RANDY

Like this... the part numbers can be handy. You just need to read the descriptions like Yoda. ;op

give us your VIN code, and i'll screenshot Nissan FAST. It has a "periodic service parts" list.

Could the relay be stuffed? They blow like fuses sometimes. =-]

I found the plastic pods to be reasonable, but i'll be pulling the trim off and having another look though. Everything else in the doors have started to rattle now, but it appears to be just the trim itself... so i'm going to whack some foam padding around the place. As far as parcel shelf pics, a few people have posted some up here and there. I have a pic from somone who's selling theirs with holes drilled through the speaker-mesh, and also I have a pic from a wrecker who is selling one. I like the idea of having the stock speaker mesh! Oh... from what I could see, the hole are TINY under the mesh. My car has the holes bodgily cut out wider. Someone got a knife and cut them as wide as the holes in the metal beneath it... and it's not a proper circle either.

yeah... I had NFI what it was for the first month or so... but if I released my belt, it would go "clunk"... then I tested it with the ignition. If I turn the car off, it also releases the belt. (I don't see it happen anymore cause my alarm has a turbo-timer built in, so i'm out of the car before the ignition is off). My girlfriend's side does it too, and there is a big difference in resistance when the ignition is on or the belt is buckled up.

oh, and I might come back to you about the stock BOV... noone wants to ship one to me so far. =-[

What's a type S?

Well... the clock should dim when you put headlights on... see if it goes dimmer. It almost sounds like everything is wired up to accessories or something weird like that. I've never thought about whether the A/C has an EEPROM or whether it has a small amount of power when the car is off. Perhaps check the wiring of the clock and/or AC with a multimeter when the car is off? I'm sure someone on here will have an answer for you though!

Argh! =-/ Although i'm lucky with my car... imported 4 years ago, and there are no child restraints, and the seatbelts all work! .. by "work" I mean, when you press the release button, the electric motor releases the tension on the belt. (big clunk noise!), and the wiring under the seats is all original and intact. Wouldn't mind mounting rear speakers properly though... my shelf has two irregularly cut holes in it, which means I can't mount 6.5" speakers without having holes around it. =-[

RSB!? I didn't know these things had rear speaker brackets! Dammit! Now I need those too! =-[

Look at that! Two screws to hold the speaker... and they aren't even driven in properly. This JBL 3-way doesn't fit in the pod, so the previous owner just had it sitting angled. Also, the stock speaker wire had telephone wire wrapped around it, which then wrapped around the speaker terminal. I haven't seen anything this bad before. =-o

I mounted new splits, and ran the tweeter on the mirror-sails. Instead of this bodgy install, I drilled another hole in each of the sail to run the wire out of the tweeter and directly inside the sail. The wires then run down the door to the splitter, which is constructed in-line. (rather than a big box splitter)

Here is my fix-up job after some bodgy previous owner stuffed an install.

Don't really need any diagrams... RCA's out of your HU, into the amp. Then +ve and -ve speaker wires go into the screw-clamps on the amp. Easy =-] Although if I run an amp in this car later, i'm going to try something... .running the speaker wire from an amp in the boot, up to the front of the car, then plug it into the crimps that I made that go into the HU. Unplug wires from HU, plug them into wires running from boot, and that takes care of the front speakers!

LOL! And no, the series 1 & 2 LED's are not interchangeable apparently. =-[

If you use the stock wiring, it couldn't be easier. Will post a pic tonight or tomorrow when I get home.

The pods are tricky. 6.5" max, and then you're not guaranteed that they will fit the strange hexagon shape. Best to take the trim off (5 minutes), then take a pod off (20 secs) and take that down to an audio place. Find a speaker that fits the hole, will screw in properly and isn't too deep. The Skyline pods have a plastic rear, which is your maximum depth. Once you choose a speaker, it's not a bad idea to cut that plastic rear off, cause it just bounces sound around. I'll post a pic of the pod up for you later if you like.

I think you were going to sell the sunvisors to me? They were perfect condition? If so, PM me your bank details and shipping price to 2086 please. Cheers!

I really want the LED from this. =-[ Anyone want to buy the wing for $60 if I buy the LED for $40?

Cheers Sewid! =-]

Australia Parcel Post would be the key. Yep, intercooler only please. I don't think I need the piping, but if it turns out that I do, i'll contact you again and see if you still have it. Apparently they WILL bolt up directly in the R33's, so I shouldn't need it. Pls PM me with your bank details when you find out the shipping price. Cheers =-]

Sold if you can ship it to Sydney!

Cheers, Chan. PM me if you're keen. =-]

Willing to do stock BOV for $50 inc shipping to Sydney?

LOL =-]