RANDY

AFAIK it should be constantly bouncing around when you're not in closed loop. And it should always remain between 0 and 1v. If you put your boot right in, it'll jump up... but generally it'll move around like a cat in a washing machine.

Mine were not bolted down... there was about two screws in each holding it down. They made dirty big wonky holes in the process, and the rear seats had to come out to get the boxes out. What a nightmare... the Kenwood bit that lights up had power wire running through the boot, over the spare tyre, and tapped into the licence plate lighting! Worst... install... ever!

Search for the R33 PDF manual in the forums. It should have all that info in it. I don't think it's the illegal (english-translated) manual... you can find/use the jap one.

Boiling? have you checked that your thermostat (upper radiator hose) is working correctly? If in doubt, have a mechanic check it out... better than frying a good motor.

Well... it should turn on and off as it reaches your desired temp... i'm assuming this is more serious than that? Possibly your temp sensor is faulty? I don't think it would switch the A/C for more than a minute though.

Nick, don't forget that the bottom of the tank is a bit smaller, so you'll go through the bottom half quicker than the top. I made the mistake of thinking "wow! I've fixed it!" when I got 100 in the first quarter of a tank. I filled on 350km exactly last night. Putting the stock BOV back on doesn't seem to have fixed anything other than getting rid of that noisy "woosh" noise that makes police and old people look at me funny.

I've had two commodores previously. Meh. I think you should be asking "what attracts most morons to Holdens and Fords" rather than what makes Holden/Ford owners such idiots... because they're not all tools. I don't think those Holden owners bought their car then suddenly became morons. =-]

lol! How indeed! I guess it does tell you how to do it... blocking off your BOV. Sounds like we need a new section for "decreasing performance". It can contain large chrome wheels, blocking off BOV's, and buying Chinese eBay manifolds! =-p

I don't think anyone was having starting issues? Definately let me know though, Nick... cause I am still getting that sort of economy.

My amps have always had it, but my mates little Sony amp doesn't have any LED's at all! I'm pretty sure any modern amp has a protect mode, but it seems that they don't all indicate when it is in effect. When his cutout happens, it can stay off for quite a while. I told him that his power could be shorting on the body... he has a large power cable from the battery to the boot, with an inline fuse. I mentioned that the voice-coils could be shorting on the speakers, but when we lifted the parcel tray manually, nothing happened. I was going to loan him my amp to see if the problem persisted, but I don't think he wanted to go through that much effort. I'm still leaning towards a speaker malfunction, which forces the amp to shut down. (protect mode).

yikes... my other suggestion was removing the back seat, as someone said above. There is a middle section of steel behind the seat that can be unbolted. You prolly can't climb through, but you might be able to get a coat-hanger onto the boot latch or something. Best bet is probably with the locksmith... they usually have fine tweezer-like things that can go in and pull the key out.

One advantage is: You would have less chance of break-in or theft... as long as you don't find "any ones that say skyline on it? or nismo or anything?" =-]

Mate of mine has the same problem in his holden barina or something. He has 3-month old speakers and an amp. 6x9 sony's in the parcel shelf and a sony 2-channel amp. There's no lights to indicate that it is going into protect mode (which I suggested to him), and the front speakers don't cut out (running off HU). It only happens 80% of the time he's going downhill... We lifted the parcel-tray up (it's a hatchback) and it didn't happen. Read this post and thought "what are the odds!?"

Could I get a vote on this please? Does your clicking happen only when turning the car on, and then only when you choose "feet" for the fan?

possibly a really strong magnet? Like the one off a car speaker or the magnets out of a hard drive. Pretty damn strong, but I dunno if it'll be enough. Otherwise more drastic action may be required. I dunno if a locksmith can pick it, but i'd bet they've pulled broken bits of key out of locks before. Give a reputable one a call.

Noisy tappets or your timing is way out of line?

Dunno... the exhaust temp sensor scews into the cat, but that's towards the top of the cat. You could check that after jacking the car up (and using car-stands).

The 4wd system uses a seperate ECU in the boot apparently. Have you checked the wiring to that? See if you can probe the power wire or something perhaps?

Hehhehe.. mine does that too! It's an electric tensioner on the seatbelts! When the car is running, pull on the drivers belt... it resists a lot. Turn the car off... CLUNK! Now pull the belt... it's smooth with little resistance. I pulled the rear quarters off when I removed my seat and ran wiring for my stereo, and the belt rolls have an electric something on it, with Australian branding. So I dare say it's an aftermarket thing that was fitted. I have a pic at home if you're interested.

You have those visors out yet? I think this is your third "for sale" thread! Lemme know via PM mate, i'll wire the money across. Are you able to send a pic too please?

That's what I said =-p

You'd think the standard ECU and standard tune on it would give better economy than that though... granted, tuning can yield better power AND economy if done right.

Are you saying that you have read and tried the suggestion above? He DOES mention removing the lights if it's an issue to you.

Yeah... i've changed my sensor TWICE, and it didn't make a lick of difference. I'm not blowing any rich smoke or anything, sparks have been changed to iridium items recently too. Highway driving gets me close to 400k's, gentle driving or not-so-gentle driving makes no difference in town... still get 350 TOPS. No leaks that I can detect either. Fuel filter looks good and clean. MAF is working perfectly but I cleaned it anyway. I've given up on trying to solve this one. =-] Oh... I fill up 50L each time. So 50L gets me 350k's. 7km/L

How about the option of velour vs leather trim? =-p