RANDY

yeah, I know what they are, and what they cost... I thought you had to get a proper tuner go over it after you install it? Ah well... it's big dollars to me... =-] (bought the car for 16K)

Dual Voice Coil. Lower impedance I beleive? I kinda wanted to say that it sounds like a ground is not working properly, or that power is not sufficient into one of the amps. Perhaps you could try un-powering one of the amps altogether to see if the problem still occurs with just one?

What happens if you don't bridge your sub? My 4-chan amp required me to use positive from channel 1, and negative from channel 3. If it goes away when you unplug or unbridge your sub, it might help narrow down the problem. Are you running power right off the battery, or off an existing circuit? Where are you running your ground to for both the amps?

Hey mate, I'm looking to do the same thing to my stocky s2 r33... I've got a k&n panel filter in (I really don't care for pods), and i'm now looking for a split dump and 3" exhaust. I've heard that a split dump pipe is only really effective if it is of a reasonable length. i.e if it is a dump and down pipe in one. (all the way to the cat) As for the cooler, they do exist, if you're wondering. I can't remember the brand, but there is a FMIC that will use your stock plumbing/holes to get the air to and from it. I was considering using the R34GTT cooler, as they are a little thicker, will bolt right up in the same spot, and flow more air and are supposed to be good for a max of 220kw? I think I won't bother with spending mega bucks and running a bunch of wires through my car by buying a PowerFC. Possibly an air/fuel controller will keep the ratio's correct... giving more power for the mods without over-richening (yes it's a word... from now on) the engine. Let me know how you go man, i'm really keen to see what mods make what power, and i'm looking to dyno my car soon, and then once each time I do a significant mod to it. Cheers!

LOL! I moved from my VP V8 Berlina to a black series2 R33... It looks exactly the same as your new car! (except it doesn't have those big heavy rims on it ;op )

oh ok! I started pulling the box apart, got to the PCB and thought again... there wasn't much I could do about it without replacement bulbs. =-[ So the two on the side that I unscrewed without dismantling anything... what do they light up? My Commodore had a similar deal with using a few bulbs to light up an entire panel of switches, so I thought that was what it was doing, as ALL my bulbs in the A/C unit do not light up. (except the demister green rectangle and something else the same)

OMG! I pulled my climate control unit out (EASY!) when I put my stereo in a couple of days ago. I actually unscrewed those two bulb and looked at them, stuck them back in and left it at that. I thought they were bulbs until I saw the rubber cap on them... that woud just insulate the heat of the globes. Now I know that they are the bulbs, I might pull the caps off and have a look at the globe. Anyone else seen them with the caps off? The globes are definately not little wedge bulbs or anything?

Type this URL in and have a little browse at their products and services: http://www.quiktrak.com.au/ I hope that helps =-]

None of the above? I think it's GPS.

fair enough! =-] The setup looks great though! Maybe you could look at full-time work with a car audio installer? Looks like it would be right up your alley!

I had Dunlop FM901's on my big heavy v8 commodore, and as I got more comfortable, I was able to throw it hard around tight s-bends around 80km/hr and they didn't complain one bit! They aren't a silicone compound, so they wore very nicely... but they did smoke if you got your foot caught on two pedals at once. Dry: 9/10 (best *i've* used, so I dunno how these scales will work) Wet: 8/10 (very hard to let go) Overall: 8.5? They cost me $230 each (best price in Sydney at the time) for 16x225x60?

White

white... get the rims back to white asap =-] Also get some DBA gold slotted and drilled discs, and paint your calipers gold with white NISSAN text. That would be the look that I would go for, but then everyone's tastes vary. =-]

Just out of curiousity, how much did all that weigh? I pulled my (large) amp and 12" sub out of my previous car when I bought the R33, and the two combined was quite heavy! I've just installed a new head unit (guide is on it's way for those interested) in today, and i've decided not to run and amp and sub because there's no where to put it. I was going to use the sides of the boot as you had (not quite so much as you did though), but I bailed on the idea. Cheers!

wow.. that's a lotta wiring! I hope you don't have to remove your strut-brace any time soon ;op Good to see your FMIC went well! (came round to buggy repair place to see it going in)

I'm pretty sure that you'll be at fault. Even if you took it to court and claimed that you were 3/4 out of the spot, it's your word against theirs about exactly what happened. Most judges (or police/insurers) would probably beleive the family that were "innocently driving along and was suddenly cut off by a reversing car." I have heard cases where the fault cannot be placed (50/50 as you guys call it), and both of you have to pay your own premiums. If the damage was minimal, you could offer to pay for your and their repairs without going through your insurers, but i'm guessing that your premium is going to be a lesser cost in this situation. Incidentally, if you hit a pedestrian that was illegally crossing the road, you aren't at fault (as long as you can prove it... a witness is helpful), same as if you intentionally rammed an unregistered car that was driving... if it/he/she isn't supposed to be there in the first place, in theory, you wouldn't hit it/he/she if it actually wasn't there.

$16?? Do you have a pic of one of the bulbs? Or can you take a pic of one next to a 5c piece? I'm about to do the same thing in my R33, and there's no chance i'm paying that much for those globes. Don't forget that Nissan are the same people that want $189 for an 02 sensor! ;op

Mine is crunchy going into 2nd, more on the upshift from first to 2nd, but crunchy nonetheless. 3rd doesn't feel totally smooth on upshift, but is fine on shifting down to it. 1st and 4th are perfect. It'd be interesting to see how much a synchro change would cost! EDIT: Mine's an R33 s2 GTST also, with 160,000 on the clock.

Congrats! And who do I talk to about my shonky wood glue? ;op

Work wants me to have my CCNA within 4 months (as of a month ago)... I have my MCP, and i'll get my MCDST (easy easy easy) soon just for the heck of it. MCSE may teach you what you need to know to easily get a helpdesk kind of job, or entry-level server support role, but a CCNA is more likely to get you into the bigger-dollar kind of roles. Go for what you want to do first, but in the end, it wouldn't hurt to get both. =-]

yep, I got an Autowatch system installed a few weeks ago. The installer will give you a certificate to say that it complies... for your insurance agency. I got the 2nd from the top alarm/immobiliser. It's pretty good, except the installer was having some issues with the remote distance. (A case of positioning the transmit wire a bit better). Cost me $550, http://www.autowatch.com.au/product.asp 446Premium, with the 4-button remote. Other brands had big, ugly remotes... this one has a built-in turbo timer, "car finder" feature, and I had the guy put a solenoid in the boot so the dual-stage unlock will pop the boot for me. (very handy when you're coming back to the car with a bunch of shopping) The guy who did it for me is from "Security In Motion", but just call Autowatch if you're interested, and ask for a local installer to you.

Oh... the service manual is in a thread just a couple of threads down from this one... (atm).

Search for and download the R33 service manual that a kind member has hosted. Download that PDF file, and go to the section on timing belts. It has images of the different conditions a belt may be in, and how often to change them. Handy to have the service manual anyway... hope this helps!

Knocking and pining are the same thing, differently worded. I beleive tuning the car would allow it to run on lower octane fuel, but you'd want to be even more sure that the air temps are cool especially on hotter days. If you are going to mod, and run more boost, the summer air could cause some pinging if you don't run an appropriate intercooler. That's my input, but i'm sure that more veteran-style users will give you better info. =-]

Jesus it's comments like this that have made me UBER paranoid about my Skyline! Now that it has a full alarm system through it, i'm a little less cautious. Before the alarm, Carlo suggested that I tape up the passenger-side door unlock button that is on the drivers side door. (in an R33) The other suggestion was to unplug (slightly so it doesn't show) the AFM plug. The car would apparently barely run in this state. I recken disconnecting the battery by removing the grounding cable altogether (again, in an R33) would do the job. I can't imagine any theif having spare cable with them.