RANDY

But it's an old joke... so you might not get a laugh =-]

I use menthol Listerine mouthwash. Now I have fully sick blue xeon headlights!

I think they only took it because they didn't want to sit around unscrewing it from the shared AC/HU bracket. Theives aren't very considerate like that. =-/ Anyway, does the A/C harness go into the dash anywhere that you could unplug it from? I'll see if I have a pic of the GTST one, I don't see why it would be different! Hopefully you can just buy a new harness and unit, and strap it back together!

LOL, Dan! hahahah God... that show is starting to p1ss me off severely.

Same thing using organic single plate RPM kit. I've posted in Starion's thread too... at least i'm not alone anymore! =-D

Mine did the same thing. Bought the car with a dead clutch (really heavy single), replaced the clutch, fine for three weeks, then started slipping... then it got worse and worse till it was practically undriveable. Shortened the rod on the slave cylinder, and it came good again. A month or so later now, and it's slipping in 3rd and 4th if I put the boot in. I tried to adjust that pedal-rod, but it wouldn't budge! (removed split-pin and all) My mechanic thinks there's something else wrong though, because my pedal has about 3mm free play, then it's just stiff... all the way to the floor. Takeup seems to be right near the top of the pedal-motion. I'm stuffed for ideas, and it sounds like my clutch has been nuked in the process. =-[

My mech reckens 300-400 for him to do mine. I have the same kind of slipping, but I have other issues in the gearbox that has rooted my clutch prematurely.

You can get a new one from www.nismo.com.au (UAS) that has bearings on it. They don't mention a part number though. If someone has a second, they can look it up in FAST though... i'm at work sorry. =-]

Gawd.. what kind of BOV did you buy?? If it's at a set pressure, like the stocker, surely the paperwork that it came with would mention it?

First post updated and shortened! I'm having issues sending PM's to all those who were interested but have not replied yet. I'll try again today. =-]

I think I know when something is WAAAY over my head! =-]

First post updated, and I have sent out PM's to those who expressed interest. Lemme know if you didn't get them, because I can't see them in my "sent items". =-[

Sounds like a power issue. Either a shonky battery, or a shonky alternator, or a shonky ground on the battery. First thing to try is re-grounding the battery. Replace the negative cable with a new one, with new ring-clamp things, and clean up the area that it bolts to the chassis. This should fix a lot of things, but failing that, check your battery out. =-]

Only my left side gets it, but the water is supposed to flow in that location that you describe. It then comes out behind the rear bumper somewhere. I'll be pulling my tail light out soon and re-rubbering it.

A weeks' worth of detox kit bought from Woolies... Oh! Just remove the lower radiator pipe, and watch it flow! Don't do it when it is hot. Once it's all out, remove the top hose, and then stick a garden-hose in the top and give it a good blast until the water coming out of the bottom is clear. =-]

Just don't ask what "OFF" on the A/C unit does... so far i've figured out that it's not a kill-switch for the engine. ;op

I beleive HICAS only operates over 70km/hr, so if it's lighter under that, then I doubt HICAS started working. It's prolly working fine in your car. On top of that, R33's have electric rear steering instead of the 32's hydrolic setup, so you shouldn't feel any different if it STOPPED working. I'd normally guess that you just inflated your tyres, or it was a really hot day and the air in the tyres expanded, but i'm sure you've thought of that! =-]

Nah... if you're really lucky, and you are willing to pay, you MIGHT find an R33GTR shell. I can't even find diecast models of a series 2 r33, let alone a body shell for a 1:10 RC =-[

My HPI R34GTR shell arrived, and i've just finished (kinda) painting it here at work. (nightshift) I'm not sure it'll be ready for Sunday, cause there's some funky stuff that I want to do to it first =-] First post updated!

Keen for DIN compartment. Is it a Nissan one that will fit well or an aftermarket item? Could you please post or PM me a photo? Cheers!

Security: the controller and receiver use a frequency-modulated cystal to communicate. If two people have the same, or very similar frequency, you'll both be controlling two cars each. Interesting, good for a laugh, but then you just get the shyts. Steve and Paul IN! =-D

Andy, mine's just a little 330cca. My factory strut-brace meant that I couldn't run a larger battery. By "larger" I mean; More powerful batteries are usually bigger in physical size too. The R33 Skyline battery holder will allow two different sizes of batteries, but I had to use the smallest type to avoid removing my strut-brace. Warren has a point, if the car is totally stock (read: no alarm an aftermarket ECU/head unit) then it should probably hold the charge for several months infact. You might be able to use a multimeter to ascertain how much current draw is on the battery while the car is off. (apart from the boot light which will be on while you test the battery!)

How much is a new phone battery? I bought mine for $8 off eBay, and I have been car-charging it for over a year and it still lasts a week with an average amount of calls. Seriously, don't worry about it!

In an R33, there is a grommet used by the accelerator cable, which I used with no problems. Dunno about 34's, but have a look to see what else goes through the firewall, and trace on the footwell to see where it will come out.

Put green stuff in it. Preferably one with rust/corrosion inhibitor.