RANDY

Fair enough. I suggested machining the flywheel as a "best practise" measure, as you would with brake rotors after a few pad changes... might aswell?

Man... Best off buying a decent CD player new. If not, you'll need a frequency converter for the radio on a Jap unit. Dunno about the CDR, but my old old old Kenwood deck did. Buy a new deck and then you don't need to worry. Factory speakers... if anyone changed them like I did, they got thrown in the bin ASAP. The rears, unfortunately, always get drilled through in compliance, so I doubt you'd source them. New 6.5" speakers should fit in there with no modification. If you consider this option, take the grille off (i'm guessing that you'll be removing the child-restraint bolts if you're changing the speaker), and remove the speakers before you go shopping. Ask the sales guy if you can sit the new speaker in to see if it fits up nicely. Oh... I've never heard of a single-din CD in the R33's... I bought an aftermarket pocket, but the Pulsar pockets (new) are nicer.

You'd have plenty spare from a 5L bottle. From memory, when mine was changed, it was about 2-3L? Everyone is switching to using Redline oil at $130 for 5L I think? If you can afford that sort of money, it would probably be the best stuff to use, and you'd have some spare afterwards.

I called them a few months ago to see if I could swap my 3rd party insurance from my V8 to my new Skyline. The swap was direct, no more to pay. I'm 24, and i've been waiting for the magic 25 before getting full-comp, but I thought i'd ask how much just incase it had come down from the $3500 quote I was given 2 years ago. The guy told me that they don't go age-based anymore, but rather "how many years accident-free" that you've been driving. So they quoted me $1901 or something... and i've got just under 2 months till my bday. Now... Just Car also offer no claim for every year you've had 3rd party with them, so i'd be straight in at 60% NCB. (been with them for 3 years on 3rd party, no accident for 6 years... stupid P-plate thing I did on my 2nd week of driving) JustCar just keeps getting better!

Dude =-] If your glovebox and boot are the same as in a coupe, then you obviously haven't been in a Commodore for a while. I could comfortably sit cross-legged in my boot (wiring up an amp) and easily fit three full-size suitcases. The glovebox held a 36-CD wallet, sunglasses case, medium size CB radio, and some candy. Now I just have loose discs in there and a few papers. Even though you've got a 4-door, i'll wager that my old VP Berlina had more rear legroom than your car does. My tallest of friends could sit back there, with the front seats all the way back (too far back to drive, even!) and they STILL had a decent 15cm before their knee would touch the front seat. so =-p =-]

You know what? I saw tons of series 1 Skylines around that money when I was buying my car. The ONLY thing that would stop me from buying a car like yours is the pure fact that I was looking for a series 2. Being newer and looking much nicer than a stock series 1. So... 32GTR's are good value, and series 2 R33's are 1-2K more. Your car looks nice though, maybe it doesn't show in pictures. =-]

it'll prolly get removed if you don't post prices, as per the rules. =-]

Well.. definately time to start thinking of a new clutch! The more it slips, the quicker it'll die completely. Well... to the point where you can't go over 3000rpm or generate any boost at all because it slips too much. I should know, I had that for a month before I changed the clutch. You'll have to get the flywheel machined at the same time, cause it's prolly toasted, burred, and lipped. If you take it easy and not slip it too much, it should hold up for quite some time... not so fun when you can't put your boot in though! Glad to hear I may have helped. Good luck!

Sounds like it! I was confused as to why the question was directed at an R33, yet the avatar is an R32. Oh, btw... might be easier to test ALL the fuses. Might as well since you're there. The one fuse mounted vertically on the left-side is a spare, so it won't do anything.

It's for my team-leader at work. He's bent his. =-] I'll let him know, but he seemed to be not willing to change the bushes in the replacement. Thanks!

So the fan doesn't work on heat either, right? If it's a dead fan, it means pulling most of the dash apart, and replacing the heaterbox. If you're lucky, it's just a blown fuse. By your right knee, there is a panel that pops off, and some fuses are there. From memory, one of them is called "blower motor". Check that fuse and let us know! =-]

In the hills eh? Could it be your clutch slipping ever so slightly? If it is, the smell will come right through the cabin via the gear-shift.

Only if i've eaten too many baked beans for breakfast ;o)

Poor guy... go on a Holden forum, and they'll prolly tell you to get the senator and stuff skylines. Having owned both, the V8's are toquey as anything, but chew through the fuel. Comfortable though, heaps of legroom, glovebox room, boot space... the Skylines have none of that. Stagea's are nice, but they're kinda big if you're looking for something sporty. I would have to recommend the R33GTST. You'd get a very clean one for ~20K. Something a little rougher for 14-17K that you've budgeted. It's sporty, fairly economical when stock, and very moddable if you decide to go that way later. Parts are cheaper for Holdens too... so you have to factor in that sort of stuff, but since you are hardly driving, I don't think it'll be a big issue. I managed to get my R33 for 13K after a 3K trade in, and 1K discount for the 18" alloys that it had on it. My second choice would be (and was at the time) an R34 GTT. The 4-door tiptronic ones are around 18K, and if you find one with a factory body kit, they look quite sporty.

Might come along depending on how much sleep I can get on Friday. =-]

You can just install it. Also check out the Raisin kits that JustJap sell in the for sale section. Same thing but cheaper. It has cured a few weird issues for various people, but i'm not sure it'll cure stalling. It has fixed rough idle for a couple of guys. Might want to check for piping leaks and stuff first? Do you have an atmo BOV?

Mate. How much for the front right upper control arm on its own? Does it have bushes still in? It will fit an R32 GTR, right? Thanks!

I don't think Apexi make three different ECUs for the three motors... (series1, series2, neo) I guess someone can confirm definately, but i'm quite sure in my mind.

I used to go to Owens... but they change staff so often! The last time (previous car) they chipped my rear rims to buggery getting the tyres off, and only offered to respray one of them. (after I went back and showed them) Where on the Northern Beaches are ya? I'm near Killarney. I've seen a white GTST a few times and given the *nod* to the driver.

Come to think of it though... AM radio doesn't usually use an external antenna, and it's amplitude modulated... so in theory your frequency modulated converter shouldn't affect it. Now i'm stuffed. Do you get static? Or simply nothing at all?

If you just installed it, is it an Aussie stereo or Jap? The frequency converter lowers or hightens (I forget) the frequency range that the stereo listens on. So... it's to be used with a Jap stereo to listen on Australian radio. If you have an aussie radio, don't use the converter. Sorry if this isn't the case, but otherwise you can only start looking at the antenna wiring. Get a multi-tester and test the continuity from the plug to the antenna.

Telling us what make/model car you have would help. I don't know of any cars that have a fuel pump under the engine bay, but it kinda sounds like what you're describing. Might be an idea to have someone else listen under there while you crank it over. Could even be wire shorting or something crazy like that. It kinda sounds like big-ass capacitors charging and discharging.

I have some tube-paste stuff that worked for a while... but my lights keep fogging over like crazy. There are two spots where it HASN'T fogged over, in different places on each lens. I bought Maguire's PlastiX... it kinda works like the rest, but the fog comes back in a weeks time. I'm not game to polish the lights, as i'll prolly end up polishing all the panels around the lights and stuffing it right up!

And only when you turn it on? Worst case: you have a leaking fuel line under the car, and the rust in your floor is so bad that it instantly gets absorbed into the carpet and then stinks up the cabin. JK about the rust! =-] You could check the rubber hosing that clamps onto the fuel rail, as that gets close to the firewall, and also check the fuel filter and piping... it's down the driver side, under the intake manifold.. can't miss it.

This usually means a problem with the hinge/doors on the heaterbox. Basically it's not closing the vent from the heaterbox and allowing outside air to come through. You can check a couple of the bars that control the doors by climbing head-first under your dash, in the pedal area, looking towards the centre console (and subsequently, the heaterbox)