RANDY

lol.. the site URL got edited out before I could check your price. Post price in AU dollars, and i'll tell you if I can find cheaper locally. Contact Chris Rojers who lurks (helps a lot) around here. He sells Dynamat stuff.

I have a door kit that i'm going to install pretty soon. From what i've read, it's "the shyte" for sound deadening and increasing SPL in cars.

I thought that was pretty normal? Isn't it the cold idle control? Some little piece of metal that bends as it heats up apparently. Still, have a search for "idle" or "cold start", because it sounds like a bunch of questions that have been asked before. The whirring noise is probably your alternator or a belt... mine makes an induction kind of noise, but it's just normal belt sounds. As far as the accelerator pickup... are you saying that there is lag when you push the pedal, or that the revs climb too slowly when you jab the pedal? That could indicate an air leak. I'm no expert, but if your car is well and truely due for the 100,000kms service, you could have something more severe if all these things started happening at the same time. A stuck idle bearing or pulley would make a lot of noise and also hold the revs back.

I only smoke when my car is cold. But, if you have some smoke, how long has it been happening? If you have worked on it recently, it'd be grease or oil burning off as it gets hot. Even a dirty hand on a dump pipe can make a noticeable amount of smoke when the engine is hot. Is the image supposed to be related in any way?

Sounds like.... maybe... a turbo timer of some sorts? I can't imaging why else you'd want an ignition LED. Unless it's an immobiliser. Anyway, model numbers and pics would help a lot!

Not willing to seperate monitors? Am I right in reading "2x dual 17" LG Flatscreen monitors" as two sets of dual monitors? Or you just have two monitors? Cheers!

I have seen people use spacers. For the front, anyway. It's just a tube about an inch long, and the bolts that hold the plates on seem to be a bit longer than this. You could always buy longer bolts anyway. My rear one fits nicely, but I just bent the front one about 2cm on both sides, to a 45 degree angle, and it sits inside the hole just nicely. Any more bending than this, i'm sure would constitute a "pedestrian hazard" and you could be defected for it. (or not pass rego)

Ah! Yes... when you open your door, the boot light actually turns on (I can always see mine through the vents in the parcel shelf) So if it's off, the boot stays off. Glad you sorted it out!

Waiting on price and whether it's not cracked for the dash surround. Cheers!

Here you go!

Atmospheric... a BOV that blows the boost pressure into the atmosphere. Mine did this, and the BOV came with the car, so I bought a stock one.

ooh.... I might have to clarify what I call "reasonable money" =-] And i'd rather stick with 6.5" (as I stated) rather than go down in cone size to 6". Let's say... out of what I can readily buy from strathfield, jaycar, jb hifi etc, for a maximum of $200 eg: JayCar's 6.5" Kevlar woofers are $80 each. My clarion splits were RRP $200. Either of those i'm happy to use, but if there's something else out there, i'd like to know. Also, i'm not worried about high end frequencies in the rear, I want to run the rear drivers as a woofer/sub only. Thanks for the input thus far!

MOD EDIT: Decided to create a consolidated thread for everyone to voice their opinions and ideas here. From now on any one posting about opinions on the following items will have their threads merged into this one: - what headunit to buy - what speakers to get - system setups etc Any other questions (eg problems, technical advice) will remain as they are. Topics asking for installers will generally be closed as they are a frequent topic. Cheers, Vijay I'm looking to replace my rear speakers, as my current (and still new) JBL 3-ways are not handling the bass the way I want them to. They run like they were designed for sealed/ported/bandpass enclosure, but my parcel-shelf is pretty much "free air". I was going to use JayCar's 6.5" Kevlar woofers in the back, and then muck around with low pass and full range settings on my amp, but currently I have to run the JBL's on highpass, as the coil seems to fling all over the place and lose control. The same amp drives my clarion splits up front, and they pump like crazy.. even if I pull the pod out of the door, they don't lose their travel. That would suggest that they handle free air applications better, so I was almost considering buying another set, using the supplied crossover, but not running the tweeter... just mid and bass for rear fill. So, three questions I guess: What would you recommend for very bassy open air 6.5" speakers in the rear? Is it worth trying JayCar's 6.5" kevlar woofers? Would you use a split system, but only the woofer part so that the woofers are matched front and back? Cheers guys!

Dang. I was hoping you had R34GTT original wheels. Or if anyone buys these, and has their stockers left over, PM me please! It might make the purchase price of these cheaper for you! =-D

Ermm... i'll get back to you tomorrow... or tonight if I go downstairs for a smoke, and i'm able to yank it out without burning my fingers. But really, as long as the wedge part fits, and it's a 12v globe, it will light up. I bought my car with no globe, so what I come back to you with will just be what I have decided to run. I will be changing to a white neon or fluro stick in the near future. The globe assembly doesn't give off much light, even at higher wattages.

Yeah, I was jsut giving some background on why I thought the grounding could be bad. =-]

There is alternator whine, which is a high-pitch whine with the revs of the car. The buzzing though, could be something else. I suspect it's going to be the typical power interference thing though. Try turning your gains down if you can't seperate the cables any more than you can. I have a similar problem, but I haven't finished moving the amp around and deciding what i'm going to do.

You've gotta wonder how good they are, and how well they're built. I'd really like to hear from someone who has fitted one. Some of them look OK, others look dodge.

Intercooler and BOV have been shipped out. I don't expect any problems with the BOV sent COD, but technically it's the only item pending payment. 2nd: Young GT-R $90 Tas 3rd: Josh_r33jet $65 Vic

yeah, I know what you mean! This place was a goldmine once a mate put me onto them! As long as they're high-tensile steel (8.8) I recken they should be fine. But anyway, they ask what it is for, and then get you what you need. =-D

Yikes! Although there is a nut and bolt place near me that can give me anything that I have an original of. =-] But i'll guard them like you say!

Haven't gotten round to it yet. Work has been nuts, and i've just received my split dump pipe... I was waiting for that to come in, so that I could do the whole lot in one go. Also have to order a new exhaust manifold gasket.... i'm sure this one is toast by now. =-] I'll PM ya when I get it done.

A cut and polish should do the job. It should take about a 10th of a mm off your clear coat, which would even it down to the depth of the scratch. (and is also why you shouldn't cut and polish more than once a year apparently)

From what I understand, the switches in the pillars complete the circuit by grounding when a door is open. If it's just the interior light playing up, then i'd suggest that the ground wire has grounded itself somewhere. I don't have a wiring guide, but maybe it would be easy to start with the interior assembly first. Pull the cover off, then unscrew it from the roof. Check that the wires aren't shorting on the metal roof... maybe giggle the ground wire while a door is open to see if the problem is anywhere along the roof. After that, I don't know where it goes. =-[

I'll wait to hear back about the dash plastic, but i'll take the shifter surround either way. Cheers!