RANDY

Hey mate. I'm doing a similar thing... checking a used one that i'm going to put in my S2. It looks like mine was done a while back, with the knock sensor pins 23/24 joined instead of stubbed out etc. My resistor 141 is a 3-band red black brown (no multimeter on me ATM, but you can work out the value from the colours). Looks as big as the rest on the board, probably a quarter-watt. What i'm looking at now is the fast idle control, which is supposed to be pin 33 on the Z32 and pin 36 on the S2 wiring, but the latest Nistune document just says to cut the track of 33 to stop the light coming on the dash for a false exhaust overheat warning. I'm thinking that it would be wiser to jump 33 over to pin 36 to retain this functionality. Perhaps this step is further down in the guide... one page at a time.

I'm in Sydney, and I have one with a dent on the bottom. I just removed it from my R33 S2 after having it on there for several years. The dent seems to have crushed a whole row of fins at the bottom, but I never had any boost issues so i'm confident it doesn't leak. (visually there is no hole either). I'm in Forestville, 2087. PM if interested.

Thanks for the info! It looks like the GCG highflow I put on my car in the end, except the oil drain bolt spacing didn't line up with my stock piping. Replied to Dee

I have two turbos, one I was told was a rebuilt and highflowed RB25 turbo, but when I went to fit it the oil drain bolt-holes didn't line up. I have since found out that this could be the pattern of an RB20. Shaft play is almost nothing, but I think I can feel *something*... but apparently that's fairly normal for a ball-bearing setup. It has a braided line on it. It also had a HKS actuator, which I removed to use with my highflow. The other turbo I bought as a dead turbo for an R33 RB25 with the intention of highflowing it after the first highflow turbo I bought turned out not to fit my car. No cracks and no bent fins, shaft play is minimal, but there is a coating of oil on the blades, so possibly there is a fault there. I am selling both as dead turbos to have rebuilt (which should be cheaper than having your car off the road while you do some kind of exchange thing). Whether or not they work, I don't know and I don't want to promise but both should be great for highflowing, especially the one that might not need much doing to it! There is one wastegate actuator, which I *think* came off the R33 turbo. All three items for sale as one lot, pick up only because they're heavy and oily. Pickup from Forestville, NSW, 2087. T1: T2:

Far out... It looks like 4-door 33's muddle up my table completely! Where one digit is for ABS and LSD, it's about a sunroof in one car and airbags in another!?

Cripes, that's messy and hard to follow though! I think ours is more comprehensive too? Good find though!

On a four-door, no rear wing is common and the battery is always under the bonnet as the rear seats/doors take up the spot where the 2-dr cars have their battery. (I believe this is the case) Mine doesn't have ABS either, and it was an option on most R33's if i'm not mistaken.

It would be pretty awesome if people posted their options and their option codes so we can try to figure them out. Even if you don't know if your options are standard or not, post them anyway. (for example, I don't have a rear strut brace from factory, but I do have a clarion stereo that I believe was an option over a tape deck.) Mine: GGKBRTFR33VDA-A-AA Rear wiper Front lip Skirts/Rear pods 4 speaker audio Clarion CD player Central locking

There are a few floating around... I did some pretty hard collating and researching (in this thread, and I posted it somewhere).. but here is what I have got so far: MODEL CODE: 01 B=4dr G=2dr 02 GC=RB20E GK=RB25DE(T) GJ=RB26DETT 04 A=2WD B=2WD N=4WD P=4WD 05 R ALWAYS 06 E=GTS+GTS25/S G=GTS+GTS-4+GTS25 Q=GTR+GTR 40th T=GTS25T M1+M2 V=GTS25T/M LSD W=GTR VSpec+GTR N1 07 A=4AUTO F=5MANUAL N=5? 08 R33 ALWAYS 11 E=EGI V=TURBO Z=TWINTURBO 12 D/Z 13 A ALWAYS OPTIONS: 14 Wheels/Tyres 15 A Electrical options 16 ? 17 ? 18 9308-9501 - ABCDEFGHJKLMNPQRSTU A=LSD B=ABS c=LSD/ABS 9501-9601 - 1ABCGJKLMNPTUVW 9601-9702 - ABVD 9702-9706 - ABCDEFGHJKLMQR AFHQ=ABS BGJKLMR=LSD/ABS 9706-9710 - ABCDEFGHJKLMPQR AFH=ABS BGJKLM=LSD/ABS 9710- - ABCDEFGHJKLMPQR A=ABS B=LSD/ABS options: 40th anniversary exhaust butterfly rear strut brace

A few photos here: (but not many)

Poop! I just realised that the Bathurst main race is on Sunday... and we roll the clocks forward an hour. Anyway... got the day off work!

Steveo... i'll put my form and payment through shortly, but is it ok to carry the balance across to the next one if I can't make this one? I missed the last one due to work, and i'm still trying to get my shift covered for Oct 7.

Keen on engine mounts if the sale falls through. Please PM.

Doesn't work for me.

Confirmed as above. That one is A-OK. =-]

That number doesn't work in my system. This one is too new for mine, and will be for most. (v35?)

Generally not. These are Europe Left-hand drive, General(I think?) Left, CAnada Left/Right, and US Left/Right (although they're almost always Left hand drive).... we need JP discs.

Thanks Ryan... always interesting to see where I place (not too shabby this time! #23)

I presume your triple post is because you are getting an error when posting? I've been getting that constantly in this thread. =-o

Checks out!

Not that i'm aware of mate. Sorry.

The VIN you supplied was ECR33 107095, and the VIN in the screenshot that he used was ECR33 010795. User error =-] -Steve

Awesome Chris! Thanks! Although the second and third vid seem like they were my first runs where I had NFI where I was going! ;o) The first clip is the one I recorded in-car... I wonder if I can do some Initial Drift Picture-In-Picture action on that? -Steve

Not sure if Eric was doing much videography, but i'm accustomed to seeing an SAU vid on the youtubes... ;o)