RANDY

Sk recommends 50/50 kero and metho I beleive.

As far as I know, this shouldn't happen man. You might have a short in the wiring or in the control panel. Check that out first, and failing that, maybe contact an alarm installer if you have an alarm, and get them to sus it out?

This also makes a lot of sense to me, but then there are tons of SAUers buying elaborate and expensive pod shields made of titanium and diamonds, and I didn't want to start something buy questioning their motives. As far as the lack of pulling power goes, that's interesting. If anything, it should give (probably not noticeably) MORE power. Still, if you want to experiment, grab a thick cardboard box, and cut a hole big enough for the pod pipe to go through. Make the hole in the bottom of the box. Face the box forwards (or 45 degrees, if the pipe is pointing that way) towards the headlight. Duct tape it down securely, then have a few hotlaps to see how it goes. Don't leave it in there for more than just a day of testing... I doubt you could set fire to it, but i'm sure someone will mention something along those lines. =-]

Penetr8 is also supposed to be "the shiz". Spray it on, leave it overnight, and then rusted nuts/bolts come off as though they were brand new.

Every car i've seen or owned that has done the overflow spit, ended up having a dead thermostat in the upper radiator housing. The water gets pressurised and really hot, but it doesn't circulate. You'd think it'd be more of a symptom of a dead radiator cap though, so perhaps change/check that first.

I just finished the job last night, once I remembered to grab my caulking gun! Things you will need: * Black windscreen sealant - costs around $10 from superCheapAuto. * A caulking gun * Thick rubber gardening gloves * A ratchet and/or spanner - 10mm * A philips-head screwdriver 1) You need to remove the trim that covers the rear inner of the boot. Use the philips-head screwdriver to unscrew and back the clips off, and then they just pop out by hand. Next, there are 5x 10mm nuts holding the tail-light assembly onto the body, which are accessible from the inside of the boot where you removed the trim. 2) There are also 4x 10mm nuts holding the Skyline panel on. On my car, it had to come off for the tail light to start moving out. As you can see, the tail-light has a little strip that sits behind the Skyline panel. You may need that spanner to get to the nuts on the right-hand side. I did, but that's also where my remote boot-release solanoid is. 3) With gentle, but firm pushing, the tail-light should start to come out without the aid of a hairdryer. I tried the hairdryer, but it made no difference. I pushed mainly on the threads that the nuts were on, using a small piece of wood so that I didn't puncture my hand. 4) Don't forget to unplug the wiring harness before you completely remove the tail-light assembly. It's just the one white plug. As you pull the assembly all the way out, take care that all that black sticky stuff doesn't get stretched like cheese on a pizza, as it will probably stick to your rear bar and be VERY difficult to remove. The old black sealant gets seperated between your tail-light and the body of the car. I don't know what a paid professional would do, but I took to removing ALL the old stuff. 5) 2 hours later, it's all gone. It took another hour to get it off my hands. I tried turps, metho, acetone... eventually I cracked the shytes and poured mower fuel over my hands. Instant dissolve! I now recommend the use of thick rubber gardening gloves instead of bare hands. Scrape a chunk of the sealant off, roll it into a ball, then dab and rip it off the remaining sealant. If you do it bit-by-bit, eventually the rest of it will follow. Don't experiment with solvents or anything like that on your paint. Ever. 6) The tail-light cleaned up nicely too. Check for any obvious cracks in it, as water could get in there, then out one of the breather holes in the rear of the assembly. Now is a good time to unscrew the globes and clean the contacts, and to blow a hairdryer into the sockets to get the water and moisture out. 7) This is where I ran the new stuff with the caulking gun. Notice I went around the top middle and bottom middle threads... The water from the boot gallery goes down over the top-middle thread, so I figured it's not a bad idea to divert the water away from this, as I think that's where some of the water was coming from. Additional to this, I put a TINY bit on each threaded rod, just incase water was getting in that way. When using the caulking gun, and the tube of sealant, I did it without the screw-on tip that comes with most tubes of stuff, simply because the tube itself gave a much thicker flow of sealant. One trip round the whole assembly at a slow pace did the job nicely. The new sealant is not as sticky or adhesive as the old stuff was, so I also used one finger to press it down to completely fill the little channel where it is supposed to go. This should tell you whether you have applied enough. 8) No picture... put the tail light back in firmly, then hand-screw the nuts back on, then slightly tighten each nut in a star-shape pattern until they are all evenly tight. (top-left, then bottom-right, top-middle, etc etc) Don't do one up completely tight, then the next, as you could snap or crack some plastic like that. Use the same principal as putting wheel-nuts back on, basically. Hopefully this has done the job... I think i'd have to dry the carpet first and then let it get wet to really tell if the leak is gone. I'll be smearing a light coat of silicon over that rusty seam on the inside of the boot... I couldn't see any sign of it on the outside. UPDATE: The tail-light is completely dry now, and it rained all last night. I beleive the problem is solved for me! DIY in response to this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20958&st=20

Thanks, Craved. And there ya go, Dan! several weeks later, and my boot and tail light is still dry! It hasn't made its way into the DIY section, so I might copy-paste it in there.

Love the sig pic! I'm a budding amateur photographer myself... As far as timeline, you could make one up yourself fairly easily? I'll start it off, so that people read this and then correct me. ;o) R32 GTS/T - 89-94 R33 GTS/T - 93-95 (series 1) R33 GTS/T - 95 (series 1.5) R33 GTS/T - 96-98 (series 2) R33 GTS/T - 98 (40th anniversary edition) R34 GTX/GTT - 98-02? That's the non-GTR's, and being more specific with the R33's, so here's a link to the GTR's and GTS's! http://www.driftclub.com/SkylineHistory.htm

Could I please get one thermo (2.5m) and one comp gland please! PM me your bank details if you're able to sell me just those parts? What is the other end of the thermocouple? Is it bare wire, or the standard k-type plug for multimeters? Cheers, Alan!

Tidy gtst you have there! And welcome! Start reading through the forced induction pages etc around here, there is plenty of questions with answers already there. From how turbo's work to how swaybars affect handling...it's all there!

ooh... you win! I get 7km to the litre. And I put a stock BOV back on, it made no difference for me.

Hey again! "brass compression mounting gland for $3ea". What are these for exactly? I'm looking for some way of mounting a k-type thermocouple into my intake pipe before the TB. Failing this, I might look into tapping into the rubber hose. Also, how long is your probe? ;o) 2.5m cable length, but how big is the actual probe part? I've found that the wire type react far more quickly and accurately compared to the metal probe types. Although, i'm using cheap stuff. Cheers!

That boost looks like it drops off pretty hard! Is that Turbosmart "boost valve" a bleed system? If so, change it for a ball and spring type that you can buy in another thread around here.

Got an atmo BOV? If so, that's your problem. =-]

Naw... it just buffers electricity... so... stops your lights from dimming on hard bass hits.

What's the deal with the max torque?

This could earn me some forum-flaming but.... drive slower? ;op As for the roo device, I know someone who has electronic ones on the front of his car. They're ultrasonic, and apparently they DO scare cats away... I can't confirm this personally, but i'd suspect that cats would run from cars regardless.

They get oil via the oil lines that are plumbed to the turbo.

My stocker's injectors are purple too. That's normal. Definately look for the coilpack thread. I changed my packs, and now that problem is GONE!. =-D

Yeah, all the lighters i've ever used work like that. My R33 however, doesn't stay in. I thought it might be a safety thing that you have to hold it in, but then it could get too hot or something. Might have to sus this out sometime.

Ah ok.. and yeah, the wire that you referred to is not actually an antenna power wire, it's the remote wire for an amp. The antenna itself is powered via wiring in the boot. Very odd that this would happen. 100% sure that you haven't got the remote and the antenna wire switched around?

Also.. kinda on topic, do your ciggy lighters stay in when pushed in, or do you have to manually hold them in? Thanks guys.

Test each fuse in there... if you have a multimeter. It should only take 5 minutes. Otherwise, the ciggy lighter gets power and earth from the same loom as the HU. It runs through a loom tube through the front of the facia, then under the gear-surround and into the socket. Might want to check that for power, as it could just be the contacts in the socket are too bent. My ciggy lighter gets warm, but not hot enough to like my smoke when i've lost my lighter (annoying!). So I figure that it's a contact issue for my car at least.

Umm.. the remote wire FROM the HU: If you have an amp, make sure it's connected to the amp's remote wire. If you have no amp, that wire should be taped up and tidied so that it doesn't short on metal or anything. It should NOT be connected to your antenna wire (factory loom side). The HU should have a "p.cont" or "antenna" or something wire... this is the one for the antenna. I'd be shocked if a modern HU DOESN'T have an antenna control wire. I might have made that unclear... HU "Remote" wire -> nothing HU "Power Antenna" wire -> antenna power wire in the factory harness

Good call on the continuity mode on the multimeter! Have you tried unplugging the power to your HU and testing whether it blows? I've heard a few stories of the 12v line for the A/C / clock / HU blowing like this. I don't think we've ever worked out what it was.