RANDY

No probs, come to think of it... new spark plug definately, and then get some carby cleaner and give it a good blasting while covering up the vitals. You could have lots of dirt and grass caught in the intake. It works much like a carby, and like someone else pointed out, you may have a mixture and/or rpm needle which you'll need to get a flat-head screwdriver onto. If it's really old and done the hard yards without maintenance, then the piston and ring could be nuked... in which case it's easier to buy another mower. If you're feeling game, take half the day off and strip down the motor. Just unscrew and unbolt everything (noting where they came from) and clean the sucker right out. I'll bet the cylinder is pretty yukky, and i'm sure the intake is going to be clogged.

But you had a VS... that'd be my next-door neighbour, Paul. But he wouldn't know my nickname.

Uh oh! sounds like a loose wire in the harness somewhere! I still think it'd be a good idea to hoox it up to a lappy and check out those error codes.

Paul!? "the street with the xmas lights" Paul? or "SR20DET" Paul? It's been pretty good man! Few things here and there, but i'm enjoying the ride =-] From what I quickly researched, brake horses and HP are pretty much the same thing, but kw to hp is always 2/3rds. So this guy has about 220kw, whether it's at the fly or wheels, we don't know. Interesting to see it put your way though, and I guess that's probably about right for the powerloss in most cars. Unless we start talking auto's.

I think he has one... "blitz dump vaule " Dunno what he means by "vaule" though.

If the clutch is still heavy, that should indicate that the master/slave setup is OK, and that you have fluid in the line where it should be. I just had a mate help me fix my slave cylinder recently, and from what I noticed, it might be a good idea to climb under the car and see if the slave is pushing on the paddle that sticks out of the gearbox. That paddle goes to the fork/release bearing/pivot bolt thing, so if the paddle moves, it might be that bolt inside that's snapped? I've heard that it does happen.

shouldn't be man. The blinkers usually run off a relay, which will blink double-speed if one of your other indicators isn't working. Well, in my previous non-Nissan cars, that's how it worked. Usually the rear one was water-logged if the front one was going double-speed. Interesting to find out if that is the case or not!

Are you running the stock RB25DET ECU as well? You might be able to pull the fault codes outta the ECU if that is the case. I think the only reason it comes back alive if you don't press the clutch is because you're essentially hill-starting it. What sort of driving are we talking about? Just cruising along and then it stops, or are you gunning it and coming off the throttle really hard?

Yeah, for four days... it's still funny though. Have you read through her site?

Absolutely nothing, but you thought it funny enough to use it in your sig! =-p

impact blue! =-o "There's a party in my pants and you're invited" "Instead of changing up to 3rd, I pulled the handbrake on, and didn't realise what I was doing " "It is 12.38am on Wednesday 23 November 2005. I am lying, nekid, on my bed. " "Then I had a laser hair removal appointment for the… erm… nether regions." Your site is a dirty read! =-D

Dude... change the spark-plug on it too... sounds like something is overheating and dying on you. But like cars I guess, opening the exhaust, giving it more fresh air, and making sure the spark is right can only help. 98 octane fuel just means it won't pre-detonate under high compression, but a mowers compression probably won't go anywhere near that anyway. If you wanna use it to make your own 2-stroke fuel, go ahead =-]

Damn! I was thinking of doing this for the last few months. =-] I thought the easiest way was to rerun the blinker wiring up to the parker socket, then soldering or crimping the blinker wire onto the parker globe socket. That way, you don't need to worry about the current-draw, cause i'm sure the parker socket isn't going to be rated any differently to the blinker socket. All the lighting should be 12 volt, as has been said by "cc".

lol. Sure you don't have a dead clutch? It rather sounds like it is slipping. The weird sound could also be the clutch. Dunno, i'm not really an expert, but i'm definately not a fan of conversions like that. Interesting to see the pics though!

Dude... stock BOV? I don't think it'll hold that much. Is the high-flow the stock turbo or a bigger unit? I guess what i'm asking is; what is the wastegate doing?

And what sort of intercooler is it running? 0.9psi? you mean 0.9 bar, or 9psi? GTR camshafts or cam gears? I forgot the conversion for BHP, but what sort of power do you want to end up with? As a rule of thumb, 12psi is relatively "safe" for boost, but expect a lesser life-span of the turbo. (personally I wouldn't push it past 10psi) It sounds like an aftermarket ECU might be one of the next steps, along with a tune. Once the basic mods have been done, as you have already, tuning the AFR's can give a reasonable amount of extra grunt. If you're looking for BIG gains, then perhaps an uprated turbo swapout, along with fuel-pump, regulator and injectors... but you'd still need to have the aftermarket ECU fitted to tune it all.

I concur. If they DID have a camera mounted somewhere, there'd have been a rather bright flash. A roof-mounted laser/radar speed detector only tells the officer in the car how fast you were going, and if he doesn't give chase and hand you that fine, then you won't get one at all. It'd be pointless for them to even mail you a fine, because without a speed readout and a photo of your car, they can't hold it up in court.

LOL! Betting/gambling and doing cash-in-hand jobs are still better than getting hand-outs. =-] Good to see you guys working hard and earning your enjoyment!

On a VT commodore, it caused lots of problems and Davies Craig themselves had the car for 2 weeks and couldn't sort it out. This was back when I owned a VP and was thinking of putting one on. As far as street performance goes, there theoretically should be a very small gain, but I doubt you'd notice it.

Engine brace.

Holy hot crumpet! Canada, eh? You can buy those LED tail lights off eBay.com.au for 33's and 34's. Something like $430 a pair. Add a couple of zero's to the end of that, then pay me that amount, and i'll take em! =-p

heh... i've asked this question a few times in my head. I've just bought a 96 s2 skyline about 4 months ago, with lots of saving. I'm in an IT job, which pays ok now, but previous to this I was a computer tech making jack-squat for a 6-day week. I'm almost 25, and i've just been able to afford a 16K car. Then I see kids asking simple technical questions on how to fix their R34 GTR in these forums... it usually ends with something like "I want to get this fixed before my formal!". Crikey! I re-read Mack's post back in 2003, and i'm curious as to whether he was paying any rent to his poor parents who drive the "crappy VL". I started paying rent since I was 18, and it's still cheaper than moving out, although I plan to do this next year anyway. Your parents had to buy a house, support you, send you to school for 14 years, buy your clothes, food, electricity, water etc etc etc, and they're probably still paying off their debts to have you alive. I certainly wouldn't be sneering at MY parents house or car. I'm still convincing myself that these younger blokes are just much more intelligent than me, worked harder at school/uni, and have a job that pays them what they deserve... thus giving them the disposable income that they have for buying cars and mods. I'll be pissed if my split-personality learns that they're getting these things given to them. =-]

Yeah, how's it been? I've switched jobs and switched cars. That's about it =-]

=-D

You could try the rack, there's prolly a bleeder or hose you can pull off there. I'm not sure if you'd have to bleed the system after that. (or if you can) Check the hoses for the powersteering too, on the drivers side when you look down past the oil filter. R33's commonly leak there. (mine does).