RANDY

d00dz... I figured as much. I was looking at a way where I can reuse the brackets that hold the plastic cover in place. They don't feel strong enough to hold thick MDF, a heavy amp, and a 12 or 10" sub. I want it to be very removeable too, so that means minimum tools to get to the battery and service cover. Can't wait to see your install! Maybe instead of a "how much money did you spend on audio stuff" thread, we should start a "post pics of your custom install" thread? =-D

Use a T piece, and another piece of small hose. That way you don't cut the original hose. My mech guage (only for testing) drops to the bottom when off, will come up to -7ish when the motor is idle, will go to the bottom if i'm downhilling it and there is vacuum, and so on... works fine.

Why don't you buy a consult cable and monitor the EGT's through some shareware software? The cat's should already have a sensor in them unless they were removed at some point.

Oh, additional: So many people on SAU asking really basic simple questions on automechanics or asking if they can skimp on this or use a cheaper that... 1) Maintaining performance vehicles is expensive. Budget for it. 2) Getting a cheap-box first will grow your mechanical knowledge much quicker.

Are they paying for the car? Do you live under their roof rent-free? If so, they should make the choice for you because you're dependant on them. In any case, they're just doing the parental thing and looking after your best interests. They're not worried that you'll beat them down Eastern Creek, they're worried you'll kill yourself. Earn the trust, buy a shitter and save the money so you can buy something even BETTER than a 10K car in a year or two. =-]

If *I* joined and posted this on the same day, i'd be bagging the competition too.

Well... the dump is connected to the turbo, which is connected to the exhaust manifold. You could have a crack or gasket leak anywhere around that area. Check the seals by putting some soapy water over the gaskets and looking for bubbles, look for cracks in the turbo (remove heatshield) and exhaust manifold. Check the wastegate actuator and piping too. Good luck!

Installed mine yesterday. Started at 5psi felt like stock, wound up to 10psi, felt like my ECU didn't like it but it hammered, wound down a fraction and got 7psi up until 5000rpm where it just reached 8psi... Quite happy, and you DO feel it come on boost quicker.... and i'm running stock everything else! The bottom end (opposite from the allen bolt) goes to your intake pipe (that goes directly to your throttle body, the side feed goes to the turbo (wastegate actuator), and the last hose left over will come from the pipe that leads to the BOV. put a nice big screw into it, then hose clamp the pipe over the screw to make sure it doesn't come out. The factory solanoid can be completely unplugged (hoses) and left hooked up to the ECU (wiring).

Yep, there is always a little power there so that the standard clock keeps the time, the A/C keeps the settings, and your headunit doesn' lose it's settings and radio station presets etc. The LCD clock will use jack all power, but it might no be too good for keeping theives uninterested.

Well actually it's what d00dz has done. I'm measuring up all the sides of that partition, and working out a way to secure the mdf. My other problem is that my 12" Sony sub won't fit where I want it. I was going to have the amp mounted to the left side, and the sub on the right, with the magnet of the sub poking into the empty space next to the battery. It's too big and doesn't clear my strut-brace. d00dz... would you mind posting up a picture of your install and explaining how you mounted the mdf to the car? I'm looking for a way that doesn't involve drilling new holes in the boot. Cheers!

Heh.. my amp won't fit in there either. I have an idea which i'll be acting out soon, and if it works, I should be able to pass on measurements as a quick guide.

Dude... if the sun visors are pretty much perfect, i'll take em. $30 shipped to Sydney? PM please.

The timing is probably set up for 100ron fuel, being an import. As far as I know, you may get excessive ping from the motor if your ECU hasn't relearnt the different fuel. There are guides here on how to reset your ECU, but if you plan on using lower-ron fuel permanently, it'd be worth getting a tuner to adjust the timing based on how much knock you are getting. Otherwise, if you want better power and less pinging, use 98 ron. =-]

Actually, you know what... whether you take the fan part out yourself or not, I recken this is an auto-electrician's job more than an A/C guy. The piping and gas is all fine, you have an electrical problem. A sparky can check fuses and test the fan, possibly without removing it at all.

1st pic heater 2nd pic blower

Hey no worries! I'm paranoid about taking my car to anyone who is just going to guess like you and me how to remove the dash. (I think you and I would be more careful than some overworked A/C tech) So personally, i'd still have someone who has pulled an R33 dash apart before do the stripping, then take the faulty unit out and put 12v onto the fan. If it doesn't spin, it's definately dead.

lol =-] You get what you pay for, and if chopping springs is free... well... say goodbye to any handling benefits that you paid good money for in a car.

Well.. i'll check the parcel shelf that I bought recently. I think it had bolts through them though.

so what's stopping you from going back to accessories and hitting any button? You shouldn't need to arm it to disarm it. My alarm will let me disarm in acc or ON... turn car off, leave keys or take them with me, fill up, pay, open door, key into ignition, turn to ON, press remote button to disarm immobiliser and give me ignition, start car.

Dan... that's what I was getting at. A new, plain black CD player (no mp3) shouldn't cost $200, and my last (old old old) Kenwood was bought for $50 from Cash Converters. I had that for 6 years, and it was kinda old when I bought it! A nice second hand one will prolly cost you the same as a frequency converter! (if you ever find a factory single-DIN cd player). Anyhoo... go for a used deck mate, and some decent used speakers. I recken you could do it all for $200-$250 if you install it yourself. (PM me if you are, I have a guide)

We found another black s2 manual coupe with stockies, eh Dezz? ;o) Same thing here, I don't go over 3-4K on a really hot day. With the A/C on and the clutch-fan locked on, the car is very sluggish... but the clutch fan is doing its job of cooling the radiator, so I drive softly and count the hours down till the sun sets.

Getting a stock Rb25 is called "headroom" ;op Even if it is as quick as a modded RB20, you can easily mod the RB25 and get much more out of it. I recken you could chuck RB25DET NEO in the list there... stock 206kw for a few more dollars. =-]

I was just about to say "Nissan Australia mechanics don't know Skylines because there were only 100 32's locally delivered to Australia"... I recken it might be worth contacting a reputable car stereo place, and ask if they've ever removed the dash before. Then work on the heaterbox fan yourself. Actually... with some spare time and patience, you can pull it apart yourself if you just go slow and logically. Search for 32 stereo install guides here, because half of them show you how to remove most of the front facia.

On the manual (must be the same for your auto), the foglight switch is the twist mechanism on the headlight stalk. Same as the rear windscreen squirter mechanism on the wiper stalk. Good luck!

Are you considering selling the dump pipe seperately? I'm looking to buy that particular one, but more cheaply if someone needs one gone. Cheers.