RANDY

LOL! And thanks... I've seen 6 different people (3 on SAU, 3 on eBay) post up Exedy button-clutches, and the description always says something along the lines of "R33 up to '95". It's just weird that they all got this info from SOMEWHERE (suspect Exedy site?) and pasted it up.

Are series 2 R33 clutches opposite to the series 1??? And then why is it only Exedy clutches that claim this. (i've seen 6 new clutches advertised, and each seller pastes that text in their description)

I think he means: turbo -> super -> intake. That way, the super pulls air through the turbo for low-end, but when there's enough exhaust to spool the turbo, it will force air through the super.

Something to do with fuelling? Only difference at idle is that there isn't air rushing into the intake. MAF sensors?

I can't find any info on Automate alarms? Do you have a link or anything? I saw all these cool "remote start" and LED-keyring alarm systems around, but went with a mainstream brand because I didn't trust the security of the others. (you can buy spare remotes that are programmable by "the customer".) If it is a decent 3-point immobiliser, with an alarm on door entry, and has a backup battery in the siren, then they could have only really taken your car via a flat-bed truck or tow-truck!

That Nissan Micra (March) had a bypass for its super/turbo setup. I'm not sure of any easier way?

Noone can tell me why Exedy clutches don't fit series 2 R33s! I've asked 5 people selling all sorts of Exedy clutches, but they don't know. At least everyone is honest and doesn't remove the "R33 92-95" bit. Some guy on eBay just replied to me with "it will fit". Rather contradictory! Does anyone know why Exedy clutches all claim they'll fit up to 95 models, but no later?

NOT JBL 6.5"!! I finally got around to putting my old amp in the car, and these new 6.5" speakers are terrible! I'm going to pull them out and put Jaycar's kevlar 6.5" woofers in there, then run them off the amps crossover. Hopefully I won't need to put my sub in the boot!

Have you checked the coilpacks? If not, they could be floating in water for all you know? =-] Remove the coil-pack cover, and let it dry in the hot hot sun for a while =-]

There is some HKS cooler that uses your existing piping-holes on the right-hand side. The cooler comes with the rest of the piping, which includes a 180 degree turn. The return outlet on the left of the cooler turns around and travels below the core, back to the factory holes for piping. The bend isn't terribly nice to have, but you don't need to hack your left-hand side to run pipes in and over your fan, and the cooler forces the air to travel the whole intercooler.

Of course an aftermarket boost controller is illegal! =-p So are ECU's, pod-filters etc. =-]

LOL Cubes! I know what you mean! My VP V8 Berlina used to let go in a straight line and instantly start hanging the butt out. Catching it or holding it was nowhere as easy as my current R33 S2. It just gliiiiides... with just a little steering input and a feather on the throttle. Completely different =-]

I like your last idea. There is a thread in the "drivetrain" section covering similar noises. If you can push your clutch in, and the noise stops, then I think that was indicative of it being your spigot or thrust bearing in the gearbox?

I don't see why not? If you can, have a look at the mounting on an Rb25, and sus out the wiring harness for it. The two motors are pretty similar in terms of layout, and don't forget that some R33's had 2L motors in them too... I doubt they'd be any stronger in terms of amperage output though... what "died" about yours?

Yeah, you pretty much just want to clean it without damaging it. So no chemicals or wire brushes or anything.. A good blast of carby cleaner should clean up the mesh on the AFM and the wire in the middle without damaging anything. Popular move is to remove the intake side of the mesh... there should be a mesh on both sides, so we're talking about the one closest to the intake manifold or plenum.

Yeah, you really do feel much more in control of a vehicle when it is manual. It's also a lot more fun than sitting there thinking "Press go to go, press stop to stop, turn wheel to turn". =-p If you avoid rainy days for a month or so, you should be pretty good on the ol' manual box by then. If the R33 is stock, it wouldn't be particularly easy to light up the wheels unless you really dial up the revvs... but like I said, give it a month or so of driving, and you'll know where the revs should be for your clutch, and you'll hear what the motor is doing. Learning manual, no matter what car it is in, is pretty exciting and thrilling. I taught my girlfriend about 4 months ago in a Honda Civic 1984 sedan. We bought the car to teach her manual, and now she's shifting through the gears trying to race WRX's and wanting to go for a drive "just for fun". =-]

Nice! If my parents ever drove around in a 200sx or skyline... god... don't make me go there!

Nah, I fill up when it *looks* empty on the guage, and it always takes 50L. I was only mentioning that, so I could accurately measure what my fuel economy is. Other quick method is to "fill 'er up", reset odometer, drive for a day, and fill up again. Measure how many k's you did compared to how much fuel you had to put in to fill it back up. All I can see so far is that mine sucks! Even though it doesn't really run rich (according to consult programs), and there is no fuel smell, it drinks like a camel!

Covered many times. Search for a thread called "how to properly clean your AFM with carby cleaner" Otherwise, take it out, blast it with CC or contact cleaner.

Cleaning the sensor is pretty easy. Firstly, find the post on installing a head unit, this will show you how to remove/loosen the dash. 2) Where you have that little grille in the dash, next to your antenna-control button, on the inside of the dash piece, there is one screw holding the sensor to that grille. 3) Disconnect the rubber hose from it. (should be very easy, and it could already have fallen off) 4) Unscrew the sensor assembly, admire the dust-coated wire 5) Blast it with compressed air or contact cleaner. 6) Admire shiny clean sensor 7) Reinstall and test with the dash apart.

Interesting... about the closed-loop idea. If the O2 sensor is really stuffed, then it is leaning it out too far? I'd still check the MAF though, and give it a good clean with contact-cleaner (aerosol in a can) Then, give a consult program a little look, and see what the MAF and O2 is doing when it almost stalls.

As above. If you run the speakers from the headunit, then you can tool around with the settings as much as you like, because the RCA outputs to your amp (which drives the sub) are a "line-level" output that is not affected by your bass/mid/treble settings on the headunit. The amp will almost certainly have a variable crossover built into it, where you can cut out the higher end frequencies going to the sub. If you are running the speakers from the amp, then you should look at a 5 channel amp, so each set (front/rear/sub) are independantly adjustable. Your last option, if the smaller speakers are getting too much bass, is to buy a bunch of resistors and work out which ones you need. Wire the right resistor into the positive of each wire going to the smaller speakers, and you should be able to cut the bass right out! I wired in resistors and capacitors to my home theatre speakers to seperate bass/mid/treble (same way a passive splitter does). They work a treat!

Pull the doortrim off, then pull the speaker pod out. Take that down to an audio place and see what will fit. Like everyone said, anything should fit. I put $200 worth of Clarion splits in, and they are 6.5", and it was perfect. They even came with some rings for the speakers... one of those rings was round on the inside, and hex-shaped on the outside. It fitted perfectly into the pod-shape. =-]

A multimeter could be your best friend. Black tester to ground somewhere, then red wire to the remote wire in the boot, and have someone turn your headunit on. See if there's any power there at all. It really does sound like your amp (and your test amp) are simply not turning on? How is the amp powered? Is there an inline fuse? Check your power wire with the multimeter!

I get 350 to a tank. By "tank" I mean I fill up when it's pretty much empty, and it usually takes exactly 50L. So I get 7km's per litre. =-[