RANDY

Like said above; the 2L will be pretty sluggish. Mate of mine bought one, and gave me a drive. It had the usual mods, but it was pretty laggy and slow. Handled like a dream though, and he did some wicked stuff on skidpan days. He has an R32 GTR now, and there's absolutely nothing that it's missing. Goes like the clappers, and it's stock! Call Just Car, and get a quote. I'm sure it's not going to be 9K. A quote for HALF of that would make me frown!

The RB motors were designed to handle quite a lot of abuse. Over-engineered to a degree. If it starts and runs without any new noises, you've probably gotten away with it =-]

Oh yeah! That could make sense! Same way the power window on the drivers side will stop when you use auto up/down. It senses voltage resistance and kills the power.

If it actually came out of the cat, make sure you plug the threaded hole back up!

Thread might get closed as you are selling for a friend though. =-]

I second the consult software. $100 for a cable, hook it up to your carpc or laptop, and use the free software. This will show you everything the consult cable puts out. Newkleer is making a new consult software, so I recken it'll be the goods!

Without bars so you can sand it and paint it. Otherwise, replace it if you can. I'm sure a mechanic with a good attention to detail wouldn't pass your next rego like that. =-[ Consulting with a mate who welds stuff to other stuff for fun, he agrees that you'd have to find a way to press the ends back together before you start welding. (if you DIY) And it may have to come out of the car anyway, so if you can source the same part elsewhere, it might end up faster/cheaper or same price.

Weld it.

Hmm... some excellent work, Pete! On a 7" wide, 3 across looks to be the goods! I can live without the boost reading I guess. =-/ When is a beta available of your software? Additionally... has anyone ever tried to emulate the R34's digital screen? I think it would be appealing. =-] (especially if someone could mount the 7" widescreen in one of those triple-guage clusters that are moulded to look like the stock R34 cluster)

Ah! That was you! I was asleep =-] PM sent.

128%! weeee! Lookin' good, Pete! You know what i'd really LOVE? 1) To choose which and how many guages show up. (and for them to re-align depending on window/screen size) 2) To have the program start up and connect to the ECU automatically, and start monitoring, and in full-screen. 3) To show boost from the MAP sensor or something... it doesn't come through the consult port, does it? Anyhoo... if those things existed, then I could finally justify building my car pc with a 7" widescreen touchscreen! =-D

Oh? I could swear that my consult software showed a temp in degrees? =-o I must be wrong, but i'll double-check it tomorrow. =-]

I'm with Links... I would really like to see TPS, O2, and AFM in percentages. Would it be hard to make a few models? One for RB25DET, RB26DETT, RB20DET and maybe a Neo? Would it be a case of signal conversion?

Well.. I made the battery-cover idea that I had illustrated earlier. Used 1200x600x12 MDF. Trimmed it down to size, cut off the angle piece, got some 90 degree brackets and bent them to something like 20 degrees, reattached the angled piece, drilled out the bolt-holes and it fits. Only problem now is either spot-welding the nuts to the back of the stock mounts or working out some other way of bolting/unbolting the damn thing. The bottom sits perfectly on my spare tyre, nice and tight... so hopefully it won't vibrate against the metal anywhere. I've also drawn the line of the strut brace and the floor of the battery-area, and now i'm going to measure that distance up and see what sort of sub I can squeeze in there based on it's magnet size. Then hole-cutting and carpeting. *phew* And this is after a 12 hour nightshift with no sleep!

oh cool. Black32 means: 1) Take out the radiator completely. 2) Stick the garden hose down the top 3) Watch the water flow out the bottom. Pain in the ass, but if you really suspect a blocked radiator, this will tell you for sure. (and also give you a nice radiator flush)

The clutch fan? It should always come on when you start up. When the motor warms, the clutch fan will disengage to the point where it still spins, but will be pretty silent. (and not sap any power) And then it comes back on when the motor gets too hot. I'd bet the radiator and everything was still touchable before you switched it off?

My actuator thing makes that noise, but it doesn't affect my clock or A/C. Everything works perfectly but I wouldn't mind knowing what to do to get rid of that noise! You might want to check the wiring to the back of the dash panel. If the clock isn't plugged in? I beleive the clock backup power is the same as the A/C backup power. (small power given to them when the car is off) So your A/C prob is just one dodgy wire (backup power), which is why it resets. Your clock might have no power at all by the sounds of it.

far out! I asked myself the same question. Many many searches turns up nothing... import parts, ebay, SAU... nothing. The one I have for testing goes to 30psi... as if i'm ever going to run 30psi! =-o -15 to 15 would be nice!

What an ass! Doing the runner! =-o Report it to your insurance company ASAP, with the details that you have. If you have full comp, they will be able to help you out a great deal. If he fails to recognise his fault, you can lodge a damaged property claim with the police. I had to do this for my sister, who was in the same situation. Asian lady in an excel backed into her car and drove off. Police were nice enough to pay her a visit. =-]

Well... most forums will require that you have a minimum amount of posts before being able to sell. We don't want any runners! I think you would have gotten banned for not reading the rules, which will probably tell you about the minimum post requirement. SAU has the same setup... but don't just make random posts about nothing. If you're new to a forum, announce yourself in a new thread, then reply as people ask or comment on your car or whatever the forums theme is.

$350 firm, $350 ono... which is it buddy? =-] $250 plus postage? If so, sold! Please ring me on 0409 772 639 either way. Cheers!

lol! I'll have a go with my limited knowledge! Flange - that bit with bolt-holes so you can put two pipes together! A/R - air ratio? Trim - or "type" of housing on a turbo Split Pulse T4... - two channels. one for exhaust, one for wastegate, into a flange. Inducer is prolly in relation to the compressor wheel side? Exducer is prolly for the exhaust wheel side?

Oh... it was pouring down all day today, so I didn't have a chance. If it's not raining when I get home tomorrow (i'm at work tonight), i'll pull it off and let you know! Looks like you should be able to put it back on pretty easily, yeah?

heh... bottom would stay cold if your waterpump died, right? No flow and no airbubbles when you leave the cap off... would explain that too.

Yeah, boost tap, not bleed valve. They don't allow any wastegate creep until you reach your maximum desired boost level, then it opens up and allows the wastegate to vent.