RANDY

Good call on the continuity mode on the multimeter! Have you tried unplugging the power to your HU and testing whether it blows? I've heard a few stories of the 12v line for the A/C / clock / HU blowing like this. I don't think we've ever worked out what it was.

Did you install it yourself? Have you checked the wiring? Make sure your remote wire is not touching anything (unless you run an amp, in which case it should only be connected to the amp remote wire) I'm pretty sure that Pioneer wouldn't design it like that, and i'm very sure that R33's antenna's don't do this on their own.

I usually get 350, but I hear that some people get 400-500. Last week I got 400... which is just a freak thing. I haven't modified my driving style at all.

omg lol wtf! Ditch that head unit! What kind of HU doesn't have a power antenna wire?? My first ever headunit was a Kenwood, bought for $40 from Cash Converters... about 6 years ago, and it was already a few years old at the time. IT had a power antenna wire!

I'm pretty sure also. And good point, only the series 2's had the nylon compressor wheel. (yay!)

LOL! My car arrived with a Sanyo CD player, and the same thing happened. I got my new head unit, wired it all up (correctly) and now it only goes up with radio. Might want to check your wiring, the bodgy person who put the first one in ran the antenna wire to the head unit's remote wire. (used for switchin on amps) That made it go up each time.

If the difference is quite big, might want to check that your tacho doesn't have a 4-6-8 cylinder switch on it.

Do you have some scales? Weigh yourself, then put the bonnet on your feet while holding the top upright. Use the difference! (steel caps might be an idea... but this is probably the quickest way to do it)

Oh crickey! =-o There's a good chance that you have blown and fried your ECU, you know!? I could be wrong, but i'd sus that out too.

Oh, and R34 special features... you'll get more tail than usual. ;op

It is ball bearing, and ceramic exhaust, nylon intake. The housing is a bit bigger apparently. The R34 put out 206kw The R33 put out 187kw Slightly bigger turbo, slightly bigger intercooler... i'm sure there's a few more differences, but those are the main ones that I know of.

Oh OK! I missed that!

My BOV will go off even if I don't reach positive boost.

Ermm... what kind of solvent? If you know of one that will take the goo off but not eat my paint or damage the rubber door-seal, i'm all ears! Cheers!

LOL... well, I think it's better if you can get someone sitting in the passenger seat to push the pedal for you (over the centre console, so they're not in your way), while your head and hand is under the dash greasing up the clutch-rod and spring. I sprayed on the last occasion, and then kept pumping the clutch about 20 times. It went away.

I agree with Dezz.. If you're hearing the turbo spinning up, that's not unusual. They spin up to 30,000rpms at full boost, so you can imagine that when you are just normally driving "off boost", the turbo is spinning around 2000-5000rpms... it's going to be audible. If you push the accelerator in halfway, you are likely to hear the turbo building up speed before it actually spins so fast that it's putting more air in the engine than the intake would normally suck in. Totally normal, basically =-] (mine does it. Especially first thing on a cold morning... I can't go over 1500-2000rpms without it spooling up on its own... in granny mode)

Trust: I don't think the teeth on the belt would wear down if the idler seized. The idler and tensioner bearings ride on the outside of the belt. Should be interesting to find out what it is!

oh =-o Like a big amount of missing or something? What kind of revs are you at when this happens? Could be a coil or spark plug problem...

Yer... I was using silicone spray, which should stay there longer, but I really think it needs grease. I didn't know exactly where it was coming from, so I didn't grease anything up. If I could push the clutch with my hand, I could have probably pinpointed the noise with my head under the dash or something. Even if you drop the clutch slave cylinder off the box, I don't think you would get the noise, because it seems to need load on the pedal to do it.

I think Dezz is onto you! You must have two guages... one in bar (aftermarket) and the factory dash one still working. So... to expand for ya... the halfway horizontal mark on the factory guage is "0"... which is on the border of vacuum and having boost. Anything above that line is boost measured in mmHg (milli-meters of mercury). Anything below is vacuum. Bear in mind that the stock guage is not as accurate as a new, quality guage... so the readings between it and your aftermarket one may vary slightly.

Fuel pressure ok? I mean.. if it was great one day, then bad the next, and that was after a fuel pump went in.... you could have a fuelling problem perhaps? I dunno that a dyno thrash is a great idea if you have unknown issues. I guess it could finish the job and then you'd REALLY know what the problem is! ;op Standard ECU eh? See if you can borrow someone's laptop and consult cable too.. it'll give you an idea of what your injectors are doing, and whether the ECU thinks you're lean or rich when you put the boot in. Might be useful.

Brian.. FYI, 0mmHg would be neutral/no boost pressure... half on the scale basically. So.. do you ever get it over the horizontal halfway mark? 0.3bar you measured... do you have an aftermarket guage? Is it at certain revs that it cuts out badly? It kinda sounds like a faulty AFM... unless you're just not getting power, but the revs are smooth. In which case it sounds like the boost controller is open and forcing the wastegate open as soon as the wastegate's spring pressure is matched. The stock RB20 wastegate opens at 10psi, so if yours is stock, then I doubt that would be it. Need more info on your aftermarket bits and mods I think!

squeaking and grinding could be the clutch slave cylinder? It's the piston bolted to the side of the box. Have a look to see if it's wearing on the fork too much or something. Otherwise, squeaking commonly comes from the clutch pedal/spring from under the dash.... it's hard to tell exactly where you are saying the noise came from. Does it still do it? Or has it stopped?

yerp... com.au needs a registered business name. stageasaustralia fits with the skylinesaustralia theme, and also gives you the "SAU" bit. Plus it'll only cost $10-15 to register for a year.

You have to get the right one for your model of car. Providing that you get the right clutch for your box, then the flywheel should mate up with the new clutch OK. As for delivered to your door, try the traders on here (such as JustJap), or nengun can export one to you.