RANDY

If you can afford a decent powersupply, you can just use that to power your existing amp. 240v -> 12v

Alrighty. Pics are up, post is tidied. =-]

Yeah, they're coming. I submitted the post first, incase it timed out while I was tidying and uploading... but I didn't realise that the mods have to approve it before it shows up. The whole thing disappeared on me. There is a sticky which doesn't sound helpful, but has helpful information within it about how the process works.

It's been done before, but i'll share my method of mounting the resistor (neater) and also show you what the A/C unit could/should look like. 01) For reference, this is the lighting in the room. Camera set to 1/20th second, f2.6. 02) This is what a stock globe with blue silicone cap looks like The silicone cap takes away the orange of the bulb, and makes it a soft blue/white. 03) This is what the standard globe looks like without the blue cap on. If you broke the cap, it won't light up white. It lights up a horrid orange. 04) This is a 30,000mcd 5mm LED. Sweeeeet. Looks like my hazard button! 05a) Firstly, remove the A/C unit. Same as changing your head unit. Easy done. You can see both of the globe bezels on the back in white. 1/8th turn with a flathead screwdriver will do the job. Turn it upside down and shake a little... 05b) And out pops your globe! The two wires at the front touch the contacts in the A/C unit... they wrap around from the back. 06) The back is where the wires from the globe poke out, and get wrapped around to the front. 07) Pick at the ends until you have them up, then unwrap the legs till they're straight enough to go through the holes they sit in. 08) Remove your old/dead globe. 09) If you are replacing your globe for another standard "grain of wheat" globe, then this is the tricky bit. The globe can be bought from Dick Smiths (online too) P8140 is the product number. OK... tricky bit. Use a *really* small flathead screwdriver, or my preferred option, a needle to unbind the silicone cap from the globe. It doesn't show here, but the blue cap has a darker ring on the inside, about 1/3rd of the way from the tip. This is where the glue was applied to hold the cap onto the globe. Using the pin, hold the tip onto the glass, and slide it inside the silicone cap. Keep the angle of the pin at at least 15 degrees, otherwise you might poke a hole through the end of the cap! Keep sliding it in and out, jabbing the glue-ring until it doesn't look darker anymore. This means the glue has seperated from the globe. Carefully, try to push the end of the cap towards the tip... the whole thing should slide off. If you pull from the tip, you risk tearing the silicone. 10) For those who want LED-action, here is one of the 5mm LEDs that I used. It is the brightest 5mm LED you can buy ($5 each), and the extra fat negative leg could be an issue. You could drill out the hole in the globe holder to make it fit in futher, but I did a test-fit first, with the whole of the LED just outside the holder, and it still went in and screwed into the A/C unit... so I just left it like that. Less work you see. ;o) Specs: * 5mm * 30,000mcd * 3.6 typical volt-drop * 75mA typical 11) Shove it in, and bend the negative (shorter) leg into its groove to hold the LED in place. 12) Depending on the LED you use, the resistor value will have to be calculated. This is 120ohms... The last stripe denotes the tolerance in watts. Gold and silver are typical. Knowing that much, you know to read from left to right, with the gold or silver last. This is brown-red-brown, gold. That's 120ohms of resistance, which will heat up a bit. Depending on the LED you choose, the values will change. I could have run this LED at 100mA (milli-amps) if I wanted to.. this particular LED can handle higher, but the "typical" values are probably the best to stick to. Use this calculator with the LED specs: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz Resistors don't have a polarity, so you can mount the resistor either way round, on the positive leg of the LED. 13a) Stick the resistor into the groove on the side of the positive leg. 13b) And bend the top to meet the positive leg of the LED. Other guides have the resistor mounted flush with the holder, but I don't like this idea for two reasons. One, it gets in the way of the screwdriver slot, and secondly, it looks like it could move around. From the screwdriver slot, one side is positive, and one is negative... you don't want one to touch the other. Also, the resistor can/will heat up quite a bit, so I didn't want it to be touching anything. 14) Solder the resistor to the positive leg of the LED. With the right-angle bend on the resistor, and the rigidity of the LED leg, this rectangular shape is quite hard to bend. It shouldn't touch anything where it is. 15) Trim the legs with a pair of side-cutters after you have bent the leg and resistor into their grooves. Chop the ends to the right length to end perfectly in the groove. 16) Test-fit your new LED globe! As you can see, it gets close to the side of the plastic in the hole... but that's not a problem at all. If anything, this mounting method should provide good heat-dissipating properties to the resistor. (they get quite hot to the touch) If you have a powersupply or even a 9 volt battery and some alligator clips, test your LED before you actually install it. Remember to only use the front of the holder for the contact points. This is before the resistor! Doing it from the back might work, or it might completely blow out the LED. On a 9v battery it may be fine to test an LED without a resistor for a few seconds, but just don't chance it if you're using $5 LED's. 17) Here is your other view of the top of the resistor, it doesn't even poke out the top of the hole, so you can be assured that it won't be touching anything behind the dash. Another note on putting these back in. An LED is a Light Emitting Diode. The keyword is diode... represented on circuit diagrams as: ->|- Diodes allow current to travel one way, but not the other. The direction of the ">" symbol denotes the direction of flow. Anyway, the important thing about this is that if you put the LED setup in your A/C unit the wrong way round, it won't blow up or anything. You just unscrew it, rotate it 180 degrees, and screw it in again. This time, it should work. Well anyway, step 18 will come with another photo once I get round to pulling it all apart again and putting these into my actual (working) A/C unit. The unit I have used for this guide is just a dead one I have sitting around.

That first pic at the top of the page shows a pushed in hat? It looks like the top is intact, but where it joins the rest of the BOV seems to be in more?

1x RB25 blue please

Man.. I was tired that night. Anti-skid is ABS. Don't know what I was thinking (or not reading). If you have ABS, you'll have an ABS module with pipes coming out of it on the drivers side near the firewall in the engine bay.

So the above mod is to reduce the chances of boost leak at higher levels of boost, right? Squashing the hat down to put more pressure on the spring, and relocating the recirculation hole. And mad082's link shows how to block just the recirculation hole to retain a bit of pressure and theoretically make the turbo not work as hard. So can I ask: What is the recirculation hole there for in the first place? What benefit (relilability?) did Nissan/Mitsubishi have in mind when they designed it?

Do I get points for being REALLY damn close? ;op

looks standard. EDIT: You'd have to measure the diameter of the pipe on the flange. Drop the cat-back section from the cat and measure. If you have a 3" exhaust, you'd think the cat was changed too. If not, change it! anti-skid is for traction control. I think you only have that if you have an active diff. It's an option in R33's, dunno about 32's. heater dunno A/T would be for an auto I guess? If it doesn't have fuses in it, and everything works with no warnings on the dash, then it's probably meant to be like that. You could also check with a flashlight whether there are even metal contacts in the blank spots... although sometimes a common wiring loom is used across different models in the same range.

LOOF, where about are you on the NB? There are quite a few of us on the Northern Beaches that can probably lend a hand installing things or whatnot. (cruises even) PM me if you want my recommendation on a mechanic in Brookvale.

failing that, disconnect the AFM and then start it up with half throttle. If that works, you have a dead AFM. Turn it off afterwards, cause you shouldn't run it for long like that.

I made a new one out of 12mm MDF from Bunnings, with brackets to make the right-hand side bend... Got loooong bolts and nuts to suit. Haven't fitted it, probably never will. You would have to squeeze your hand over the top of it to hold the nut or bolt, depending on which way round you start it. Then, it's so damn heavy, that putting it up with an amp on it is probably going to break the factory brackets for the stock cover. I don't want to drill holes or mount anything permanent, so this idea is kinda out of the window for me. =-[ I went and bought a smaller amp, which sits next to the battery, but try this idea if you like; If you have a rear strut-brace, mount your amp with (thick) cable ties or some kind of clamp system. Hooks bolted through the screwholes of the amp might even do. (removeable amp). Then make holes (for cable ties) or a bigger hole (for hook idea) so that you can mount your amp onto the strut-brace after the battery cover is in place. Only thing to look out for is whether the bottom of the amp is going to be so heavy that it swings inwards and bends the battery cover thing.

But the sensor was reading correctly when you did the diag? My pipe was off for a while, but the sensor is screwed onto the dash plastic, so surely it'd still read the ambient cabin temp? Oh well... give the sensor a clean and hook up the pipe and see what happens?

If you search, it'll come up a few times. Ticking is some gear/motor (fan blower box) thing that is broken.

series 1 or 2?

series 1 or 2? gtst or gts? Ta!

You can GET vacuum sealed rooms!? =-D Oh... =-[ Well, sky, everyone is going to tell you to get a really good alarm and immobiliser. I think most Skylines are at risk of being stolen, if the time and the place is right for a theif. An R33 GTST might not be worth as much as a WRX, and I don't think people will take it from you at gunpoint, but that's what insurance is for. GTR's, however... I've read so many threads about R32 GTR's and above being swiped that it's just amazing. (and sad). Most of the owners didn't have any kind of alarm, and one was even taken from a residential secure parking facility. (on camera!) Carjackings are one thing, and rare, and general security is another. If you get rear-ended, wait for them to get out first. If it looks too dicey, call the police and do the runner if necessary. Always always get the best possible alarm package that you can afford. Rims and neon lights or whatnot should be a 2nd priority. =-]

Ah yeah, you added some greasing to the steps ;o)

Patrick... yes I think so. If it should only come out of one, but it still comes out of feet, it would follow that the feet flap is stuck open. So when you go for cold air there, it's still letting air flow past the heater core and out the feet vent. It's hard to say definately because i'm going by what i've read, and your A/C doesn't work? You say it's hot air without A/C on, which should mean that the flap isn't moving towards the outside air pipe and is stuck on the heater-core pipe. So i'm assuming that if you put A/C on, it's still going to come out quite hot.

Oh crumb! Let us know how you go!

If it's what I think it is (very old), it's that little car with two steering columns? They drive around crab-walking everywhere.

That's terrible! They seriously throw stuff at you? Well, I know what you're saying about the night-works, and I have no problems with them but I guess some people have no brains and a short fuse. There are 3 stretches of new road around here (about 100m long) on Warringah Road that are REALLY nice to drive on. I can't even hear my tyres when i'm on the new stuff! =-D As for the patchjobs on the potholes... I really strongly beleive that they could hire one of those push-rollers to flatten the lump from Kennards Hire for $20 and make the lump rather flat and unnoticeable. Most of the time that road doesn't need to be ripped up. It only needs replacing after some council guys dig a whopping huge hole in it then turn it into a minefield of lumps! =-[ But don't get me wrong mate, I appreciate contractors and council workers that do the hard work and make things better... I don't want to make generalisations, i'm just saying that SOME of those guys seem like they really don't give a stuff. Heh... interesting idea. I might take some video with my camera strapped to the dashboard or something and send it in to the RTA, then claim new suspension back on tax.

Skygtts is on the money there I think. The cabin air-temp thing has been covered before, but if your A/C sensors are reading correct temps for the cabin, then it shouldn't try to make it hotter. Suction sees 43 degrees, then it should be pumping normal outside air in (without A/C on). It's trying, but the flap is diverting it onto the heater core, which is where the heat is coming from. So, if that's all fine, then i'd suggest that the metal rod that controls the flap for the feet has fallen off. That would leave the heat from the heater core pumping out. I think someone put up a DIY or just a pic on how to reach it from the drivers footwell, then you can just clip it back in place. Do some searches for that?

Hm! That's something i've been meaning to look into. Mine have worn through much like yours have. I'll look it up in FAST when i'm home, and see if there is a kit or part number for this.