RANDY

silicone? i'd be pretty tempted to do it with glue... silicone doesn't stick as well as i'd like it... fine for plumbing, but I think with heat and metal surfaces it may come loose? No other ideas, sorry! It completely misses for half a second to a full second when booting it, right? If so, it's the right problem for the solution, but it could be a number of other things.. Possibly fuel pump leaning out, or ECU retarding timing if you're running higher boost... too many variables. =-[

I loosened the seat-bolts.. bum and back. Then lifted them up half a meter and just poked the RCA's through one of the little holes that go into the boot. There is already a wiring harness that runs up that way, so turn on and test the unit before you put the carpet, seats and stuff back in. Interference in the RCA's is a common problem in R33's it seems.

Sure there are digital set top boxes... you might be able to run an inverter to power a 240v little box from the boot? As far as the one you have now, I doubt you could easily boost the antenna without chopping that 3.5mm headphone jack. I'd be tempted to go the set-top box... see if there is a 12v model, and then run a y-adapter off your antenna plug. I know that TV antennas need to be designed to handle digital TV, and most pre-digital antennas do actually work... so i'd give it a go with the built-in antenna!

I recken... if the motor in the driver door is stuffed, it wouldn't trigger the passenger door. Using the key physically moves the lock, which triggers the passenger door. If you unlock the passenger side with the key, does the drivers come up? Do you know if it used to before the problem?

Nope. I have seen some consult software claim that it can do diagnostics on the hicas unit etc. Most software will show whether the A/C fan is on or off... simple stuff like that, but there is no full diagnostics via the consult for this. As soon as you install a PFC, the consult port will stop working completely... so I doubt you'd get anything additional to the ECU.

5000rpm problem has it's own thread somewhere too. Turns out that 90% of the time it's due to hair-line cracks in your coil pack(s). Aroldtite(sp?) seems to be the best compound for sealing the crack.

Back of the inlet manifold (plenum) there's a blocked off (yellow plastic) hole, and a pipe that runs to your stock boost sensor. Next to the yellow plasticy bit, there is a screw there. I did a search and finally found the brilliant post that I was looking for! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=110431&hl=

Chris is on the money. The box for the sub is important. Most (if not all) speakers and subs will have a recommended sealed box size, and ported box size. You need to keep to this to have the correct frequency response. Too large, and the driver will flop around to its maximum throw, and kill the voice coil. Too small, and the pressure behind the driver will stop the cone from moving as it should. Some drivers come with a rating in "VAS" (I think that's Volume Air Size), which is represented in Litres. Smaller subs may say 10L box ported, 12L sealed. Get a good amp, as good as the money you have will buy, then select speakers as you see fit, then get a reasonable sub and make sure the box is the correct size. You should come up trumps!

Oh, I mention that because braking would clamp the caliper, and take the wobble away if the wheel bearings were stuffed. I'm pretty sure that's how it would go.

LOL! There is also such a thing as a "high speed" wheel balance. Most places will just do a standard one, i'm not sure how fast the wheel spins in their balancer, but the high-speed balance should spin it up to 100+. I didn't mention the braking wobble (which I have severely right now) because you said nothing about braking. If you brake and it goes away, it would suggest that you need a wheel balance or possibly check out your wheel bearings!. Jack the front up (off the crossmember, never off the sump), then grab the top and bottom of the tyre, and try to pull the top towards you and push the bottom away. It's like checking a turbo for shaft-play, your wheel should have pretty much zero play. If it does, it will cause some wobble, and may even fail rego!

Well, disconnect throttle position sensor (big black box on throttle body) start car rev few times adjust idle screw check revs by looking at the dash. Should be 650-700rpm I beleive? Check the sticker under the bonnet somewhere. turn car off reconnect TPS. Timing can be checked using SydneyKid's guide. He wrote it up as part of a timing belt change on a Stagea, look in the model-specific section. No pics from me! I'm going to work in an hour or so.

Shaking isn't due to a bad wheel-alignment, it'd be due to a bad wheel BALANCE. Take your car down to a tyre-place, and get them to rebalance your wheels. They place a counterweight to stop that shaking at speed. I'm assuming you only really feel this shake above 70ish? If so, it's not hard for them to miss it, if they don't drive it far or fast.

Get the 100 or 130wrms jaycar amp man. Leave the gain down, and you won't be clipping your speakers. Anything less, and your sub will probably distort....

Crickey! Sounds expensive?

The reset will force the ECU to relearn the knock from the type of fuel you're using. It shouldn't affect the stock boost controller though. It may be using less fuel though. The o2 sensor has three wires as you say. One is signal (black) and the other two are heater wires... I think they just have power through them? It only gets used at idle anyway, so it shouldn't affect regular driving. It should read between 0v and 1v, so yeah, possibly incorrect setting on the multimeter? My series2 injectors are purple, and look original, so i'd say yes.

To set the base idle, I think you have to disconnect the TPS first. The revs should drop, and that is your base idle at which you can tune. The ECU does the automatic choke kind of action to keep it alive, or keep it high when cold etc. I use a consult cable and software, and most of the software allows you to adjust the base idle.

A good condition stock R33 series 2 turbo can be had for around $500 in the FS section here. Whack it on, then sell your turbo as it is, cause there'd be a few people interested in it for a high-flow jobbie. Blown turbo's sell on ebay for $200, so you'd get some money back.

They're 6.75", like some Pioneer models are. I think you'd have a far better chance of being able to screw them into the plastic pod where the originals were. Mine were 6.5", and the screw-holes in the speaker were *slightly* too close to the inside hole of the pod. I made up a little bracket adapter and made some new holes in the pod. (that's what I meant about bodging it a bit). If you're budget-constrained, and just want a *better* speaker than stock, check out the Pioneer ones. TS-A1780R is one model. It's 4-way, so you don't have to worry about mounting a tweeter anywhere. (although that is the preferred option, because the door-speaker mounting gives poor staging)

I can't find any info on the weconic... if you have any, could you please PM it to me? Ta!

The blue was sound-deadening... it's just pyramid-shaped foam to disperse sound waves. (gets rid of echo) The black stuff is sound deadening... again, it's best for high-end sort of stuff where you have the speakers and system to make the most of it. The baffles everyone refers to, I beleive are the home-made pods that the speakers sit into. With a little time and judgement, as Chris says, you can whack 6.5" speakers straight into the stock pod where your old speakers were. If you want to be sure, take the pod out, and take it into the store that you are buying speakers from, and ask if you can sit a couple in the pod. Chris: 6.75" eh?? That's what I was thinking with my estimate of 7". I know I can be pedantic sometimes, but the 6.5" look strange mounted in there!

LOL! I have been looking at that unit for a while actually! I was a bit concerned about how hard it may be making it sit in a hole, but the gland option is always there. Threaded like the o2 or cat sensor would have been nice though. Weld/tap job looks good!

A comprimise would be to do what I did? Bought a guage, hooked it up, dialled in 7psi on the controller, using the boost guage to confirm, and then I noted where 7psi on the stock guage is. Boost guage is now unplugged, with the hose sitting tied up in the enginebay. If the controller fails somehow, i'll see the boost go higher than +5000 millimeters of mercury on the stock guage, I know something has happened. If I need to raise the boost, I can easily hook my guage back up again. I'm not worried about the price of a guage, like you are, i'm worried about the rice-factor of having a big guage in my car! =-p

I'm planning to mod a stock R33 muffler. Chop off the in and out pipes, then weld on bigger pipes, open up the muffler, and convert it into a "straight through" kind of design using baffled tubes. Making it fit the Nismo 3" catback section will be tricky, methinks! Currently looking for a used muffler, so I don't have to cut mine up!

Rich parents probably want their kids to work hard and learn to appreciate a dollar, rather than raising spoilt kids (Paris Hilton?) My kids will cop everything I did! My first loan was for $3K to buy a car when I turned 18!

wow! Great read, Mearcat! I only want the intake temp... would you suggest that a thermistor for budget/heat-range? Pity that I can't find a decent threaded temp probe with display... I spent aaages making the consult cable, and I don't have much time on my hands these days. =[