Jump to content
SAU Community

RANDY

Members
  • Posts

    2,381
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    88.9%

Everything posted by RANDY

  1. Oh, when you put whatever you buy into the thread to dissolve the glue, tighten and untighten it since you were able to loosen it 5 turns. That'll help get the solvent in there.
  2. ah yeah, when you drop the gearbox, you have to take the stick out... 4 screw-bolts around the base, and under that is a C-clip with two little holes in the ends. I found a thin long-nose pair of pliers can get into each hole at the same time. Squeeze so the c-clip shrinks, then lift up and out. stick should pretty much come straight out. Putting it back in is a LOT easier!
  3. Nice one, RocketBoy! Ethan, yeah, that's it! The crappy glue stuff on them has a lot of give, and the door-pods are ported at the rear. All the bass travels through the door, then tries to push the plastic door skin around. It just sits there flapping. Glad to hear the tape on the metal hooks worked for you! Seems it's not just me, but a common problem that people are experiencing.
  4. for images that don't load, right-click and "show picture" (for IE)
  5. If interested, I wrote up a guide VERY similar to this one, but possibly with more pics and a bit more detail. (and removing wiring) http://srandy.com:81 The pics will be horribly slow because it's got a slow connection.
  6. That's what I said! =-p I recken it's worth trying, and like NewKleer and I said, it might be worth checking the immobiliser out. Most three-point immobilisers will cut; 1) Ignition - you seem to have that 2) Starter - yours wont kick over 3) Fuel pump - yours doesn't prime?
  7. Only thing I would suggest is to pull out the c-clip at the base, and then take the whole stick out. Turn it upside down, and then use some superglue solvent, drip it inside the thread and see if that helps. Cover up the the plastic surround and everything that comes out with it with a plastic bag though. Once you crack the seal, it's easy street.
  8. When I took my door-trims off, I banged on the door and listened for rattles. Half of it was from the door trim itself! Up and under the inside of the trim, where it sits on the window-sill, there are metal sort of hangers/reinforcements. I had some strips of velcro spare, so I used the furry side, and cut them to length. Now it sits tighter, and hasn't made single sound! Also, tighten the door-skin... speakers don't need much volume to make that stuff shake, and it sounds like there are shopping bags in the door if they're loose.
  9. Consult port. Lots of threads on it. Very useful and cool thing to play with, but you need software, cable and a laptop. =-]
  10. Check the DIY section.
  11. axle-tramping... Like... umm.. the rotation of the diff affects how the rear end squats or lifts when you're gunning it. Mine (stock) will chatter and jump all over the place if I light it up in the wet in 1st gear, but if I switch to 2nd, it's all smooth sailing (sideways). I get the chattering if I reverse quickly or give it some steering at the same time. Maybe i'm horribly wrong, and it's just a LSD diff thing... I don't know a lot about what a 1.5-way diff is, but i've heard those specs a few times before. I know what open, LSD, locker, active LSD all are, but this "way" business could be something related?
  12. If you can find it, check the relay for the starter motor? It might not be your immobiliser possibly? Tried hill-starting it?
  13. yikes... fair point! So one of the points it immobilises is obviously the starter motor, considering you get ignition. My immobiliser cuts ignition also, so I get no HICAS, airbag, etc lights on the dash, and no fuel-pump priming until I un-immobilise it.
  14. What he said, or if you could be assed, remove shroud and fan, upper and lower pipes, and then take the whole damned thing out. You could get the drainer plug fixed at the same time, and give it a right good cleaning.
  15. Chris: ah ok! That would explain the different mounting-spots. So the dealers had Nissan central locking kits that they optioned onto some cars at the dealership?
  16. SR talk asks you to choose your engine... in my case, i put a dot next to "RB25DET", and all the values appeared correctly. When I used it last, and checked error codes, it came back and said something like "no errors found!" with a smiley face. Your mate is trying it with the ignition on, right? I think I tried that function with the engine RUNNING. When I turn the car off, and my alarm (built in turbo timer) takes over, the software just stops reporting anything. Possibly SRTalk doesn't run without the engine running? NewKleer, which circuit does the power wire in the consult harness run off? Is the power from accessories or...?
  17. My GTST does that occasionally... It's kinda like the noise you get from diff squat, but at much lower speeds/revs.
  18. I was considering the R34GTT turbo also. I have the GTT cooler, and I guess that's something you'll have to look at upgrading sooner or later. The R33's have a smaller core cooler that will restrict how much boost you can run, although 10psi sounds like a good safety point. My aim is also 200rwkw with as little modification as possible, and without making it look modified. I have been told by forum members that the series2 turbo has the nylon compressor wheel, and it is also ball-bearing... so the only thing the R34GTT's turbo has over ours is the turbo housing size.
  19. LOL =-]
  20. JTS25T: Dunno man... my new Kenwood does it, and my old Kenwood in my Commodore did it. Kinda handy, cause FM radio has always been more bassier to me. (not as bad as AM radio though) If FM radio is Frequency-Modulated, and high-pitch is in the upper range, and bass is in the lower... maybe the upper is being cut out a bit by the radio stations?
  21. So as I suspected, 0.42v has to be interpreted by the software into a percentage to make it look user-friendly...
  22. Mine was in the driver door, under the trim. Stamped as Nissan all over it, with a little arial on it. I never got the key, so I dunno if it works. I disconnected the unit from the harness, and my car security installer was able to tap off it to install the remote central locking in my alarm system. =-D I have a piccy if anyone's interested?
  23. What a classy guy. =-]
  24. Nice one! Blend door eh? I'm going to use that in daily conversation more often!
×
×
  • Create New...