RANDY

I'd imagine that it wouldn't show boost. All the consult programs around cannot display it because it isn't wired into the consult plug/loom. I'd imagine that this unit will do everything that the Apexi I-Moni does. I just can't decide which one to get!

Hmmm... I might be able to find someone for it. =-]

Nah, standard RB25 has Mitsubishi. Don't know about R32's though, they have a different spring rate, and people swap them into Rb25's quite often.

I think all the RB's have them? Haven't seen many posts about them playing up though....

Yes, the laptop is the other way. I'm still holding onto my old one to do just this... if I ever get around to it. As said above, the problem with starting it up and shutting it down is a pain. I'm pretty sure you could wire some cables to the contacts on the motherboard, and then run them to the front of the car to the button, but it's going to be a hassle to shut it down everytime you leave the car. Anyway, you've gone from super-expensive graphics card full PC's to using a broken laptop. Everything has already been done before, you just need to work out which way you want to do it. =-]

Dunno about rails, but you've obviously lowered the chair as far as it will go? I'm 5'11 and almost touch the roof, so I can imagine that you've done that just to fit in the car WITHOUT a helmet. ;o)

The popular option is a 300-400 watt special PSU that runs a direct 12v feed into a PC setup. If you search google for "carputer", you'll find US sites dedicated to these kinds of installs. Anyway, the PSU has a built-in power-off delay that automatically shuts your windows pc down when the ignition is turned off. I think that's more important than getting a really beefy PSU and trying to run crazy parts. Touchscreens are USB, so you just need to get one of those and some extension cables. PSU we talked about. Sound... you can do 3.5mm stereo minijack (soundcard) to RCA cables into some input of your head unit, or the same into an amp which then runs your speakers. Not all HU's have RCA inputs, usually only outputs. If you REALLY want to run a full-sized PC with ATI/nvidia GPU's and multiple SATA/IDE 3.5" disks, DVDROM, and stuff like that, then you'll just need to buy a really powerful inverter from JayCar. I'm pretty sure they do up to 500-600watt. That takes 12v to 240v (PSU) and then your PSU converts it back to 12v.. Seems like a waste though. A small-form factor case and MB with built in video, sound, WLAN, USB etc with a notebook HDD and DVDROM can run off a 200watt and still play movies and render graphics etc... Only reason I could see you needing a powerful GPU is if you want to actually play PC games in your car... but with a touchscreen monitor that would be pretty hard anyway.

I didn't read anywhere that the car was tuned? It was just a dyno run wasn't it?

lol.. what a knobjockey! As someone said, he hassles everything in the carpark. If it's stock, he says the owner should have spent money modding. If it's modded with an intercooler and turbo, he says it's slow. Most of those cars are pretty quick!

Looks like the optional foglight plug. Often tied up out of the way if your car wasn't optioned with foggies.

As discussed on phone, I will take the twin muffler

Good job! Might want to copy-paste this in the DIY area for the mods to approve?

lol! Yes, i've gotten it wrong twice now. But you can be flattered that you and Mearcat are the only two names that I remember on SAU. ;o)

I hate that yellow oil stuff that some manufacturers put in their chamois'. I had one that wouldn't wash out for months! Left oily dots all over the car, and it always looked terrible. Might have to try a Maguire's synthetic one? I thought that's the one I was complaining about, but i'll check.

lol... if someone could write it into their consult software, i'd pay for it! Was it you or Mearcat that was working on the software? One of you terribly smart guys were! Three things I want to see, but my car doesn't allow me to: Knock Intake air temp AFR's (wideband) I'm working on the air temp thing, with a thermocouple and compression gland, then i'll get an SAFC2 for knock readouts... the wideband part is just expensive. Dunno.

Mate... could I get a pic of the twin muffler if it's off the car? I have a nismo 3" catback without rear muffler, and if yours fits, i'll take it 100%. My mid-section isn't stainless though, so I don't know if the bends are any different. Please PM me with reply/pics. (i'll be asleep till 2pm Tuesday)

Check the for sale area. I have seen a couple in there recently.

No problem, as such. The series 2 ECU has the ignitor built into it, whereas the series 1 motors have the ignitor bolted over the back of the coilpack cover. 2) Check FS area! =-]

My mechanic (and now from my own experiences) recommends BP Ultimate and Mobil Synergy 8000.

I have heard that Nismo exhausts come in 3"? I have bought a 3" mid-section that I was told was Nismo. I've heard they are quiet, but i'm also keen to know how much more flow you can gain from a noisier exhaust.

What points does yours fluctuate between ? If I start my car and don’t touch the throttle the gauge skips between 10 and 15. So what is my actual timing? 10, 15 or somewhere in between? >well.. it's variable inlet cam timing, so it's both, and intbetween. Mine does average around the 10 mark from memory. I'll have to plug the laptop back in and check. Do you know at what point in degrees C it kicks in? Nope, like I said, you'd probably have to wait for a hot day to see it come on. What the A/C relay? >Air Conditioning. Turn your A/C on, and consult should know about it. It's just a good diagnostic thing to check if your A/C stops working suddenly. Is this supposed to always be on or does it turn on at certain point? Because mine says its off at idle but haven’t looked at it whilst boostn >Power Steering? Turn the wheel a little bit on the spot, and it should show as "on". The engine may rev up a little.. that's what the sensor is for. Same with A/C... should rev up a bit to account for the extra load. My first car (VK Commy) worked all that off vacuum lines. One day that particular line had a split in it, so when I used A/C it would stall. I thought it was very strange how that worked. That’s a shame......is there any consult software out there that does display some sort of knock reading from the stock microphone? No, the ECU doesn't spit the info back out to the consult port, so no software can drag it out via consult. SAFC2's can be wired in to display knock.

Umm.... Your timing will fluctuate with revs, that's normal. It doesn't jump too wildly at idle for me. closed TPS. Closed Throttle Body Position Sensor. The sensor knows when the throttle body is closed, but closed loop should probably operate up to 2000rpms anyway. When driving over that, the 02 sensor still reads and sees the ratios, but the ECU doesn't use them.. it switches to the fuel maps. Thermo fan... haven't tried tricking it on, but with hot weather and the A/C running, it will eventually come on. Hold out for a few days until it's REALLY hot. The rest, depending on which software you're using, is just good for checking your motor now and then. Injector timing and pulse width, water temps and stuff like that. GTR's have an intake air temp sensor, which is nice to look at. We don't have it though. The rest is self-explanatory, and mostly for diagnosing. A/C relay on/off Fuel pump on/off Power steering on/off etc etc. You can stuff around with the timing too... although that could be risky biz without having some kind of knock-sensor readout. (we have knock sensors, but consult doesn't display them)

I'll second that idea! Coil/spring thing should probably heat up the fuel entering the chamber. I think some of the RB's have the water lines running around the throttle body to heat up the fuel... do the RB20's not have that perhaps?

Yeah, i'd say get the timing back to normal. The timing changes all the time with our motors (RB25DET), because we have VCT. I think the stock ECU can only retard or advance so much? I guess that would mean that if it needs to pull it back a lot, it can't go about 3 degrees as much when you set it 3 degrees advanced. I'm sure someone's going to ask for more info too... might want to list ALL the mods? A tuner told my mate that his cat was holding it back at high RPM's... it couldn't flow enough, so it was causing some flat spot up around that 6000rpm area. The rest of the exhaust was 3" with dumps (32 GTR).

I heard about this from my gf the day it happened, and I didn't quite beleive it. I know they can strap a car on an empty airfield, and pilot a boat-car... and run a rally 4wd through some snow... stuff like that... but I really couldn't beleive that the shows producers would allow him to drive a land-speed record car at those kinds of speeds. Great for the show, and i'm sure lots of people would love to do it, but I really didn't think that he would be allowed in any shape or form to take such big risks. Poor guy. I've been hanging for season 9 to start airing. =-[