RANDY

You can do it with an internally waste-gated system. There are screamer pipes that are of the same flange-design as the split dump pipes. The only difference is that instead of the wastegate side rejoining the split dump further down, it just vents to the atmosphere. Pretty sure they're illegal in NSW too... and i'm not sure if you would get any gain going that way rather than a nice split dump.

"With the highest level of quality, all products sold by us are backed with a 12 month warranty."

No offence, but i'm not surprised. I tend not to buy from any seller that puts incorrect spelling and poor grammar in their product description.

Parts, or just one part?

Naww.. i read over 50 search results on SAU, and noone ever seems to get it fixed. On other sites I came up with a few good ones. 1) HU not earthed well enough 2) RCA ground fuse blown in HU 3) Amp ground fuse blow So anyway, yesterday I bought even better RCA cables from Jaycar (hifi ones, not their car ones) and ran them from the boot, outside the car, into my HU. My rear RCA outs were perfect. No noise no whine nothing! The front outputs were hideous with static, but no whine. I turned the gain on my amp down, and now there is no noise at all! I suspect that my HU has a blown ground fuse, but I can't find it. (might be a resistor that is stuffed). There were guides about checking the resistance (ohms) across the RCA cables etc, which mine all passed. Anyway... my fix was simply to replace the RCA cables and turn the gain down. I ran them down the same path as they were before, and my problem is solved. I did hear people mention that some amps did it for them, and others did not. Some cheaper, some more expensive. In any case, here is the list of "to try" (in order) 1) Run new, high quality RCA outside the car. If noise persists, it's not your cables 2) Use a 3.5mm stereo mini-jack to RCA cable and play your ipod or whatever through the RCA cables. If noise persists, it's not your Head Unit 3) Swap amps If noise persists, you might have grounding issues or two dud amps. I hope it helps, but i'm stoked that I finally have my setup nailed after 3 full days of ripping shit apart!

My local Nissan dealer can get one for me the next day for $100. That's a series 2 R33 box.

Yeah, the ones in the store were the right size, and the ones I ordered online were the right size (3mm). Problem is, they're orange, and the catalog people recken they should be clear. Now I have bright orange buttons. =-/ I've been told by the catalog people that 8130 has yellow wires, and that signifies that the globe lights up white/yellow (lightbulb basically) Correction! They are 5mm, and this 8130 the guy gave me is 3mm, which will be too small. Might have to do the LED thing... I don't see any easy way of getting clear or blue out of a bulb. (since noone has them!)

Just been tooling around with my old amp. Installed it with thick cables etc etc. Good RCA's and so on. I get whine and static. Most of the whine seems to come from a factory harness that runs across and behind the A/C unit, and down the left hand side of the head unit (where it goes to a yellow plug), then across the bottom of the head unit. The ciggy lighter wiring joins into that harness too. If I hold the RCA cables close to that factory harness, the whine is incredibly loud! I tried aluminium foil over both sets of cables, no change. If I keep the RCA's well away, the whine dies down considerably. Now i'm stuck in the same situation where the sound is JUST there, and annoying me. None of my previous cars have ever had any troubles with this amp, or any form of RCA wiring that i've put through it. Could we hear from people that have run one or two sets of RCA cables from the HU to the boot without any issues?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...106429&hl=exedy http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Exedy-Heavy-Duty-Cl...1QQcmdZViewItem

So you're saying that they are both push-type.. both series1 and 2? In which case I really don't understand why a lot of people advertise Exedy clutches for R32 and R33 series 1 when they infact fit series 2. =-o

ARGH! They're bloody ORANGE as well! I called DSE online, and the guy reckens the blue-look of the picture is just due to photography, and the part 8130 is clear.

A chammoise can soak up puddles of water if it's really bad.

Yep. I bought some from the store and they're bloody ORANGE! =-/// I have ordered three from DSE online, $3.68 total, and free delivery! They arrived yesterday, and hopefully they are BLUE this time! Huge box, lots of air-bubbles, and three TINY globes in it. I'm sure the free shipping cost more than the globes did! =-D

Check it out, but my rear started to come loose like that. If it's not the carpet coming off the cardboard, then you might be able to pry the roof lining down a bit more, and you'll see three pads which are velcro'd to the roof (metal), and superglued to the cardboard. On my car, the pads had let go of the roof-lining, and it was just a case of squeezing some glue on the bastards. =-]

True, but it's a sensor of the inside air, so I think it's relevant. If the A/C thinks it has reached the desired temperature, it will stop cooling beyond that temperature. If it thinks the cabin is -5 degrees, then sure, it'll blast hot air to bring the temp UP to 18 degrees if thats what he's set it to. To everyone else: We're talking Series2 R33, and everyone else is talking R32. I'm not even sure the diagnostics on the A/C unit are the same button-combo on the R33?

I'm of the kin that; if it was there from factory, there's a good reason for it! When you start modifying turbos and dumps, you need aftermarket shielding or ceramic coating. Stuff catching on fire doesn't sound like fun. =-]

That's a bold statement, and i'm willing to believe it because a few people have actually bought and used Exedy clutches in their series 2 R33's. I have found Greg to be correct also, finding a lot of proof that the series 2's are the pull-type. Mechanically, I'm not clear as to where the pull or push originates. My clutch slave pushes on the fork, witch then pulls the pressure plate away from the friction plate. It looks to be the same as my mates R32 GTR... so i'm at a loss with that!

4 channel amp to run 4 speakers, sure. If you're running the sub, you'd need a 5 channel or a 4 and a seperate amp to drive the sub. By hacking the parcel-tray, he means: cut the metal underneath the wooden parcel tray. Never do this! As mentioned, it's structural, and shouldn't be messed with for the sake of fitting speakers. I've heard that 6x9's will fit with a spacer, but that just looks too bodgey for my likings. =-] If you're running a sub, you just need nice 2 or 3-way 6.5" drivers for rear "fill"... they don't really need to produce much bass at all. (that's the subs job!)

I got those plugs for closer to $100 from autoone, and i'm not sure if the water-wetter is worth doing, but otherwise it looks good!

Thankyou, Greg I guess it has to be something to do with that =-]

Bought my car with a TurboSmart atmo BOV on it. Did the same thing, but only if I pulled up hard with the clutch slammed in and the brake on. Bought a used standard BOV, stuck it on, never looked back =-]

I've put a "tap" type boost controller on my completely stock R33 (apart from K&N panel filter in the stock airbox). I'm running 7PSI, and due to the mechanism of the controller (as mentioned a few times) my boost comes on a lot earlier than it used to. Also, i'm running 7psi all the time, not just over 4500rpm. I never give it hard hits on a hot summer day, and I will be putting an R34 cooler in soon. I think the question is too general, and should read something like "Who agrees it is stupid to boost a car beyond its potential", in which case we'd all agree. Mine's boosted for its mods, and others will naturally gain boost from their mods. (rampod, zorst etc)

Me? No. I never said they didn't. I'm just asking why so many other people say they don't. Check the for sale section for exedy clutches if you want to ridicule someone.

Classic! I hope it sends a few messages out. =-]

Just incase you were going to ask! (Manual transmission only) CLUTCH: Friction plate: 30100 Pressure plate: 30210 Bolts for p.plate: 30210A MOUNT: (RB25DET) Gearbox mount (rear motor mount): 11320 Gearbox crossmember: 11340 MASTER CYLINDER: (RB20E, RB25DE, RB25DET) Master Cylinder: 30610 Push Rod: 30631 Piston Kit: 30610K SLAVE CYLINDER: (R33GTS4, R33GTST) Slave Cylinder: 30620 Piston Kit: 30620L CLUTCH RELEASE: (RB25DET) Clutch release bearing: 30502 Clutch release sleeve: 30501 Bearing/sleeve spring: 30514 Fork: 30531 Fork spring: 30534 ELECTRONICS: (RB25DET) Neutral switch: 32006M Reverse switch: 32005