy looking job! Note: he drives a GTR.

I have them on mine. The caliper is literally a millimeter (or less) away from the centre of the wheel. Might want to check that there is nothing on the rim that can touch. Look for wear marks? Failing that, the noise sounds exactly like when I get a small stone or rock stuck in the tread. Rotate the tyres one by one until you've checked the surface of them all. =-]

Stock boost under 4500rpm is 5psi and 7psi over that. So 7 on the guage is 7000mmHg or whatever the multiple is, which is about 1 bar I think? So you should see about halfway between 0 and 7 when on full boost.

Spark plugs? oil filter, fuel filter. All those little things while you're at it. Change oil and coolant... gearbox oil... Change the water and alternator belts while you're at it.

Stephen, long motor comes with accessories bolted onto it. Pretty much a complete motor. Short motor is usually the head, block, manifolds... just the actual motor itself. No A/C, no power steering, no alternator....

My LCD monitor has warranty on dead pixels. (over 7 dead I think)... but Josh is pretty right, those kinds of LCD's probably won't ever be covered for dead pixels. So.. if you have too many dead pixels and it gets annoying, kill your screen. ;op

424? What pressure were they being tested with?

Have you checked the "interior illumination" fuse yet? I'd say you might be shorting somewhere in that new boost guage dude. Remove the wiring, then change the fuse, and leave it like that until you can check it out. Best to use a multimeter when doing ANYTHING electrical, in my opinion. Strap the red wire on, with everything off, and then do a continuity test. If you use the multimeter on the red wire at the boost-guage end, and then use the black multimeter wire and touch part of the body, it shouldn't beep. Then put the red multimeter wire on the black wire to the boost guage, and the black multimeter wire to the body of the car, and it SHOULD beep... that tells you that you are testing on a good earth spot.

And a slightly tidier, edited pic.

Argh! Thankyou! I was going to say "but it stopped working on my laptop for no apparent reason"... so I had another shot at fixing it. FIXED! Yay! I can use it on my lappy again! Stupid NSFASTKY.INI file got removed from my windows\ directory. How odd!

I think you could poken it as much as you want! As long as it's not with something sharp. The top layer is probably quite similar to PDA's and tablet PC's... and my PDA took a lot of pokens with a pointy stick! If it's got a year warranty, i'm sure they'd have to honour dead pixels or a dead screen as a result of "normal" use.... and poekenening the screen with a finger is how they designed it. Go for it!

Holy old post, Batman!