RANDY

Dunno. Can you press "random" again for a different option?

Well... a proper flush with the stocker would probably use the best part of 5L. That's all hoses, waterpump, heater core etc etc Twice the size cooler, no idea. Buy 2x5L and keep filling until it's at the top. Then run the car until it's warm and you see air bubbles comingout of the radiator cap... add more if needed. Coolant isn't particularly expensive, so just buy more than you need.

Or, as Chris pointed out once, install a switch for that wire, so you can put the antenna up or down when you need it. Apparently you CAN still buy HU's that DON'T support an electric antenna properly. 4 years ago I bought a Kenwood headunit from Cash Converters. It was 2 years old at the time, and IT still had the right cabling for the antenna. lol

Champion, Dezz!

Ah! I ask because that's your problem. That's the "remote" wire for an amp. It sends out a constant voltage to keep an amp turned on. Using that for an antenna will force the antenna on (up) whenever the HU is on. You need to find your "p.cont" or "ant" wire from the back of the HU. For the speaker thing, I don't quite understand what you're saying or how you hooked the speakers up. Some Tee thing? Switching the + and - usually restores bass to speakers that are "out of phase" from one another. i.e one is pushing while one is pulling, therefore cancelling each other out. This could be worth a try definately.

Ah yeah... That might be for another model. I saw the SLIP (traction) on my mates R33 GTS4... which is not a GTST, as you pointed out. Where in the centre for the "L" version? Instead of HICAS and whatever my other blanked one is?

So what was the HU's wire for the power antenna wire called? As for the speakers, you've checked the fading on the HU, right? Let us know what you have and haven't tried so we can narrow down your options! =-]

Yeah, from what i've read, if everything else has been done correctly, then the only other thing that causes the static and whine is a bad RCA earth. Either you've killed the earth in the amp, or in the HU. It's hard to find out without borrowing someone else's stuff. I'm quite sure my HU is the problem. It had a burt track in the HU, and the amp has changed to a different new unit.

I've flipped the outline image to match it with the dash pic. Seems the Airbag light is LED, and the others are a combination of high and low wattage bulbs. I'm not sure how some of the incandescent globes change to red, but the "A" globes have the blue silicon caps on them. A - High wattage incandescent globe with silicone cap. B - High wattage incandescent globe. "WL" could be LED also? C - Low wattage incandescent globe. D - LED. Seems to be only for the airbag light? I guess you never want that one to fail? E - Same as C? R33 GTST Left: 1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag 1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake Top Center: 1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker Bottom Center: 1 - Blanked | 2 - HICAS Right: 1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine 1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low ================================= R33GTST w/Active Limited Slip Differential Left: 1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag 1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake Top Center: 1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker Bottom Center: 1 - SLIP | 2 - ALSD Right: 1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine 1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low ================================= R33GTS4 Left: 1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag 1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake Top Center: 1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker Bottom Center: 1 - 4WD | 2 - SLIP (need to confirm 1/2) Right: 1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine 1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low ================================= R33 GTR Left: 1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag 1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake Top Center: 1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker Bottom Center: 1 - 4WD Right: 1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine 1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low ================================= R33 GTR V-Spec Left: 1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag 1 - blank | 2 - Fuel low | 3 - ABS | 4 - Hand Brake Top Center: 1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker Bottom Center: 1 - 4WD | 2 - SLIP (need to confirm 1/2) Right: 1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine 1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low ================================= Glossary: Door Open Air Bag - Failure or testing. Fuel Low - Sender reports low fuel level. ABS - Anti-skid Braking System failure or testing. Hand Brake - (on R32 models, this can also mean that your brake fluid reservoir is low) Left Blinker High Beams - Not related to fog/spotlights. Right Blinker 4WD - GTR/GTS4 4WD Attessa system failure or testing. HICAS - Four wheel steering failure or testing SLIP - Active LSD Traction Control on at testing and on when traction loss ALSD - Active Limited Slip Differential failure or testing Seat Belt - Drivers seatbelt only Check Engine - Usually means an engine sensor is faulty. Oil Low - Oil level low. Oil pressure is read from the oil pressure guage Cat Temp High - Catalytic converter probe reading above normal temperatures. Battery Low - Output voltage from alternator is lower than normal I will update the others as I find out. If you know the missing ones, please advise!

Bear in mind that the airbag light is only on for about 10 seconds after the ignition gets turned on. I took the photo immediately after turning the ignition on, so that it would light up for the shot.

Soooo... the hazard button is on, so that your indicators even work while you drive? And do your indicators go off when the button is OFF, but the door is open? Sounds like some incorrect wiring man. Should never need to have the hazard button on for your indicators to work!

Oh, that sucks. =-[ I hooked my speakers back up to the headunit today, and now I have no noise whatsoever... =-]

Ah yeah. I have both. The hazy static noise went away when I turned my gains down on the amp though. The whine is still there, and there's just about nothing I can do to get rid of it. I found a blown ground wire for the RCA's in my head unit, repaired that, tested with a multimeter, reinstalled, but it's still there. If I unplug the front set of RCA's, it goes away. Changed cables, swapped front and rear, changed amp. It won't go. Pretty sure it's my headunit that's at fault. So. Turn down your gain. ALL THE WAY down. Then crank your headunit and see if the static is there.

Fair call, Chris. I didn't know this! Do you know if he can reuse the input wiring off the amp? Is there anything that could be re-crimped onto RCA plugs? If not, then you can only really reuse the front speaker wiring, and the remote wire. No point using the rear speaker wiring, because the speaker terminals are just above the amp. If you have to run new RCA cables, yer might as well run a speaker wire for the remote signal at the same time. I ran that, and the front speaker wire to the front.

I'll third it. One of those brackets from a stock amp would have saved me some time! You going to reuse it at all??

Should be two black boxes.. they have flaps on them that let air out, but not in. As nismokid said, it's just to let air out so that your boot closes properly.

yep yep... Dunno where I got that from! Thanks for being so harsh, grigor. I certainly didn't have mine in any gear when I cranked the motor over. The second time we pulled it off, we had it in 4th (as I said was correct, btw) and the breaker bar did it for us. I guess i'll try and redeem myself from the 1st gear thing and add: Unplug CAS when cranking over so the motor doesn't actually start. I know your motor is out of the car, but just incase someone tries this "in-car". Also, don't lose the locator. It's a small semi-circle of metal about 5mm wide. It'll probably fall out when you finally get the balancer off!

There's a thread on how to pull it out. Remove the dash surround like you're redoing the stereo, then you have two screws up the top of the clear plastic, and two under where the dash was removed. unclip wiring, unscrew bulbs. From memory, some of them are LED's... I think the red ones are? Or maybe the orange ones? Still, you'll see when you get there, they're all standard stuff. I'll update my post with the missing ones.

Left: 1 - Door Open | 2 - Air Bag 1 - | 2 - | 3 - | 4 - Hand Brake Top Center: 1 - Left Blinker | 2 - High Beams | 3 - Right Blinker Bottom Center: 1 - Traction off | 2 - HICAS off Right: 1 - Seat Belt | 2 - Check Engine 1 - Oil Low | 2 - Cat Temp High | 3 - Battery Low

Well, for the amp and speaker wiring.. if you want to reuse the factory cables, it might be quicker to hook up a multimeter? You should be able to find positive, negative, and then the remote wire when the ignition is on. Really though, you should run new power cables for your new amp, and maybe just use the remote wire. You'd probably have to adapt the input wires to RCA's for your new amp. Not sure how easy it would be to do that. From there, you just need the speaker wiring. I think you could use the continuity mode of a multimeter to find each speaker. When you positive to one, and negative to the other (power off) the meter should beep. i.e find a wire with a stripe on it (negative) probe it with the negative meter lead and then probe the other wires until it beeps. Then you have one speaker's positive and negative narrowed down. After you have all four, hook them up one at a time to your new amp and find out which is right, left front etc. As it's a good idea to run new power for the new amp, it's probably not a bad idea just to wire the rear speakers directly off the new amp... since they're just in the parcel shelf. The fronts, sure.. it's thin wire, but it's quicker and easier than running new cables through the cabin.(likewise with the remote wire)

Well, the stalling thing is probably because you have an atmospheric blow off valve? You shouldn't be idling that high unless it's a cold start anyway, but I guess the AFC is countering for the loss of air when you quickly release the pedal.

4th will be harder to crank because it's a taller gear, if you're using the engine-crank method, then 1st is the go. And only for one second. After the bolt is off, you'll probably need to use a puller. There are two different types. One has arms that pull on the outer lip of the balancer, and the other uses the two spare holes in the balancer for leverage. Both use a big bolt that pushes into the centre where the nut was removed. The first type actually broke my balancer in three places, the second one worked but was much harder to wind on.

I'll write them down for you a bit later if you like... Top left is fuel, orange. I remember cause I just filled up. Under that somewhere is the handbrake light... Fuel Brake Airbag ABS? (not on mine)

Can anyone advise if that's a little TOO even? A perfect 120 on all cylinders?

Damn! I just had a look at the pics on UAS... type1 and type2 both look like Need For Speed or Too Fast, Too Furious. =-[ www.uniqueautosports.com.au under r33gtst, then styling...