RANDY

Well, I assume he's talking about the short bit of rubber (2-3inches) that joins that metal pipe to the metal outlet of the BOV? I think I replaced mine with a silicone item, and it's just a straight piece. If that's the bit you need (OP), just go to an auto store and buy the right ID size pipe, (sold by the metre usually) and cut it to size. If that fails, go to supercheap or some shop like that an look through their pile of radiator hoses. I'll bet a small car uses something that size for coolant or something.

Thanks mate!

I got a tiny bit.

BOOM: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151962277911810.1073741843.787781809&type=1&l=3e5f0908d3

I had Bendix in my stock everythings and they did the same. I had to use the Nissan brake grease on the shims and the problem went away.

Keen on the rear brace. Recken you could do me a deal shipped to Forestville 2087? Might have to be e-go.com.au unless Aust Post do items that long. I can't remember the dimensions, but it might pass if it's wrapped in cardboard. PM please?

Dammit! Saw the Tomei shifter, scrolled down to nab it... sold. =-[ haha =-]

Not close enough to Sydney, i'm afraid! Looking for something to put on my V35 rims so I can finally fit them to my car! Oh well.. gl with sale!

Hey mate. How much for the boost gauge or cup without gauge and cigarette lighter socket? What suburb is pickup? I might be interested in boot lining stuff if you have it in great condition too. Cheers -Steve

I'm having a hard time working out where you are. I'm semi-keen if you are in Sydney?

My advice is to NOT remove the spoiler from the bootlid either as the buyer or seller. They crack really easily at the brakelight and don't come off in a hurry. Also, the GTST boot is missing two holes required to mount a GTR wing. I paid practically double for my wing/boot combo... great deal!

Hey mate! Thanks for the feedback! I think I used those exact words somewhere in the DIY post!: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/301992-diy-fix-cluncking-noise-in-dash-r33s/ "For the life of me" I couldn't get my hand in there either. I scratched up the back of my hand quite a bit and could just manage to get a fingertip on the side of one of the bolts. I pulled out the glovebox, the aircon vent on the passenger side, the stereo and facia, the vents... there is just no way of getting to it. Luckily, I have pulled my dash out before when it needed new airbags, and I've had my cluster out a few times to fix the tacho and change globes... same with the stereo. Once those are out, it's just a couple of screws per panel and eventually the whole thing is ready to take out of the car. That's the stage I was at but the last time I pulled it out of the car it had no front windscreen in it. I don't know if you can take it all the way out with the screen still in, so I just got to that point and then lifted it up so I could two hands in there easily. Honestly, to do it right (especially if you have bought a new actuator), you should just bite the bullet and pull the dash up. It is extremely easy. If you haven't done it before it looks daunting, but trust me... it's very very simple. If you undo a nut and take a panel off, put the nut back on the thread afterwards. If you take three screws out and pull a panel off, pop the screws back in the holes of the panel and put masking tape across it so they don't fall out or disappear. I think I can pull a dash out in about an hour now, but the first time you just undo stuff and wiggle until you work out what's holding something in. The bonnet popper got me the first time, but it's just two bolts and you slide it down. The surround of the glovebox is held on with clips after the screws are removed and I broke one of mine as it came out. I glued and graphite powdered it back together and it's perfect again. The a-pillar covers were a bit of a dick... you're supposed to remove the c-pillar (rear window) covers first, as the a-pillar covers slip underneath them. I unbolted the passenger grab-handle and slipped the a-pillar cover down and out of the back piece and then gradually popped the clips towards the front. So, bad news is: no other way if you can't reach it. Good news is: it's easy and I am 100% confident that anyone can do it in a weekend the first try if you have basic tools and persistence. If you don't already have these, I highly recommend these tools for any interior work: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Door-Trim-Remover-Set-5-Piece.aspx?pid=282096 You won't scratch any of your interior with these, and the thick pry-bar is excellent for popping clips that have never been unpopped (a-pillar in particular).

27730M (up under the dashboard) 277??? (driver footwell) Potential Ballast Resistor opened up. Arcing occurs due to weakened/worn metal contacts and rough roads. Mine arced to the point it broke the track and ate halfway through the PCB.

I did some diagnosing recently using some found guides, but I found some more options and details worth mentioning and I intend to update this thread with images of the various sensors and actuators. Hold OFF for 5 seconds within 10 seconds of turning ignition to ON. 1) A/C unit should light up all characters and lights with the exception of the backlight. In any diagnostic mode, the error codes (if any) will alternate. (e.g: 25/26/25/26/25/26/25/26/ etc) 2) Press UP for sensor check (2) and wait. 20 - No faults 21 - Outside air sensor 22 - Inside air sensor 23 - Water temperature sensor 24 - Intake temperature sensor 25 - Sunload sensor (must be in sunlight to pass) 26 - Potential Ballast Resistor 27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor 3) Press UP for door-position check (3) and wait. 30 - No faults 31 - Face 32 - Face/Foot 34 - Foot 35 - Demist/Foot 36 - Demist 4) Press UP for manual actuator motion check (4) and wait. The fan motor show ramp up if it is working. Press the DEMISTER button to cycle through the following modes. 41 - Face 42 - Face/Foot - Recirculating 43 - Face/Foot - Fresh 44 - Foot 45 - Demist/Foot 46 - Demist 5) Press UP for temperature sensor check (5). Press the DEMISTER button to cycle through the following sensors. - Outside temperature - Inside temperature Press the FAN button to adjust the sensor temperature + or - 3 degrees with the UP and DOWN buttons. The change is saved but the new temperature is not displayed in the diagnostics. This is good for fine-tuning, but settings will be lost if the unit is ever disconnected or the car battery is replaced. To exit diagnostics, press AUTO. Notes: * If either of the temperature sensors are way off (e.g -25C), they might be disconnected or faulty. The inside sensor is behind the grille in the dash where the antenna height button is. I have confirmed by spraying contact cleaner into it while on diagnostics mode and it shot from 18C to 5C for a few minutes. I do not know where the outside sensor is. * As mentioned above, if the sun-sensor is not in sunlight, it will throw off a "25" code which you can choose to ignore if you are testing in the shade. It is a small round circle in the passenger-side demister vent about the size of a 10c coin. It can be removed easily after the demister vents are popped out with a plastic prybar. Do the driver side first. * If you are getting either hot or cold air no matter what you are selecting, it will most likely be the "26" actuator by the drivers left foot. Its job is to mix between the heater core and regular air. It may move a little or not at all, but for it to seal off from the regular air or heater core air, it needs to have a full range of motion. The unit can sometimes be opened and fixed by bending one of the metal contacts back in place that tells the actuator when it has reached its limits. I replaced mine with a new one. Three screws hold it to the aircon box, and the door-flap rod is connected with a clip that requires a fair bit of force on a set of pliers to pop off. * If you have a clicking sound on startup and MODE selections, it is a common fault with R33's probably due to age and Australian heat and the proximity of the actuator to the surface of the dashboard. This actuator is known to eventually break teeth off one of the internal gears as uses some teeth more frequently than others for daily operation. There are guides on opening these units and rotating the gear 180 degrees so that it uses teeth that are previously unused and in good condition. Opening the unit is very difficult and I was not able to do it. That's the easy part, getting to the unit is almost impossible with a Series 2 with airbags unless you partially remove the dashboard. There are guides for series 1 whereby you can reach it by hand after removing the glovebox (5 minute job) and some claim to have swapped it successfully in an airbagged series 2 by shifting the fan motor and airbox, but I tried this and could barely even touch the actuator, much less get a socket on the two bolts holding it in. I replaced it with a new item after partially removing the dashboard. Getting to the point of removing the dashboard takes me about an hour, perhaps less, and once at that point, I could lift the dashboard up 10 inches or so... enough to get two hands and a ratchet in there to remove the actuator easily. My "26" Air Mix actuator and a replacement part.

Handbrake light also lights for R32's with low brake fluid. Witnessed that in a mates car many years ago while hard cornering.

Update: After removing the vent pipe, then the stereo and facia surround etc etc, there was still no way of getting to the actuator so I ended up removing the dashboard (just lifting it up, really) and replacing it.

Thanks mate! That's so true. I keep mine in the car 24x7 and most of the time i'm the only one in it so the passenger side is really the best place for it. I can reach it and release it with one hand, and it's nice to know that if there is an electrical fire or you go to help someone in a car accident that you have an extinguisher on hand.

Also, here is my install. I mounted the bar to the bolts that hold the seat to the rail, so the extinguisher moves with the seat. Only downside to having it permanently mounted (although I can whip it out pretty quickly. heh heh. ;o) is that the black handle *can* get caught on my wife's dresses/skirts.

I know it is not good for the club dollar-wise, but I loved the Bathurst long weekend Texi. Almost no-one there, and after lunch I finished a run, went to a nonexistent queue, and went right back on again after the guy infront finished his run. So epic. I think I got 30 runs that day and nuked 3 out of 4 tyres!

As per facethisnow!: http://www.facebook.com/events/576747492359739/585616574806164/?notif_t=event_mall_reply (I replied to his question in the FB texi thread)

Dammit. I hate when Google takes me back to a thread which is actually the question I was already asking! The end-caps WERE genuine and the nismo bits were stuck onto them. I'm swapping them over now and have spare carbon-print GTR ones. Old thread, but FYI for anyone interested.

As per facebook thread, yes to extinguisher. Read the "first timers" thread linked in the first post for all the details of what you need. (helmet, extinguisher etc)

I have suggestions. Figure 8 skidpan. I can draw it for you if you like? ;op Also... something that requires entering a largish circle, and going around it a few times, and optionally indicating to exit it. ;o)

I recken that would make a good SAU "rego trailer" or something ;oD

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/Passenger-Vehicles-/35227/i.html?_fspt=1&_sadis=200&_sop=15&_from=R40&_fpos=2000&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udhi=3%2C200&_nkw=turbo&_pppn=r1&_dmpt=AU_Cars&LH_AllListings=on&Type%2520of%2520Title=Clear%2520%2528most%2520titles%2529%7C%2521&Transmission=Manual%7C%2521