RANDY

lol! Good work!

i got my timing belt from Nissan for ~$80, and both bearings from Bearing Industries or something (thread on SAU with contact details, and the guy knows exactly what you need) for under $100 for both of them.

Co-incidentally I have just done this today! I don't see any mention of the half-moon rubbers that should really be replaced. You highlighted and said to put goo around that area, which is correct. (or goo the half-moons before you put them in). Anyhoo, they're a seperate part number, and apparently these motors leak from there before they leak from the gasket, so while you're already there: 7. use a pair of needle-nose pliers to gently lift the old half-moon rubber from the back of the rocker assembly. Coat all outside edges of the new half-moon with gasket goo before reinserting.

lol! more power than what you lose by running the A/C compressor? =-o In any case, I always thought a hotter fuel is easier to combust. I think the R33's have water lines running towards the plenum somewhere to heat the fuel up.. mainly for cold days. That's just what I read somewhere. Hot motor + cold air = power.

Hot = expand? I did mine cold, with a little bit of that pener-8 stuff to lubricate the rusted area. If you are quite confident, you can get a socket and ratchet, cut off the old o2 sensor wire, and provided your socket is long enough, you can get onto it with an extension. From there, torque is your friend!

haha! I'm so JUST behind you! I spent the best part of today and yesterday with a mate taking all the old and broken exhaust manifold studs out... when the turbo goes back on, my 3" turbo back system will go in. Then our mods are identical. (apart from suspension and brakes I spose) I think if you are inhaling more air, with the stock fuel maps, you are getting a better air/fuel ratio, so it doesn't dip as low as before? Am I understanding that right, everyone? If you're forcing 2psi more air into the mix, the mix is leaner? I always hear of people making around 200rwkw and getting the same fuel consumption as me... but then if their mixtures are better and it makes more power because of it, then they'd use about the same amount of fuel until they start adjusting it with aftermarket fuel computers. God.. I hope we finish my car tomorrow! got oil, gearbox oil, split dump, cat-back left to put in.

I'd back Mad082's suggestions... 1 Hi Flo Cat - definately. Should have been done with the dump and zorst. 2 Boost Controller (put it on 13 - 14 psi) - Not that high. 10-12 max on stocker. 3 Then Fuel Pump - shouldn't need a tune to have it running. 4 Cam Gears / Shaft - without tuning the gears. Can do that after PFC. 5 Then power FC - Ready to tune the below mods, which won't run nicely without modifying maps/timing. 6 Then Injectors - PFC can adjust for those. You would already have the fuel pump in to deliver the pressure to the injectors 7 stainless manifold / Z32 AFM - AFM will need the PFC to adjust for it. 3: Advance the Timing - Gotta see knock and have the PFC tuned for manually advancing the timing/cam gears.

Happened to a mate of mine. AFM died while he was out for a few hours. Consult see's that it's there, but you can't start the engine for long enough to check the flow/voltage readings. I can't remember if I unplugged it or left it plugged in, but I started it with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, and it ran VERY lumpily! Couldn't rev past 3K, but it was enough to clutch 1st and 2nd to get it back to his house. Another AFM in, and it works a charm again.

It's on!

Ah yeah.. i've posted in several of these threads... different earth on HU, bigger earth, short cable. Different earth on amp, bigger earth, short cable, resistance check with multimeter. Power filter on amp, same deal. Swapped RCA cables, ran cables outside the car... I gave up on the idea in the end. It was the first time i'd ever amp'd speakers, so I just went back to amping the sub on its own like I have in my previous cars. Whine goes up with revs, yeah. Alternator noise. If I hold the RCA's closer to the yellow plug behind the HU, it gets louder. I routed it as far out of the way as possible, but it was still quite loud. It didn't affect the rears, or if I swapped RCA cables (front for rear) then the rears would cop it more than the fronts. I think my HU earthing for the RCA's is shot... it's the only thing I haven't been able to properly fix.

doesn't rev like the accelerator pedal is not connected? Or tries to and can't? Did you line up the belt markings with the marking on the cover etc etc? I don't know if putting the intake and exhaust cams out of whack would produce that effect or not...

So when I ran my speakers off an amp, (tried two new amps) the fronts were making the whine. Headunit off or not, the whine was there. Changed cables and everything, and my crossovers are only for the fronts, and they are in the doors, well away from any power wiring. =-/

Sounds more like the whole pane of glass has gone lop-sided! Might want to check the bottom of the window guides to make sure the bottom of the glass is fairly flush with the bracket.

Exactly how Monkey just said... might as well follow the other cables through the hole.

yeah, the soft furry pads should stop the tint from being scratched. It sound like yours is running on bare metal or the plastic that the pads stick to.

I'm in Sydney, and might have one available in a week or so. PM if interested.

Also, there is often the same bolts at the bottom of the glass, that clamp the window regulator to the glass. Additionally, sometimes (prolly not on the Skyline) there is one more bolt for the frame of the window regulator on the inside part of the door. The part that closes to the b-pillar... roughly where the door-lock mechanism is. Few more tips? While you're adjusting those things, take them right out, and clean the furry pad... next time you clean your windows and wind them up and down, you won't get dirty streaks across the glass. (or if the pad is missing, you can replace it). While the door-trim is off, have a look at the hangar part. Up inside the top of the doortrim. It hangs on the window ledge. The metal parts in the doortrim rattle against the metal of the door. Get some furry sides of velcro, and stick them on the metal parts that face the door. That stops more metal rattling sound.

nice! Pretty handy work for "some wood I found lying around"! I raised my floor up a bit just to have a flat surface for my single sub box, and it's not as tidy as yours! How on earth did you cut the wood out to the curves of the boot lining so neatly?? And why is your friend licking the cables!? ;op *bzzzzt!* "I found the 12 volt feed!"

It's definately coolant, and not A/C water that's fallen after condensing on the pipes?

I'll second that... when you get a leaf in that grille, and it falls into the fan motor (up behind the glovebox, usually), that's where the leaf ends up flapping around on the fan blades. From there, actuators in the heaterbox direct air through the heater core or around it, depending on the temperature you set and what the actual temperature is.

Yer... the other two drivers were trying to race on a wet road, the evo was drifting. Still, that was awesome to watch!

lol! You know there's about 5 dudes sitting infront of their pc's right now going "Man! I thought that was too obvious to mention!" ;op I was kinda getting at the connection thing though... assuming the contacts were clean, I thought they just weren't touching. Turns out they weren't touching because they had old cigarette all over them! lol Glad to hear you got it sorted though!

Calsonic are just the standard replacements, right? If so, then the aluminium radiators are definately going to be more expensive. I second the re-core idea. Shouldn't cost too much. $200? It's gotta be done, unless you source a used one that doesn't leak... for a while at least.

Sounds like different setups... even though the motor is the same, a cam, timing, air intake temp, spark, fuel.. they should all make torque differences. I'd imagine, as Nismoid suggests, that if I dyno'd my car at 7, and then at 10, the curve should be exactly the same up until the boost goes over 7, at which point the first run would have the wastegate open and stop the car from really making any more boost. 2nd run at 10psi would see more boost, and the actuator open later, as more pressure is built up. The leadup to the wastegate opening shouldn't be any different. The ECU/car doesn't know when the boost is going to be dumped out the wastegate, so nothing else should change before that happens. Still.. that's what i'd assume from theory, and i'm keen to see any results! (obviously same car, same day, same setup would be the only fair test) EDIT: hmm... so... if that was confirmed, then possibly the wastegate actuator spring could be a culprit? A guy running more boost may have put in a harder spring, to better match the desired boost pressure, and therefore it holds boost better. Another bloke runs his standard setup on higher boost, and perhaps some of the pressure is lost through the wastegate because it's not holding as well as a stiffer spring. That's the only thing that I can think of that might explain it.

They come up occasionally on ebay, but otherwise HPI make an RS4 micro, with an R34 shell. They're about the same size. Available locally, plenty of hop-ups...etc etc. But if you go down the road of a 1:10th RC drifter, there's plenty more options and cheaper parts. Essentially you're going to need the same radio gear, batteries, charger etc.