RANDY

Like... remote start on a timer... some alarms have those. I guess if it starts the car at 8AM for you, and you don't get in it cause you're on holiday or something... it would make sense for it to shut the motor down if you haven't entered the car. I'm guessing for that to work, the alarm would have to be ignorant as to how the car was started. (remote vs key start)

Oh... I was going to suggest; In the interests of testing your alarm features, try starting her up one morning, then doing the seatbelt up and closing the door. See if it dies. Next morning, start her up but leave the door open. I recken if it is related to an alarm, it'd be a safety feature against car-jacking or accidentally locking keys in or something like that.

Nice to see people reading your post properly eh? =-p Only happens when car is warming up/not driven. Doesn't happen after driving and then letting it idle. Doesn't cut out while driving. I'd be interested to see how accurate the timing of it is. Like I said, this will give you a faily good indication of whether it's an intentional thing or a real problem

Oh yes... that's right... they do have a seperate controller in the boot for ATESSA.

That's fantastic, Pete! DIN slot... meh... either in the dash cluster, or I recken this thing could be strapped to the steering-column covers like a Motec display.

MT

My pedal used to squeak. Sprayed some silicone lubricant on the spring part, and it's fine now. The clutch slipping... yeah, it's knackered dude. There is a bar to adjust the clutch freeplay, found up near the spring, but basically you shouldn't ever need to adjust it because it's a hydrolic system.

Could it be some oil from the rear mains seal? You burnt the dripping oil off the flywheel, so it grips again? Dunno.

I'm running stock, and I get those sort of k's. I suspect something elsewhere.

I did the same thing with my install. Using stock pods and some clarion 6.5" splits. Maybe i'm used to my old car and speakers, but i'm not impressed with what I have. The speaker positioning in the Skylines are horrible. I think I need to hear someone elses stereo and compare. =-[

It'll prolly take more than just the morning to do... if it all goes well.

If you get out of the car after it's been running fine, and leave it for 3-4 minutes, would it stall then? Or does it happen PURELY if you haven't moved it? Can you time it? Start your stopwatch and let it run till it shuts off. If it's a perfect number every time, you could suspect some sort of "feature" doing it. If it's random, then you can keep sussing it out.

Wow.. that's odd! Stock ECU? Are you able to get someone with a consult cable to check for error codes?

Under $100 if you look around. Should be a few in the "for sale" section.

For R31,32,33,34 and some other nissan models, you only need a1,a2,a3 images. Dunno where you can get it from man. We all seem to have a copy by now.

Well.. i'd definately do it regardless. If you have good bitey pads, you'll feel the difference. =-]

I could swear you were in my driveway! driveway.bmp

Try posting in the WTB section?

I wish everyone put their location in their control panel settings =-p If you're nearby, I can help you out with it.

When I ring Nissan, they look that stuff up for me. Trying to find it in FAST isn't easy.. the electrical and cooling system are in different sections, and the electrical one is huge and confusing by just looking at diagrams. Where are you located?

Dan... I think I know what you're saying mate. I can still picture what I think is happening in my mind. I'm no brake expert though. *coughfreebumpcough**

OK... I checked mine today, to see if I could narrow down my clicking noise.. It's a cold day today, slightly rainy. If I press "up" on 20 degrees, I hear the actuator move a little, and the air feels warmer. Each time I push it up I hear another little actuator movement, and the air gets consistently warmer until about 30 degrees... my motor was still warming up at that stage. So... based on that, i'd say you may have a problem. I tested using the blower on "face", outside air (not recirculated) and no A/C. Tested on fan speed 1 and 2. AND! My clicking only occurs when I turn the car on, or after that, only when I choose "feet". All the other vents switch smoothly and quietly. (gotta find that other thread now!)

Yep, pic can be found here: http://srandy.com:81 under my brake stopper guide.

I was under the impression that a metal honeycomb can be thinner, with larger cells because the metal heats up much more/quicker than ceramic material does, therefore burning off unburnt fuel etc much more effectively than its ceramic counterpart. The pics i've seen of the Magic Performance cats reveal a "straight-through" design much like straight-through mufflers... It's just a steel tube through the centre of it with lots of holes.

Your cannon muffler is on a flange, right? Unbolt it and see how loud it is. R31Nismoid has got to be on the money... my mate had an R32 GTS4 with an 80mm pipe, no cat and one rear cannon muffler. It sounded like a Mack truck and I could hear him coming down my street. (street is windy and about 300m long)