RANDY

I did exactly that on my last car =-] We had to give it a few tries, because if it didn't grab it straight away, we'd end up with an antenna half up when it was supposed to be fully down. I think the Skylines have a sensor that measures the resistance in the wire, where as my last car just had a timer or something... or there were gremlins in there that counted the number of turns of the electric motor.

Apparently the rubber pipe near the rack is a common leak-point. Mine is oily, but not dripping. On the R33's, it's the two metal pipes on the drivers side, down into the rack. Those pipes have rubber pipes and clamps, which don't seem to hold too well. Might want to check yours?

I use 32psi all round, and it feels tight, but not with too much road noise. I guess you should check what is written on your tyre? I'm not sure about the 40psi mark... sounds like over-inflating when you're talking about stock tyre dimensions?

Sounds like the metal bar has fallen off or gotten jammed. In my R33, I can see it by going head-first, and on my back onto the driver side footwell. Looking behind the stereo etc, I could see the heaterbox (white), and behind that is a bar that controls the vents I beleive. If that's the right rod, it would open and close internal vents to the heaterbox. i.e open lets heat come from the heaterbox, closed redirects outside air through, and anything inbetween will mix outside and heaterbox air together. I hope it's a simple fix like that for you!

My R33 has a different-looking reservoir, but that's where it is.

If it knocks due to pre-detination, could it be that the air in the chambers is too hot? Do you have ajustable cam gears, and have you adjusted the timing when the PFC was done? I recken you might be able to squeeze a bit more out with cam-gear adjustment or something along those lines.

The percentage is the percentage of sunlight that the tint will allow in. 35% is 35% of light coming in, and it's not terribly dark. (for obvious reasons) I had a 20% tint on my last car, and I got used to it and I loved it. People's headlights and high-beams in my rearview mirror didn't put me off at all, and by night, you couldn't even see the seats without a maglite up against the window. The 5% on offer would be REALLY dark.. like Limosine or PI dark. Almost like painting your windows black.

weasel: yeah man, your clutch pedal should go to the firewall, where it is held on by a bracket which has been spot-welded to the firewall. If you want to get everything out of the way to do the welding, then yeah... you'd be pulling half the dash out. I recken you could get in there with the method that I described and chuck a couple of welds on it.

My mechanic told me the other day that a ceramic or uncushioned brass button will do that to the buggery. Can't remember exactly what the reasoning is, but he said it'd do that if I went that way.

Heh... we don't know! I thought it was normal! =-[ Ben: yeah.. dunno man.. it hasn't been painted before. I think the clear was taken off ages ago, and the sun had its way with it

My A/C clicks too... someone once said that it was on the heaterbox that the problem is. I still get different temps and everything, so I haven't been bothered to look into it. Let me know if you find the source of the cause! Interesting about the dash plastic... I bought my car with none on it. It's just a really rough texture atm. If I try and clean it with kitchen paper, it shreds it. =-/ I want to paint it, but I CBF pulling the whole thing out and painting it. =-[

Easy as pie to see in the R33... climb in the footwell on your back, follow the clutch pedal. It goes to that rod, which goes to a rubber grommit, which goes through to the master cylinder.

Mine was shagged when I got the car. Same deal, couldn't drive over 2000rpm if it was trying to boost. Went the Cenral Coast and back to Sydney though. I have a problem now though, my 4 month old clutch is doing the same damn thing! Is the clutch adjustable? is there any reason why it might not be clamping properly? Thanks!

Mine squeaks like a parrot. I used silicon lubricant spray pretty wildly under there until it stopped, but now it's back 3 weeks later. =-// And my 4-month old clutch is slipping badly. Doing searches on clutch adjustments atm.

ooh.. so you're only missing the starter motor?! Does the cars standard immobiliser immobilise the starter? Checked the fuse/relay/wiring of the starter? Oh but then you can't hill-start it either. I dunno, in my Skyline, I don't get ignition if my immobiliser is active, maybe this mates car is different?

No dramas man... might as well plug in the RCA's while you have the thing apart, then leave the rest of the cable on the passenger floor until you have time to run it along the passenger side door-sills etc. There are nice channels all the way to run them. And yeah, get the Pulsar pocket. The one I have sucks. Or look for an R34's pocket... it has a folding lid on it much like the ash-tray our cars have.

Ah, then use this guy's guide, and simply drill some new holes in the bracket a bit further BACK, so the HU facia can sit behind the instrument surround. Should look very tidy if you do that =-] I was going to do this before I read this guys article, but I needed to bring it back about 2mm... you can't really drill a hole 2mm back, so my only option was to widen the holes horizontally, much like the CD-ROM screw-holes in a PC case for adjusting the depth of the CDROM. Trimming a little of the facia was heaps quicker.

dang it... my clutch is slipping again. I put an organic RPM kit in it 4 months ago (not from you)... might have to get the brass-button and Diakin plate? Will place order shortly. Cheers!

hey mate. No worries! I ran two pairs of RCA cables, and I will be running two pairs of speaker wire with them soon. Apparently Skylines are terrible for introducing noise along RCA and speaker wire, but I ran them up the driver side away from anything power-related. The RCA's I bought were gold plated tips and well insulated, so here's hoping! So, I dunno, I wouldn't think that there'd be any issue running RCA and speaker wire together. I did it in my last two commodores with absolutely no issues at all. There IS about 2 volts supposedly running out your RCA outputs, but if it's a shielded cable, and decent speaker wire, I really can't beleive that it would introduce audible noise. Good luck with the install!

Nice work! =-] And yeah, I cable tied all the bunches of cables together, and furried the door part behind them so they didn't vibrate against the door...

No worries Nice work =-] You shouldn't need any glue to keep the knob still, it should be pretty tight toward the end of the thread. If you DO want something like this again, try plumbers tape or something.

If you resort to wrenches or what I would suggest; multigrips... use rubber on the teeth of the tool you're using so that you don't chip all the paint off the shifter. The rubber should grip better than metal-on-metal too, and if you stuff your knob in the process, then you can always buy one in the "for sale" section cheaply, or visit JustJap for an aftermarket one.

hm.... dunno about wrecked thread, both are metal, so I recken you'll be fine. Yeah, the rubber boot just slides or folds upwards, and the console plastic part will have to come out with it. Normally you slip all that stuff off the end of the shifter, but you have a big knob in your way. ;o) The only thing you need to do to have the console part away is to unplug the two plugs for the cigarette lighter.

works for me everywhere except work... perhaps you have a firewall blocking that port? My work does! =-/

Oh, when you put whatever you buy into the thread to dissolve the glue, tighten and untighten it since you were able to loosen it 5 turns. That'll help get the solvent in there.