RANDY

This usually means a problem with the hinge/doors on the heaterbox. Basically it's not closing the vent from the heaterbox and allowing outside air to come through. You can check a couple of the bars that control the doors by climbing head-first under your dash, in the pedal area, looking towards the centre console (and subsequently, the heaterbox)

Well... my VP V8 used 70L to give me 380 on the dot, every time. So my new 350/50L isn't too bad in comparison... but still lousy if you work out the km's/litre

I'm with RB30... your mechanic sounds like a sensible and safe guy to listen to. I have a series 2 R33 also, and i've got a K&N filter in the airbox. I didn't want to start hacking front bars or anything like that, so I have bought an R34GTT cooler (plenty for sale on SAU). I'm yet to fit it, but they do flow better, are a little thicker, and have bigger inlet/outlets on the end-tanks. ARC make a SMIC (stock mount) intercooler which is made from aluminium, and is supposed to be several kilo's lighter than the original. The stock R34's make 206kw... so I figure that its intercooler is good for at least that much. My next move after fitting that cooler is to get a CESRacing split dump pipe, then source an 80mm cat, and order an exhaust. I'm quite tempted to dyno my car before and after to show the differences using a panel filter, R34 cooler, 3" exhaust... but it costs more money! =-[

Ah! Thanks Ian and SK! That answers my question. The unused nozzle on the back of the manifold on a Stagea is what the Skyline uses to go to the MAP sensor. Ian, PM sent... i'd love to monitor my boost digitally! =-]

Thanks, Ian! A mate told me the same thing, but I'm curious as to why I don't see any boost reading in any consult software that I try. I would also like to use that pipe to go directly to a boost guage that i'm fitting, rather than tap off something else. The only real pipe I can see goes to the MAP sensor, I think. (it's tiny)

So... If I want to use that one for my guage, can I remove the stock connection and use the nipple? That pipe on the Skylines just goes to the ECU somehow, right? It's not going directly to the guage on the dash? Cheers!

Ben and others, cheers... regardless of how much is left in the tank, 50L takes me 350k's. Do the math on that, and it's what? 7km a litre? I'll be putting on a split dump, cat, exhaust on next year... so hopefully that will lean it out a little?

Might have better luck if you post in the "wanted to buy" section? First have a search in the "for sale" section, cause someone might be offering one up.

Crikey... I get 350k's to a 50L fill in my stock R33GTST... highway or not. O2 replaced (as seen in the 02 thread). I'm still hunting for a good reason why my economy is so poor... no smoke, new plugs, new O2 sensor... car runs smmoooooth.

That doesn't sound stock. A photo would really help mate. =-]

Man with big penis is better with power tools. ;o)

what's wrong with your radiator? if it's leaking around the end-tanks/core, or the core is stuffed, you can have a radiator place re-core it for $100. They reuse your end-tanks, and that way you're guaranteed a fit.

Yeah man, we'd appreciate more pics... i'm keen to see how you dealt with the battery/fuse block. I have a rear strut brace (which i'd like to keep) that gets in the way of doing anything funky. I'm in the process of making a new parcel-shelf up today, and I was going to put my 12" sub into a piece of wood and replace that battery cover piece, similar to what you have done.

What i'm getting at is: perhaps the switch doesn't just reverse the polarity when you want the window to go UP, it may have its own way of doing it with a seperate wire or relay. (relay could be stuffed?)

There is a seperate up/down switch for the passenger window on the drivers door, right? I'd suggest that either the switch, or some wiring to the passenger window may be stuffed? Try pulling out the switch panel, then push all the wires in, incase one of them is loose. Failing that, a multimeter may be the go, but I don't know which wire is responsible for what.

There is an aftermarket gasket which is a bit thicker, and made out of something else. The idea of the product is that it doesn't transfer heat very well, so your exhaust manifold doesn't absorb the heat from the head, only from the exhaust coming out which is a fair bit cooler. Dunno who made it though.

I'll take the two nipples! (jk)

Nice job! I'm always more impressed when someone customises their car themselves, and makes their own stuff. Paying someone to do it gives you no right to show off, but YOUR boot install looks excellent!

1.6bar is pretty high, so i'd imagine that it has a front-mount, new turbo, and so on... With that sort of power, you'd probably have to go for a clutch with very high clamping pressure. The twin and triple plate designs usually have a very strong pressure plate, so it could be the way to go. The downside is that these clutches are usually button-type (brass or ceramic). If you go that way, and it's your daily driver, see if you can source a kit that is a CUSHIONED button clutch. It gives the feel of a non-button, but mechanically it is on or off like a button clutch.

lol... it usually gets noisy because someone has pulled it apart to fit a stereo, fix a wire, fix the A/C blower, etc... Then there's the stiffened suspension, doesn't help. Most cars that i've been in that are totally stock are dead quiet apart from whatever is in the glovebox moving around. If you can pop the vent out, you should be able to reattach the brace along the back of the sliding adjuster. Put some clear bike grease along where the slider runs. It's sticky to the point that it won't allow the plastic to touch and rattle, but will make the vents glide better than standard.

I'd be interested to see what your alternator is doing. If it's not charging the battery, then your amperage is going to suffer. (batteries are sometimes rated at "CA", Cranking Amps) I dunno if the Skyline's alternator has a removeable voltage regulator, but on my previous car the brushes on the regulator got so low that it was barely contacting the alternator. It could just be your battery man, is it maintenance free, or does it require distilled water? If so, what's the levels like? Should be 6 or so little screw-caps ontop, but knowing the R33's, you'll have to remove your strut brace and pull the whole battery out to check it.

Focal. Can't go past them for speakers.

I thought that Japan had a max allowable output of 206kw by law, and everything was claimed to be 206 when in actual fact they were putting out more (closer to 220kw in series 3 GTT) First they had the engine capacity restriction, until a clever guy invented the turbo, then they had a max power output to combat that. Next thing you'll prolly see is all carbon fibre or plastic panels to get a better power/weight ratio! =-D

You might save 5kg... mine weren't very heavy at all. I recken your spare tyre would weigh more.

Check that all the proper screws are where they should be. Failing that, take off the offending item, and put a thin strip of rubber (self-adhesive) along the inside of it, then screw back in. Just make sure the rubber is thin enough that it seals the gap that is vibrating, but not too thick that it seperates the two peices of plastic noticeably.