RANDY

Jeees... tough problem, eh!? I couldn't take mine out, there is a line of black sticky stuff that is sealing it in, which is REALLY hard to budge. Does anyone have a pic of an R33 tail light out of the car? I'm curious to see where the water from the bootlid goes exactly. It pours in behind the tail-light, and obviously some goes in the car, but it sounds like the blinker is sealed seperately to the rest? My last car (VP Berlina) had tail lights that had one rubber seal all around the perimiter of the tail light. The bolts that held it in also clamped the tail light solid against the rear panel, so it was watertight. It also meant the tail light would come straight off after removing the bolts from the inside. Pity it's not that easy anymore! =-[

Done everything except the injector clean already. Including cleaning AFM. Someone mentioned wynn's injector treatment, and that it made a huge difference for them, so that's my next step now.

Surely this would be the other way round? For better economy, you'd want the ECU thinking it's getting less air, so it squirts less fuel into the mix? More air would call for more fuel normally, right? I would have guessed that if you clean the crap off the wire in the AFM, the wire is more exposed to the actual air coming in, which would cool the wire down and tell the ECU to squirt more fuel. (as the ECU measures the voltage of the wire based on the heat the wire retains from the voltage being applied to it) If the wire is protected by gunk, it would stay warmer and not see so much air, and the ECU will give it less fuel to mix with? Correct me where i'm wrong, but i've cleaned everything on my car, and I get BAD economy... I was really hoping a SAFC would help fix this.

I changed my O2 sensor.. TWICE, and it makes no difference. I checked both new plugs with some consult software, and they were operating correctly. I've read hundreds of posts, and I don't recall anyone every saying that it fixed their fuel problems (apart from above) or gave anything more than 20km extra to the tank. =-[ It's not a magic fix, it seems. I'm now searching for any kind of results from tuning AFR's with a SAFC.

Pic of head unit to me via pm please?

You've got the right button, correct? Which button are you hitting to turn on the front demister? Do the other airvents stop when you push the button? Or do they keep blowing air. If that's the case, then it sounds like the flap that directs the air into different vents may have stopped working. Or the bar could have fallen out of place.

Hmm.. I have the same thing. The seam on my left taillight looks rusty like the above picture. I get just the left-hand side of the boot carpet damp, and couldn't figure out where the water was coming from. The underside of the bootlid was dry, and so was all the boot lining around the place. I have sealed the taillight in that dip at the top-middle with foam strips, so I can remove them easily. That particular taillight also traps water.. more like condensation though, it's never got a puddle in it.

Mine has two dead globes. I put a multimeter onto the globe sockets to test, you may want to try that. Stick the headlights on and then probe the globe sockets with your multimeter set to 12v. The wiring goes through the rear into the boot. On mine, it comes through right in the dead middle, between both rear tail-lights. From there, it goes into a red wire along the right hand side and up towards the main wiring harness. Check fuses too, I guess.

In my R33, the rear wiper gets it water from the main water under the bonnet. Yours would have to be the same, but i'd suggest that the line is blocked somewhere if the motor is working. When I removed the rear seat I could see that it ran along there. After that, I have no idea where it would go. Try Checking the engine bay end first, then see if you can find a way to force water into the tube. Come to think of it... I think my water reservoir bottle has two outputs and two motors to push water from it? Might want to check yours for that? (test that little motor)

Factory immobiliser?? If it had a dealer-optional immobiliser or something, your alarm installer must have been drunk to run two at the same time. Try posting those pics up, cause Chris and some others can tell what kind of alarm it is by the box or numbers on the box.

I get 360 k's to a 50L fill guaranteed. 400k's if I do some highway driving. Stock series 2. New spark plugs, new O2, new air filter, new fuel filter, have recently done major service too. So... that's 14.5L/100K. Soon to fix coilpacks and clean injectors.

As 2rismo said, it could be a low brake fluid issue. A mates's R32GTR does the same when it is running low. There is a sensor on the reservoir that can set it off.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85225 In the DIY section. 1st link in that post is the process. 3rd file has images.

Ah! Good diagnostic there, Craved! Definately try that one, it should confirm power for you, or as Craved said, check out the install of the dimmer. Getting that whole dash panel loose can be done by following the stereo install guides for R32's. Check those fuses first, cause it's easier to do than loosen the panel. (oh, and don't fiddle with your knob too much, otherwise it'll go stiff and you'll need to lube it up)

Could be a stupid question on my part, but do you have a dimmer knob? Most Skylines have one installed by compliancers as part of the import compliance rules. Mine looks like a vintage amplifer knob. =-o

Security: Not sure, just what I have read. Although the gear would be chewed from the constant clicking as the gear keeps trying to turn. I'm sure there must be some way for it to know when to stop moving? So anyway, I just guessed that there would be a dead contact in my heater unit that wasn't telling the gears/motor when to stop turning. Seems people replace their entire heater unit when this happens? I haven't seen or heard of anyone actually fixing it themselves without replacing the whole unit.

I'm not sure which bit you're talking about. Then again, a Laurel may be a different procedure than what I know for taking the door skins off. My VP Berlina had inner chrome strips, and they just popped out with a screwdriver and a lot of cringing. I eventually replaced them all with new items anyway.

If it's an inline fuse, start with 10 if you have it, and if it blows, then work your way up. They're what? 30 cents each? Go for it! Oh, and I use the same fuse as my head unit and amp use. 10 for HU and 30 for amp. They've never blown. Too low is better than too high. If you DO get a short, you don't want to come back to a car on fire and say "oh... maybe the fuse was TOO strong" ;o) Correct me if i'm wrong, but a fuse on an amp will protect the amp? The idea of an inline fuse is to protect the wiring from catching fire if it shorts out on the body of the car somewhere.

Oh, and I had to taper the edge that sits against the rear windscreen. The MDF was so thick that it hit the windscreen higher than the stock one, which put the whole shelf off by half an inch. I used a belt-sander and gave it a 30 degree angle.

Lol! It looks like my parcel-shelf, but with 6x9's. I did the same thing about 8 months ago with 10 or 12mm MDF, and put 6.5" speakers in there. Cutting out the slots for the air-buffer things was pretty difficult. How did you do it? I used a chisel for the bits where the plastic clips had to go in, and they wedged in there quite nicely. Where the metal bracket/clips were, I took off the metal dooby and bought some self-tapering screws that went into the little holes very nicely. I replaced the two push-in clips with long bolts and big washers. The metal part of the parcel tray actually had bolts factory welded underneath, so it was just a matter of buying the right thread bolts. Good job man!

Hazard/Demister sold pending payment.

Yeah agreed. Multimeter onto each socket to test ground and power. Compare it like you would a compression test. Then, replace ALL brakelight globes (4, twin element as mentioned) with some new, clear, good quality globes. (prolly cost you less than $20). Pay attention to the wattage of the ones that come out. Go higher if you like, or just match all the new ones with the same rating. Don't touch the glass. Use a tissue or something. Grease on a globe helps kill it. Clean the contacts inside the globe holder if they look nasty. With the lights off, there should be no power to the sockets, so you can wrap a bit of steel wool around your finger and then stick it in there and give it a good scraping. Blow on it afterwards to get the dust/rust/corrosion out. That last sentence sounded very sus! Anyway. Good luck!

Also, remove the clear plastic to get to them. While you're there, you'll see that the bottom of the window is FILTHY because it never comes all the way out. Remove the drainage plug from the bottom of the door, if it has one. Mine just has little slits at the corner of the door. Grab a hose, put it on gently, get some carwash or window cleaner... whatever you like, and then clean it through the large opening in the door. (pretty obvious when you have the doorskins off) Wind the window up a little so you can get to the very bottom. If you do this without the dirty pads in there, make sure you have someone holding the window and guiding it, otherwise the window will rub and scratch on whatever metal it can find.

The brushes are adjustable to some degree. If you remove the door skins, you will see them attached to a 8-10mm bolt. I think you could be able to clean them like this: Wind window down Take off door skins Using a coathanger, cup the pad from the top, so it doesn't fall in. Unbolt them completely (8-10mm bolt I think) one at a time. Using the coathanger, slide them up the window and into your hand. Clean or resurface the pad Reinstall.

They prolly connected to an oil catch can which was removed before your old man bought it. On my gtst, the left side goes (via an s-bend rubber pipe) into the front of the inlet manifold. Look for something blocked off. The other side goes down towards the turbo, but I haven't really followed it before. Just search for engine bay pics mate. You can probably compare.