RANDY

Update... the sample of wire and heatshrink I put in a glass jar of unleaded petrol has done exactly what someone in this thread said it would do. It's expanded/swelled and slid down the wire. I presume my wiring has done the same thing in the fuel tank. I don't know whether the solder join bulge has stopped it from moving or not. I might experiment with that next. To anyone else doing this, be warned! =-]

Paid and faxed tonight. Should see funds tomorrow midnight. Thanks!

' alt=''> And when I do that, it says it's an invalid date for the model.. which is right. My 96 S2 is 114098. Much higher. Oh... I see in the post they say it's a 94, and it looks like a series 1... but the compliance plate says 1996. lol.

Interesting how the VIN is greened out on the green plate. I think it's a bit alarming that a wreckers complied the car. I think they may have made the number up. Have you got the car?

Firstly, the cradle is right up the back and you need to reach in up to your elbow to get to it. I spent a bit of time back and forth looking at this guide wondering why the pictures showed it sitting right at the hole. You need a torch to see it really. You lift it up off the bracket, then pull it towards you and out the hole. That part was actually easy after finding it! Second bit to add? My top part had an electrical harness on the tank side that stopped me bringing the whole thing out. Once I had it off the cradle it was past the point of no return and I had to balance it there and find a cable tie to hold the plug so that I could undo it and bring the whole unit out of the boot. I was using a Walbro GSS432, as I bought it a while back on the cheap and my pump just died overnight... no time to investigate a bigger unit. This pump is quite a bit smaller in size and in order to line it up with the fuel pipe and to retain the factory sock, I had to use a box knife to cut a raised bit off the pump's rubber perch bit that it came with. The standard perch (or whatever it was called) is on the right, and that just won't go on this unit. The sock that came with the Walbro is in the packet at the top, and it's ridiculously small and short. It won't reach anywhere near as far down as the factory sock. The factory sock fits and the new retaining washer thing holds it on quite nicely. A closeup of my work. The instructions say to cabletie (supplied) the pump at the bottom, and with the pipe at the top done up it was rock solid and didn't budge. The rubber bit at the bottom created a tight fit vertically for the pump, and the sock and inlet of the pump stick out the hole in the bracket where the factory rubber bit sat in. The whole lot slid very easily back into the tank, and the sock was angled perfectly down and into the tank as the factory item was. As I said previously, I used heatshrink over my soldering, but I cut the wires offset by two inches, so they can never come in contact anyway. Hope this helps!

So I didn't read the end of this thread... and the comment about heatshrink... bugger. I direct soldered the wires and used heatshrink, but I have the joins offset by about 2 inches from each other, so they'll never touch. It was the one thing I asked myself, whether or not heatshrink would be fine in petrol. ARGH! I'm NOT undoing it again! =-] Also, I have some notes for others coming up... I installed a Walbro GSS432 today using this guide.

LOL =-] LOL! If it moves and it shouldn't... ;o) OK... so i've been given permission to attend my fourth Texi. =-D

Argh! Baby due on the 24th... What are the odds of a 2-week early delivery?

For a neater look I made my own parcel tray. I bought 5mm(? can't remember now) masonite, which is quite stiff, and remade 6.5" speaker holes centered over the wonky shapes in the parcel tray metal. Later after going through several sets of reasonable speakers I realised that no free-air speaker sounded good in the parcel tray and i've run with no rears for 4-5 years and never missed them. Powerful fronts and a sub both running off a reasonable amp, and the rears are history. =-]

Personally, instead of adding kilos of extra weight (cause the sub is heavy enough as it is!) and heaps of gooey insulation that is near impossible to remove later, I prefer to find out what is rattling and try to dampen it directly. The two biggest culprits I found on my R33 way back when I put my sub in was: *The bootlock. Mainly, the metal sheet thing that secures the bootlock in the bootlid. It's a quarter-turn to remove the metal locking piece and pop the bootlock out. Suffice to say, its flimsy and acts like a ruler being "twanged" on the side of a desk. (you know the move!) Cover it or wedge some foam between it and the bootskin. *The numberplate. Surprisingly loud, but fixed either temporarily with a piece of cardboard shoved behind it, or permanently by purchasing some very thin rubber sheeting (from a craft store or Clark Rubber) and cutting it out to the size of your plate, and gluing it to the back of it. Remount it and retest. There was a *little* noise from the tailgate part of the boot, behind the boot lining between the two tail-lights. I put a little bit of Dynamat there, cut to shape, and just so the boot trim and the boot metal parts didn't have room to hit each other. It made for a perfect fit so both pieces rested against each other. My method was to open the boot, and remove the carpet and trim, then using the bottom of your hand (clenched) to bang random parts of the boot and bootlid to see what rattled. Been perfect ever since! If you want ultimate insulation and better sub efficiency, go ahead and cover everything imaginable with Dynamat. =-]

Straight down the reg and out the vacuum hose... so the vacuum hose from the FPR is still connected? If so, i've heard of FPR's breaking their vacuum plate and letting fuel flow straight through it into the vacuum hose. Disconnect or clamp it off? I read this first because my car wouldn't start a couple of days ago after parking it in the morning. I've since deduced that my fuel pump has died and I have *no* fuel being squirted into the mix.

As promised, it's now on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200688200025#ht_500wt_1362

NP!

Any day used to drive from Canberra to Sydney is not a waste. ;op

Just a few random snaps before the day got underway. =-] And a quick one of my efforts, thanks to Geoff for recording with my iPhone. And thanks to passenger Zoe for teh company =-]

I can't look up either of the last two (nothing higher than BNR34 400xxx). Soz!

Considering the tyre situation, i'm willing to make a lower offer including postage if you're interested. PM me if you like. Thanks

I actually did. A couple of friends were talking about it and I thought it's about time I owned a console that wasn't an Atari. 4Gb 360 $200, speed wheel + game $110 and a 250Gb aftermarket HDD $50. Not too shabby to get into it!

I don't think he wants to sell them =-[ Still no reply.

I thought V35's were the same width all round? Can you confirm yours?

Correct. As long as it's JDM Nissan, and not newer than 2001, I can look it up. =-]

Any R34 in the 400,000+ range can't be searched by me. Need Central Coast Person to do it... and hassle him to give me his version so I can do it. ;o)

NP!

hehe... well.. it would be nice to look up post-2001 cars for the guys here. ;o) I'm happy to obtain it any way you prefer, but i'm not sure how close you would call the Northern Beaches? Takes me an hour to get up to the Central Coast. Let me know in any case, i'll try and make it easy =-]