RANDY

165rwkw isn't bad for a pod and exhaust! You must have spent well over a thousand bucks on that clutch/flywheel setup, right?

Here's my idea... The position of the strutbrace, amp, and sub are not correct, but that's roughly where everything needs to go to fit.

Mark! How did you secure your false wall? That's what i'm looking to do, and mount the amp too. Only difference is that I want the sub in the right-hand side of the false wall.

Yep yep.... i'm trying to do it all without losing any bootspace. My sub and box is the same as d00ds, and it's way too big. Sold the box on eBay for a few dollars.

Well.. that's exactly what i'm planning to build! Dezz.. that should work for you. The back part has enough surface area to hold two amps. I'm going to make a hole on the right-hand side to fit the sub. With the strut-brace, it won't hold a 12", but i'm looking for 10" atm. gw d00dz!

Get black! It'd be cheaper. ;op But otherwise the series3 R33GTR midnight purple would rock!

Good question! I thought it was to curve the airflow up into the AFM. Plastic moulding would be more effective for that, so I recken it IS sound-deadener. I'm going to take mine off and compare now!

gw!

Bingo! It's the power figure i'm looking for. I've got my GTT intercooler, $30 boost tap @ 8psi, and the split dump and exhaust will follow soon.

Money on the thermostat. If it has sealed shut, the radiator cycle stops working, and your water-pump will be pushing water to the radiator, where it gets stopped. That will heat up badly, and then when you stop, it will try and spit it all back out to the overflow bottle.

I did that in my first car... moving the seat back and forth was a biatch. My current and future amps are too large to go under there, plus it'd impede the airflow from the A/C vents under the seat, and then there's the wiring for the belt-buckle that would get in the way. =-]

Millimetres of Mercury (Hg). Different scale of measurement. =-] EDIT: for typo.

That's pretty much the max you want to run. It's all fun and games to wind the boost up and get more power, but you are putting excess strain on a lot of things. You may well find that running 10psi with a really nice cooler could give you more power than 12-14 with the stocker. At least you're guaranteed that you aren't detonating the hell out of your motor. Hot motor + cold air = power. =-]

I was about to suggest that! That or big metal hose-clamps, cause they are harder to distort than cable ties. In any case, it'd be a quick fix type thing that I wouldn't leave in place... change the pipes over, but remember that the motor needs som flex in all the piping, so it might not be a good idea to have all steel piping. Buy some of that blue/purple rigid silicone piping or something.

If it has an allen-bolt on it, it's prolly the tap-kind that we're all buying here. If so, turning the bolt so that it goes inwards will increase the boost, but do it ever so slightly at a time, otherwise you'll overboost very quickly. If nothing happens when adjusting, then you have it installed incorrectly.

Mine's a boost tap, not a bleed valve. I've got mine set at 8psi.

Surely you run the power cables through the other side of the boot lining? It looks too visible through that hole, but otherwise the plank of MDF looks good where it is! I was going to do that with the sub on one side and the amp on the other, but I couldn't see how to mount the MDF securely. Any chance of pics of the actual mounting?

You can polish the outside to get them clear, but the inside might be SLIGHTLY dirty. Doing the outside will make a huge difference, but it comes back after a month or so.

Two probs that I could think of: 1) It's pretty big... it could become the new "lowest part of your car" and get sheared off on a speed-hump or if you bottom out on a street or something. 2) You won't be able to drain it when the motor is still hot... that thing only opens with human hands, and when I drain my oil, it's usually still pretty damn hot. Otherwise, it's a great idea... everyone hates leaky sump plugs and having to change brass washers every 3 services!

Hey no drama's... i'm still sussing the situation out. If I can mount the MDF and I DIDN'T have a rear strut-brace, i'd be set cause my 12" would fit perfectly. I'm looking at 10" subs now, to see if they'll clear the strut brace. Still looking around to see what mounting points I can use, then I'll write up a guide as I build mine. Made my own parcel shelf too... looks so damn good that you would NEVER pick that it's stock apart from the big bolt-heads and washers where the child restrains were.

The two hoses from the stock solanoid can be removed completely. The solanoid can just sit there with nothing connected to it. You're bypassing it completely... although... if you hide the new boost tap, you might want to run some long black hoses in a loop off the solanoid so that it looks connected to something. (sleeper style)

Could be something clogged in the fuel system? Run a bottle of fuel treatment like injector cleaning stuff, and maybe take the coilpack cover off and see how that goes? Stalling and idling like that usually means (if everything else is ok) some sort of vacuum leak. Check all your piping, it's possible that one of them is cracked or something, and with heat, it expands.

If you can read Japanese, Nissan FAST would tell you what options your particular car was brought out with.

loose shifter has nothing to do with fluids or the hydrolic clutch... i'd place money on the circlip having come off or something like that. Although that would mean you could pull the whole stick out by accident, if the rubber boot doesn't hold it in too hard. The theory would work with the gearknob change, as the twisting might have broken the circlip or the two prongs that joins the shifter to the gearbox.

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