RANDY

Pricey! http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/c...ome.php?cat=248

All well and good if some of the stud is still poking out of the side! Mine's snapped off inside, and there's a little bit left in there. =-[ Noone like the thread doctor in Sydney??

I think Redline quote that oil as 70W130, and the VMX80 is whateverW80? I have the castrol stuff in there now, and it didn't fix my crunch. It seems to go away when the car is quite hot. ActionDan wrote up a little guide on the Redline oil in his car, and from what i've read, it should fix my problem. I'm yet to hear of anyone who has completely killed their synchros from using Redline Lightweight.

sauve, which particular shifter did you buy? If it's not branded or easily recognisable from the pack, which seller did you buy from? Cheers!

Your pics don't show a badge? Mine is there, I had to buy it brand new ($60!!) because the previous owner stuck a Silvia badge on there... with superglue or something. It didn't look pretty when it was removed.

I replaced my coilpacks with some low-k used ones, problem solved. See the huge thread on repairing coilpacks to try and resolve this issue, otherwise, replace coilpacks with used or brand new splitfires. =-]

It's neg, so find my post in the for sale area and make an offer if you decide you want it. =-]

Sensor sold!

If you're interested in a Turbosmart type 2 adjustable atmo BOV, I have one. It's direct fit for an R33, but I dunno about your S15. If you want it, i'm asking for $80 ono.

Good work! Nesh: bear in mind that the R33 light globes are tons easier to get to and change. There is a thread on it, and I have done it myself before I knew a thread existed, so you can imagine that it's easy. Two globes light up all the buttons, and they pop out with a turn of the screwdriver when you get to the back of the AC unit. I have narva blue caps on new grain of wheat globes, and they are too blue and too dim. I did my demister globe, and reused the stock blue cap, and the button lights up a nice bright solid white. I want that for my AC unit, but I threw away the silicon caps because they ripped into bits when I tried to get them off the old globes. I've considered white LED's, but with the R33 AC buttons being lit up by only two light sources, I fear that directional LED's are not going to light up the middle (temp up/down) buttons very well. Anyone have a stock unit that can put pics of what it SHOULD look like?

I concur with the grounding kit. It would normally come with a blue box, which is basically full of capacitors. From there, it earths to predefined points around the engine bay. Only useful if the blue box is there. See Satanic's R34GTT pics. He has one installed.

hmm! I don't think i've ever even seen a pic of a series 2 4-door!? turbo/non turbo should be the same. Don't know about 4-door.

Look for the r33 stereo installation guide, that will get you to the AC unit. Unscrew, unplug, then undo ... dunno.. 8 small screws from the AC unit, and the front should come off. If the other guide is what i'm thinking of, the button has popped out of its hinge-type clips. If they're not broken, you can just reattach the buttons and you're away!

Oh, and the R34GTT came as 206kw, rather than the 185kw R33's, so it'd respond even better to upgrades. =-]

Yeah, be careful if you're looking a "GTS" is a non-turbo, but you said that you want a good RB25DET (turbo). So you're looking for a GTST. For 25K I think you could get a 98 Series 2 40th anniversary edition for that money, or a decent R34GTT manual. I think the R34 will hold its value more though, being a newer car. Do what Satanic did, and call an importer, and tell them to look for a perfect condition R34GTT, and to email you with pics and the auction-sheet when they find one. You'd want it for about 22K delivered and complied, so you can rego and insure it with the remaining 3K.

Hazard/Demister sold. Anyone want the sensor?

So can anyone recommend anyone in Sydney that specialises in this?

I have a slightly slightly used sensor for sale if you're interested? It tested and read out exactly the same as another brand plug that i'm currently using. Wires are already stripped and crimped onto a factory plug.

argh. So much effort! =-] Cheers for the info!

No stocker wheels?

I've seen a pic ages ago of it done, in the glovebox, but I wouldn't have a clue where that pic is now! As Mr32 said, all you are doing is extending the wires from the AC harness (two harnesses plug into the back of the AC), to wherever you want the unit to go. I'd guess that the best way to do that is to cut all the wires off about 10cm away from the plugs that go into the AC unit, extend them with spade plugs or whatever you like, and then back into the plugs so you can just chuck the plugs back into the AC unit.

Yeah good luck! I'm not so sure that the *main* battery wire is shorted, otherwise you'd have, like you said, a whole heap of stuff not working. I suspect the 12v wire somewhere behind the dash, that feeds 12v to the clock, radio, and AC will be shorted or have an inline fuse blown. Your AC resets to 18 degrees or whatever, right? But in any case, i'm willing to bet that your 12v constant feed to the HU is not giving out any power at all. I'd take the accessories wire off it ASAP, as the accessories may short with it and you could start a car-fire if you're not careful.

Yikes! A decent 11-plate Century battery shouldn't cost more than $120 You might need to make sure that you get one with the correct terminal-size, as the stock terminal clamps are both of the small size. Just ask a decent mechanic where to get one. Don't get one from a crummy joint, as the battery has probably been sitting there for yonks. Maybe call Century batteries and ask them where and how much?

Post up pics =-]

Kinda would make sense though. Sounds like the 12v power is gone then. You put the accessory wire with the 12v wire, it will feed power to the 12v line... and the accessory power will be much weaker than the 10amp or whatever the headunit will want, so your door beeper goes dull. When you turn the accessories off, it's not giving power to the 12v wire anymore, so you lose settings etc. I'd guess that there is an inline fuse for the 12v constant power wire, which must have blown. That, or it's shorting out somewhere. My money is on a short, cause you say that when it's hooked up correctly, the door beeper is soft. Get a multimeter onto those wires man. Test for 12v on both of those power wires, and even check that the grounding is 100%. I used the stock wiring harness, and used all those wires, and it was fine. The only change was that the black ground from the head unit... which I put to one of those screw-bolts that hold the gearshift surround on.