RANDY

Oh.. and add my vote for "no neons", unless you want to volunteer your car as a back-drop in the next "Too Fast, Too Furious" movie =-]

Looking at the pic, it looks like the clear has come off, and the metal is oxidising now. The metal polish or equivalent will make that area look nice, but the border between the clear and "no clear" will always be there until you get that rim repainted.

I don't see any harm in posting it up, many have... but many of us can look it up (including me)

Hey mate! Are you willing to stretch to $150 for the mounts + shipping to Sydney? Please PM me your reply! Cheers!

I'd say, just quote the numbers you have to Bearing Industries, and they'll have the suitable one for you, at a fraction of the price! BTW: Hootchy's info is the post that I was referring to. I will be calling to get those parts for myself in the next week or two. =-]

3 screws at the bottom of the trim. Unclip the surround for the door-lever. Unscrew the hand-pocket on the window switch panel. Pop the whole panel out and unplug it. Tug gently from the bottom to the top to pop the plastic clips out, and you're away! Lift the whole trim up when it's unclipped.

I'm sure someone has come across this before, but i'd be interested to know if it's definately the right ECU for your car? Series 1 and 2 shouldn't make a difference, should it?

Doesn't sound worth it for the money... I bought my Black, 2 door, series 2, manual, R33 GTST about 8 months ago for $16K. Clutch was dead, and battery was dead. Battery is $100, and the clutch turned out to be an incorrect carrier in the gearbox, which toasted my new $350 clutch. All in all, i'll have spent $1000 ontop to get it perfect... the paint is immaculate, the trim is immaculate...etc... So if you have an R32 at the same money, you'd want it to be 100% before you buy it, and it doesn't sound like this guy will tell you of any problems that the RACV doesn't pick up on. Shop around, get a nicer R32 or an R33... resale value on 32's are going to dip really hard as more R34's come out and s2 R33's come down.

Search SAU. Someone posted up a place that did both for under $100

If you treat it right, and you're just street driving, it'd be pretty safe to say that you'll sell your car first.

Well good luck with it! I don't have a lot of experience with coolers, but it looks like a genuine Trust? Is that the logo laser-etched into the top? Also, could I get in contact with you regarding the location of the bolts/screws to remove a front bar?

Heh! They certainly don't do much! Heath: Did you run the head unit off the floor or seat? Or was it still sitting in the bay? As mentioned earlier, I found a harness that runs in that bay-area, and behind the AC unit that has MASSIVE electrical interference. I could hold the rca's near it, and the whine was louder than the music (at mid-levels). If you can't test it that way, then grab a 3.5mm stereo mini jack (same as your earphones) to RCA cable. 3.5mm->2xRCA Plug in your walkman/ipod/whatever into the minijack, then the RCA end goes into your RCA cables (in or outside the car, test both) and see if the noise is there. If you still have noise, then your head unit is ruled out. It's either your RCA cables, their positioning, or your amp. Run the rca's from the amp straight out the boot, and use the ipod plugged into them, so you're nowhere near the body. If that is still noisy, change your RCA cable... use a short one to test with the ipod to the amp. Grab one out of your TV/DVD player and test with it. If the noise is still there, try and borrow a friends amp, and retest all of the above. Turn your gains down on the amp. Put a massive earth on the battery.

Linky no workie! Heath: yeah, one of those large capacitors should fix your dimming problem. I beleive your main earth should be bigger than any other earth wire you run, so it might pay off to have an auto sparky make up a really thick grounding cable for your battery. Jaycar noise suppressors made absolutely no difference for me, if that's what the link was for.

Ah, I see your post edited. Thanks! Will let you know =-]

Don't bump! Answer our questions! =-p

Damn straight, eh!? Paul, he mentions above that the motor is a 97 model, and his avatar info says he has a 1994 R33... which is how I put the two together. =-]

36 pages is well deserved for such a cheap, simple, effective product! Like Alien said... i've set mine to 7psi (no mods) instead of doing the solanoid trick, and because it is not a bleed system, it winds on boost so much quicker than before! I boost at about 2200rpm at 7psi, and the stock setup would boost at 3000rpm at 5psi (dual stage stuff).

On that note of ECU's and motor swaps... The series 2 motor doesn't run the ignitor on the top of it, it's run from the ECU. How did your mechanic get around this? Swap ECU's, or do something funky with another ignitor?

No worries... i've never seen it in anyone else's car, and noone seems to have ever heard of it before, but from what you describe, it's EXACTLY what mine does. VERY lound clunk, and that seat-belt tension thing is wicked.

Looks like a fancy air purifier. Heaps of R32's come to Australia with passive air filters or little electronic boxes, but htis looks like a special purifier made for cars. Still, it's a guess.

Exhaust cam gear any good for R33 motor? Neg on price? Cheers!

Oh is THAT why!? I've been annoyed by that for ages now!

Ermm.. Nissan FAST has a parts section that shows equivalent part numbers, but I haven't looked at it much. I should be able to pull the genuine numbers for you, and you should be able to order them from Nissan at a reasonable price.

Umm.. no, I didn't. I found it when I made my new parcel-shelf. This is why a couple of shots are through the rear windscreen. =-] The second pic shows the location. It's kinda under the parcel tray, but adjacent to the rear seat. Oh, there's that little box that noone knows what it is for! Sits in the left bracket under the parcel tray in Series2's. The same bracket on the right-hand side is empty. Something to do with fuel, apparently. But yeah, the seatbelt tensioner! Way cool, eh!? Looks to be an Aussie thing done, possibly during compliance. I don't think there is any way to "fix" the noise, cause it's a mechanical device. You could try unplugging it and having just regular spring-tensioned belts. There is still a spring in them like normal belts, so this should work, and the teeth that grab the belt if it moves a certain speed should still work too. Best to test this though. The third pic is of the front passenger belt. I had the rear passenger quarter-trim off to fix some broken clips and to run some RCA cables. It too looks to be wired for something, but it is not noisy, only the rears in my car. Hope it helps! I love gadgets!

The only thing you might want to do, is reset your ECU and force it to relearn off the better fuel. It might advance the timing for you a bit and get a little more power/economy. =-]