RANDY

Well... I completely agree that our cars will ride firmer than the average sedan. And I always tell myself that to calm my road road-rage down. I still don't think we (NSW in particular) should be paying top dollar for road fees, just to have council workers to crummy repair jobs. If it was something I personally contracted someone to do, I wouldn't pay them until they got it right. Unfortunately it doesn't work like that, and we're going to pay and get whatever quality of road they feel like giving us. Replacing a big hole with a big mound is NOT a repair, in my books. Digging up the road to access a pipe/conduit and then throwing loose gravel ontop is also NOT a repair. It's a patch-job. Roads with too much camber, roads with drains and manholes in them, roads that change surface and join horribly, are all very "dark ages" to me. I guess it's a small step from the old roads that horses and carts travelled on, but I maintain that we are going to look back in 20 years and laugh at the roads we are driving on today. Oh... I have more to get off my chest! Pedestrian crossings! Why the HELL do they put them IMMEDIATELY before and after roundabouts? There are enough traffic accidents on roundabouts as it is, without throwing in pedestrians into the mix. Part 2 for pedestrian crossings... Why do they paint them in white glossy paint? You know the stuff.. the really really slippery stuff that you can spin your wheels on by accident? Yeah.. if you had to stop suddenly for some kid riding his bike at speed through the crossing in the wet, you recken cars would stop quicker on that shiny white stuff? Power poles apparently lead to more deaths in car accidents than anything else... the parts of Queensland that i've seen have all the power lines running under the ground (under the footpath, not the road). I'm sure this would lead to less deaths if you go by the statistics? Couldn't Sydney Electricity just order the poles in a thinner diameter? Something that is designed to break if hit with that sort of force? I went through one once, and it was rotten at the base... I think that's what saved me actually. I think I swear the most when i'm driving... and it's not road-rage at other motorists, it's everytime I hit a bump or pothole.

Neg on price? How loud would you say it is.. on a scale of 1 (stock) to 10 (no exhaust)? And why are you selling it? Feel free to PM me! Cheers! -Steve

*cough*... yes... 1.2 meter fan is the answer! Heh... 120mm fan.

I have the same as nsanity. My new amp is the JayCar precision 4x100, and it barely gets warm. My old amp had a fan built in. I think you should check your power wiring or something... for it to heat up that badly during winter/spring you must have a slight short that is creating resistance/heat to the amp. Something like that. Failing this, perhaps mount a big 120cm fan behind the battery cover off a relay that uses the remote wire. Could even mount it to the battery cover bit with a hole to draw in the air in the boot? Make another hole further towards the battery for air to come back out again, and you'd be at least circulating a bigger volume of air. EDIT: when you get a new amp, check your wiring (+ and - ) with a multimeter. Make sure you get 13.8 or 14v positive and negative with the car off. Test again with the car on?

LOL! You have three threads open for this! I have replied in the other thread titled the same thing, not the HKS turbo timer one. Original: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=134054 My reply: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=134345 I don't think the mods (even members?) appreciate people opening multiple threads for one thing? Might want to keep an eye on that cause they'll prolly get closed.

heh.. I just found the rest of someone else's install and removed it the other day. Positive was spliced off the ciggy lighter light-bulb. Negative was from the handbrake. This was in my R33, so I dunno if the R32's are going to be the same, but usually it's the grounding wire that shorts to the body to complete the circuit for the handbrake light on the dash. So I guess it's unshorted when the handbrake is off? I can't remember now. That wouldn't make sense, because that would mean the boost guage light would turn off when the handbrake is off? Oh well, whatever, the black (and only) cable to the handbrake was tapped into for some reason. EDIT: I would have assumed that you would just take positive from the ciggy lighter light, and ground off anywhere on the chassis. That way the backlight would come on when you turn your headlights on. EDIT 2: Oh! But this is for a timer, not a guage... so maybe that's what it wants.. when the handbrake is on, it activates something in the timer. In which case, yes... go for that black wire and tap into it.

I think in theory it would work, and give a little more. This kind of trick has been done many many times before though. In my last car (V8 VP Berlina), you could just relocate the intake air temp sensor to the airbox, and the ECU would think that the air is cooler on the way in. It's not a smart move though.... i'm sure someone can tell you the possible risks from doing this. More ignition advance, on a hot day, more detonation? Or more fuel on a hot day = more preignition? It's like soldering a resistor inline with your AFM... tricking the ECU and forcing different values.

Man... that thing sounds like it's going to rip yer head off! So.... what 1/4 time have you pulled? Pretty keen to know!

Hehe... posted here a year ago? This is good though, cause when I want to show someone, it takes forever to find it via the search. Now it's fresh! (plus I bet a lot of new people haven't seen it yet) EDIT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=force-dynamics

yeah, saw the issues list. Nothing definitive though. From memory it was all activex controls and stuff like that.

SK recommends 50% metho 50% turps, I beleive?

You read correct!

My Nissan FAST stopped working. Just wondering if anyone with XP service pack 2 can confirm if they have the update KB918899 in their add/remove list, AND has fast still working?

yer.. I don't think you can swap coilpacks between R32 and R33 series 1 even? Dunno.

But the R33 stock solanoid only gives you 7psi above 4500. 5psi under that. Anyway, definately get that manual one off the SAU guy. It's tops!

Ermm.. from memory it's somewhere up the back of the inlet manifold. Near the throttle body. Do some searching, cause someone wrote up a tutorial on how to do it. (in the tutorials area)

Pssst... under the bonnet ;o) What coils did you change them to? It really sounds like the old coilpack problem.

hehe! OK! Type M it is! So FAST says I have a gts25tm1, which i'm assuming is Type-M I, not II... which has the following options: "Front spoiler, Rear window wiper, Anti-lock braking system, Navigation system, Ultraviolet reducing glass, Tinted windows" I have the front spoiler, but does that include the skirts and rear pods? It seems that if you have one, you have them all? Got wiper and UV glass (I think)

If I remember tomorrow, i'll take pics of the bolt-locations =-]

Don't need piccies! Bottom of rear seat has two bolts, on the side of the footwells, can't miss them) Push the bottom-seat down around the seatbelt area, and you'll see a bolt on each side holding the back-seat in. Undo those. Back-seat goes up to unhook, bottom seat goes forwards and up (it's hooked to the back-seat)

I didn't quite follow what you wanted to do... Did you get the rest of the broken antenna out? I did this twice on other model cars, and I don't know if it will be the same but i'll tell you how I did it incase it helps. (this is done without removing the antenna motor assembly out of the car) 1) Remove the rest of the dead antenna mast. Pull it up with a pair of pliers while a friend turns the radio on. The motor should push most of the rest out. 2) New mast has a long rope on it, feed as much as you can into the hole while the radio is still on. (HU thinks antenna is up) 3) Have your friend turn the radio off, and you keep pushing the rope in. The motor should grab the rope and pull the mast into the assembly. 4) Done. It took me all of 30 minutes to work that out and get it done on my last car. The proper/safe way is to remove the motor assembly out of the car (via the boot), strip the assembly open, remove old and replace with new. If your new mast doesn't physically fit in the assembly, then you've got the wrong one.

Umm.... partially correct? That should be the stock map sensor for the ECU? I guess it also goes to the stock boost guage?

I beleive the cold-start revs is governed by the IACV? Idle Air Control Valve... although i've seen people mention cleaning the AAC valve is the go. AFM shouldn't affect the idle when cold I don't think... but funnily enough, when my mate changed his AFM, the car idled at around 2000rpm no matter what. He took it in for a service, and the mechanic adjusted a few things (AAC valve I think), and now it's perfect.

No worries! I've only seen the unit a couple of times while I was being nosey in a mate's 32 GTR... so I don't remember exactly what's plugged into it. It could just be an electrical problem... a loose wire or something? Plenty of people with aftermarket steering wheels have this problem, but i've never read what the fix was. EDIT: Thinking about his futher, (which is hard to do at this hour of the morning) You wouldn't have a blockage... the ECU wouldn't know it. It would have to be a steering-wheel thing, or possibly the low fluid that you were mentioning. Maybe the steering fluid sensor is playing up, or it's not reading correctly (dirty?). I'm assuming the R32's have the HICAS computer under the parcel tray in the boot like the 33's have... so maybe check the harness is plugged in properly too?

Ah right.. if you look on dse.com.au and search for "wheat", it comes up with the correct globe. So it's a case of mistaken identity when you went in and asked for them. So the answer still stands. Grain of wheat for A/C, 12v yellow pigtail for hazard/demister. Brad, you know the answer to this now, but i'll mention it for everyone else... The blue silicone cap (stock) takes the orange glow out of the globe, and makes it a VERY light blue.. almost dead white. When I did the hazard and demister, the demister now lights up a really nice white. I'm doing up a proper guide for the DIY area with a spare A/C unit I picked up. Complete with what it looks like with and without the cap, how it looks with LED, and whatever other combo's I can think of. EDIT: I'm also looking into whether the grain of wheat globes come in different wattages, and what the stock ones are roughly rated at. There is no writing on the stock globe.