RANDY

You could try the rack, there's prolly a bleeder or hose you can pull off there. I'm not sure if you'd have to bleed the system after that. (or if you can) Check the hoses for the powersteering too, on the drivers side when you look down past the oil filter. R33's commonly leak there. (mine does).

I took the liberty of fixing your avatar, Tosh ;o)

You betchya, Dezz! =-] They look horny, hey?

True this... you haven't seen it yet, have you? Haven't seen you in AGES come to think of it!

Find part number off ngk.com.au or something, then ask autoone or whatever to ship it to you?

According to the R33 manual, you are supposed to support the front and rear of the car on the outside rail. Right next to the skirts. Mechanics use rubber blocks for various cars, and the Skylines have a seam which sticks out a little (the part you bent?) For Skylines, the rubber block must have a slit in it for this seam. To jack the car, you really shouldn't go off anything other than the cross-member or gearbox mount. (would be pretty hard to get the gearbox mount that far back!) The sump sounds like a BAD idea to me. Hope that helps!

You need to use special imported power steering fluid. It's refined in Japan by the government to use in military-experimental aircraft, but you should be able to import some with forged documents. Failing this, I use the Castrol stuff from the local autoone. ;op

Gimme a photo, then i'll reduce it heaps, then i'll blow it up, and you'll have a pixel car!

Well... turns out that I have some other weird problem. The clutch slave was pushing on the little paddle when fully released, which meant that it was disengaging the clutch slightly the whole time. SteveGTS4 (mate) helped pull it out, then we grinded a bit of the pin of the slave off, and it pretty much doesn't slip anymore. I have a new slave on standby if anything goes pear-shaped. The new slave's pin was longer, being new and all, and fitted worse than the old one. We're thinking that maybe something else was changed when a button-clutch may have been installed in Japan sometime?

Oh... on my previous car (Holden) there was a spare harness hanging around that area for fog-lights and so on. My R33 is a series 2, and has fog-lights, but I guess Nissan would do the same thing to make production easier?

Wouldn't that be for the thermo-fan strapped onto the front of it? Or if it's strapped right onto the condenser, then maybe it's a grounding wire?

Tell me of this clutch-adjustment! =-p

Protect LED's usually indicate clipping. i.e when the output power is too high, and may damage your speaker. There is a term for the other way round, but it's been a long day at work and now my brain isn't functioning. In any case, I think your amp is "monitoring" the signal/power going out the wire, and if there's too much resistance, it indicates that the speaker isn't handling it too well, so the amp cuts back. It could just be that the amp doesn't handle the way the sub is wired. i.e, if it's a 2ohm sub, the amp may find it too much resistance and cut out to protect itself. If it's been running for a long time without any drama's, and it's just started to play up now, check the speaker wiring all the way to the sub itself, or make sure that you haven't flicked any bridging switches or something on the amp. Hope that helps.

I remember watching one and they took the R32 GTR to the Nuremburg Ring (sp?). Then I found another video where a Jap guy took a modified one out there... BIG difference!

Thanks for the info. How many k's to a 50L tank do you get before the plug-change? I'm lucky to hit anywhere near 400km's in a pretty stock R33. I only get close to 400 if I do a LOT of highway driving.

Yes... top gear or 5th gear... I don't remember. They reviewed the R32 GTR definately, and i'm sure they did the R34 at some stage. I also have a file called "1000hp Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 Tuned by JUN Tested by Jeremy Clarkson.avi" which was quite good. Not much info on the specs, but he was amazed.

OK thanks very much for being so helpful! I'm just tossing up whether I get a used one for $70, or a new one for $88, or the Nismo for $175. If mine IS faulty, then i'll need to keep the purchased one to use.

Yes I am mate. On the Northern Beaches. How much are you asking and where are you located? Thanks for the speedy reply!

Check that it is plugged in, too. Test your old one by removing it (three screws with a short scewdriver), unplug and try testing the wiring or hook it up to a direct power source. 12 volts?

I need one to test something, so i'm looking for $50 shipped for a working one. Or name your price, and if I get desperate, i'll consider all offers.

If it's series 1, look up a user called Campbell. He sold me one for series2, and he had a series1 LED also.

Pic of rear passenger side trim please (coupe). Do you have the gearbox trim with the leather boot attached? Cheers! -Steve

PM received, read, and raised eyebrow at. Deposit made. Thanks!

Please PM me your bank details, and i'll shoot some money across along with my address details. Thanks!

Prolly a different slave on a 32 box anyway. dang. As for the shifter, can you do it for $50 shipped? I'm in Sydney, Northern Beaches. Cheers!