RANDY

Price on plastic surround from the gearshifter? Manual one. Pending prices, also keen on the drivers side plastic that holds the window buttons on it. Don't require window control buttons. And I might be interested in the whole dash surround.. goes around the stereo/AC, all the way round the tacho/speedo etc. Cheers!

Get the hose, and stick it into that water drainage thing I was talking about. Turn the hose on, and then see if there is any water coming in, while the carpet is stuck back. The area you are talking about in the wheel arch is where the drainage that I was talking about should go.

It's just a wegde-bulb... Not sure on the name of the size, but the bulb part is rather large. Might want to put a multimeter onto the socket to test for power?

Maybe try downloading an Apexi manual from the Apexi website? It should list the tacho wire as some of their piggybacks need to use it. Possibly the SAFC? That'd tell you from the ECU which colour or position it is in...

Oh very nice!!! I was going down this path with my hand-made battery cover, but my stock rear strut tower bar actually sits BEHIND the stock cover. I really like the idea of those brackets though! Where did you get the 8 inch sub from? I couldn't find any! If this all works like it should, then I can get that Baupunkt 5 channel amp and run a small sub too!

Yep. Not a prob. PM me your address and phone number please. Cheers!

Cool... i'll have to give this a go soon! Cheers!

I think it's the only thing left, actually! Interested?

Ah! I've PM'd him. We'll see if it's DIY-worthy. =-] Cheers!

Woah! That looks great! I've never cleaned my engine bay since my first car... an 85 VK Commodore. I used the low-pressure gun at Laser Wash once on it, and then of course, it didn't start. Pushed it out of the bay when I was finished and waited for something to dry. Later in its life, I used degreaser, and then hosed it off straight afterwards. This melted the paint, although it probably had a cheap respray in its life. Two more cars later, and I haven't cleaned with anything other than a sponge and carwash, with a dribbling hose to wash it off. Even then I only do the Radiator support and gutters... I don't put water near the engine anymore. One question on the comment somewhere above... about spraying WD40 on electrical plugs etc... isn't WD40 conductive? Would it be any better than having water in there? Or is that method for preventing rust and corrosion?

That is the JayCar model of amp that i'm talking about. If it's elevated a bit, the RCA plugs should just come up to the fuses and relays.

Cheers! If it does go in the tutorials section, i'll tidy it up a bit. =-]

I thought it was a known golden rule for ALL Skyline drivers to only ever use 98ron fuel, as all our cars ran on 100ron in Japan? In any case, you could probably reset the ECU (search) so that it relearns knock and timing off the better fuel. =-]

Thanks, RocketBoy! I guess i'll mount the whole pod over the dynamat, then trace a hole for the same size as the inner circle of the pod. Might aswell remove the black rubber from the back of the pod too, while i'm at it.

Cooler is sold, pending payment! I'll keep you second in line, Skidkid, if NismoChick changes her mind. Cheers!

Umm... hmm.... I'll PM this person back, if I don't hear from them by the end of today, it's yours. I'll PM you with my bank details, and you can reply with the shipping info. Sound good? Cheers!

My first car had this problem.. an 85 VK Commodore. Under the windscreen, kinda under the bonnet, you have a water-drainage thing on either side? It'd be under the wipers, but right on the side, and it's actually a hole in the inner front quarter panel. If yes, then it's probably the same thing. That water drainage goes down under the car... problem is, it runs over (probably bare) metal, which rusted into a hole somewhere. It used to fill up the passenger footwell to the point where I had to use a small bucket to bail the water out on winter mornings so I could drive to work. Nothing else would appear wet... kickpanels off, ECU off, and still nothing wet. I think it was running down the firewall somewhere... but only ever did the footwell carpet get wet. Frustrating, and looked like more money than the car was worth, so I never fixed it. The idea I had for fixing this issue was to use a small PVC pipe, shove it down the drainage hole so that it goes from the entrance of the hole, all the way down to under the car where it normally drains out, and just to silicone the top of it. All the water would then get channeled down the pipe, and not touch the metal, and thusly not leak into the car. If you don't have drainage holes where i've described, then i'm just typing for nothing! =-]

The only reason that I didn't wear gloves, is that the black stuff is so damn sticky, that it would probably rip it apart. To get the black sealant off, I used a lump of it to "dab" on and pull off what was on the car, one bit at a time. Similar to removing glue or something... can't remember where i've used that technique before, but i'm sure it was related to glue. Thanks for the nod of approval, Trust! =-D

No distortion.. i'm already running the gain all the way down on my current amp, and yeah, the head unit isn't putting out the 52w that it claims, which is why I said "not MUCH more". ;o) I have held my parcel shelf in such a manner that the buzzing doesn't happen, so I know that it's just the MDF bouncing on the metal parcel tray. Same thing with the doors... i've insulated and padded the hangars on the doortrims, tightened all the screws that hold the map-pockets on etc etc... Something else is vibrating, and the speakers are nowhere near their maximum throw. A more powerful and high-quality amp will better control the voice coils and ensure that they don't distort. So i'd rather get that Jaycar amp than risk using a 50wrms amp and find out that i've wasted money. =-] A mate that used to work at JayCar (and is very knowledgeable on the subject) has told me that the JayCar amps are solid, but not of the same quality of a really decent brand amp. At this stage, if it fits and it's powerful enough to push my speakers around, i'll be happy!

Just got to insulate the doors and self-made parcelshelf with some Dynamat stuff that I have on its way.... hopefully things will stop vibrating with the bass once I undertake that task. ;o)

I thought you had to have a spare for rego... and yeah, "they" say the space-saver is good for 80km/hr... I doubt they'd wear out very quickly... a few hundred k's should be easily done! As for the amp, damuscat, I was considering a 4x50rms amp... but I wasn't sure how it would go.. it's not much more than a head unit puts out, and my current amp sounds good with the speakers. I'm going for the JayCar Response 4x100wrms amp. The full-range model is 29cm by 26cm? I joined two A4 pieces of paper together, and it fits in that little hole next to the battery. So now i'm ordering one of those, and making up an MDF or masonite tray for it to sit on.

I will have to check my car for this rubber grommet!

I just finished the job last night, once I remembered to grab my caulking gun! Things you will need: * Black windscreen sealant - costs around $10 from superCheapAuto. * A caulking gun * Thick rubber gardening gloves * A ratchet and/or spanner - 10mm * A philips-head screwdriver 1) You need to remove the trim that covers the rear inner of the boot. Use the philips-head screwdriver to unscrew and back the clips off, and then they just pop out by hand. Next, there are 5x 10mm nuts holding the tail-light assembly onto the body, which are accessible from the inside of the boot where you removed the trim. 2) There are also 4x 10mm nuts holding the Skyline panel on. On my car, it had to come off for the tail light to start moving out. As you can see, the tail-light has a little strip that sits behind the Skyline panel. You may need that spanner to get to the nuts on the right-hand side. I did, but that's also where my remote boot-release solanoid is. 3) With gentle, but firm pushing, the tail-light should start to come out without the aid of a hairdryer. I tried the hairdryer, but it made no difference. I pushed mainly on the threads that the nuts were on, using a small piece of wood so that I didn't puncture my hand. 4) Don't forget to unplug the wiring harness before you completely remove the tail-light assembly. It's just the one white plug. As you pull the assembly all the way out, take care that all that black sticky stuff doesn't get stretched like cheese on a pizza, as it will probably stick to your rear bar and be VERY difficult to remove. The old black sealant gets seperated between your tail-light and the body of the car. I don't know what a paid professional would do, but I took to removing ALL the old stuff. 5) 2 hours later, it's all gone. It took another hour to get it off my hands. I tried turps, metho, acetone... eventually I cracked the shytes and poured mower fuel over my hands. Instant dissolve! I now recommend the use of thick rubber gardening gloves instead of bare hands. Scrape a chunk of the sealant off, roll it into a ball, then dab and rip it off the remaining sealant. If you do it bit-by-bit, eventually the rest of it will follow. Don't experiment with solvents or anything like that on your paint. Ever. 6) The tail-light cleaned up nicely too. Check for any obvious cracks in it, as water could get in there, then out one of the breather holes in the rear of the assembly. Now is a good time to unscrew the globes and clean the contacts, and to blow a hairdryer into the sockets to get the water and moisture out. 7) This is where I ran the new stuff with the caulking gun. Notice I went around the top middle and bottom middle threads... The water from the boot gallery goes down over the top-middle thread, so I figured it's not a bad idea to divert the water away from this, as I think that's where some of the water was coming from. Additional to this, I put a TINY bit on each threaded rod, just incase water was getting in that way. When using the caulking gun, and the tube of sealant, I did it without the screw-on tip that comes with most tubes of stuff, simply because the tube itself gave a much thicker flow of sealant. One trip round the whole assembly at a slow pace did the job nicely. The new sealant is not as sticky or adhesive as the old stuff was, so I also used one finger to press it down to completely fill the little channel where it is supposed to go. This should tell you whether you have applied enough. 8) No picture... put the tail light back in firmly, then hand-screw the nuts back on, then slightly tighten each nut in a star-shape pattern until they are all evenly tight. (top-left, then bottom-right, top-middle, etc etc) Don't do one up completely tight, then the next, as you could snap or crack some plastic like that. Use the same principal as putting wheel-nuts back on, basically. Hopefully this has done the job... I think i'd have to dry the carpet first and then let it get wet to really tell if the leak is gone. I'll be smearing a light coat of silicon over that rusty seam on the inside of the boot... I couldn't see any sign of it on the outside. UPDATE: Tidied and went into more detail. The tail-light is completely dry now, and it rained all last night. I beleive the problem is solved for me!

Added pics of intercooler. Would look better after a clean! Few fins a little bent, but probably could be straightened if it bothers you.

Nuts, I didn't realise that you did dynamat stuff aswell!