bradsm87

Maybe u need more squat than all round performance tho.

It's a combination of both subframe movement AND squat. U should NEVER lower the subframe in any way. This lowers ur already too low roll centre. Putting pineapples above the front bushes for squat does this. A much better alternative is to raise the rear of the subframe. Then you're fixing squat without lowering roll centre. Less keyboard more car. Just do it lol.

chop the tops off the rear 2 subframe bushes. This will slightly increase squat and won't shock the wheels down to the road as much wen u dump the clutch.

Haltech Platinum Interceptor piggyback!

Thought so. Cheers

Is it normal for there to be pretty much no flow throught one of the tips? There is black in the one with no noticable flow so it's had exhaust through it. Is this a problem or a design feature? Cheers, Brad

Definately not true

They are cheap ricer rubbish. Give me stock suspension over them ANY DAY.

That's a good width and offset for an R33. Put 235/40R18's on. They are only very slightly stretched on 9.5's. They look WAY better on the rim than 265's. Just roll the lip up under the guards and everything will be sweet. Wen the wheel travels up into the wheel arch, it cambers in too. It'll look sweet and not rub with 235's.

Absolutely. RB26 cams should be used with solid lifters.

I know what you're getting at with one offsetting the other but that won't be ANYWHERE NEAR accurate enough. R32 ECU's are very cheap to remap though so maybe U should look into even a mail-order remap for the time being.

I know someone who tried a stock R32 GTR diff in a drift car and it open wheeled at the worst times. They don't have a very agressive ramp angle which means it doesn't lock that much under acceleration. I've always wondered how a stock GTR diff would go if U ground the angled bit that the pin pushes against to a more aggresive 'wedge'. I dunno wat either are called lol.

Pineapples by themself squashing the stock bushes are rubbish. I chop the tops off all the stock bushes, leaving about 3mm of rubber on the back 2 to avoid metal-on-metal contact and leave about 8mm on the front 2 to angle it towards squat a little, put the subframe back in place, THEN put the pineapples underneath. This makes a heap of difference and is still quieter than solid alloy bushes. Also there is a huge amount of movement and bounciness in the rear lower control arm bushes. U can see marks on the metal where the bush has touched but the bush is about 5mm away when still! Grab some delrin rear LCA bushes from cazmanindustries.com and that'll stop a lot of tramping imo. Unfortunately, the whole driveline is supported by rubber bushes so if u want it the best that it can be, u'd be going with nismo engine, gearbox and diff mounts too. It all helps.

Put automatic transmission fluid in a manual?

Blitz SBC-iD Spec R. Anything under that, I'd prefer a Turbotech.

Hypertune do a 66mm Nissan bolt-on TB. Also I think U can get Greddy RB25 plenums with the flange for an N15 70mm TB.

Hypertune do a 66mm Nissan bolt-on TB. Also I think U can get Greddy RB25 plenums with the flange for an N15 70mm TB.

The HKS GT-RS and the Garrett 707160-10 are the same turbo!

I was under the impression that R32 GTR airboxes aren't that great and the R33 and R34 ones are really good.

Z32 AFM's are bigger, cheaper and much more readily available. You'll just need air filters to match the bigger size. No reason to go Nismo IMO. DO NOT lower compression unless U want it to be laggier. No reason to upgrade head gasket, injectors, coil packs or cam gears at that power level. Just bump the fuel pressure up a bit with the stock injectors.

Offset has NOTHING to do with brake clearance. It's all to do with the design of the wheel centres.

The GT3076R is more efficient over a wider flow range than the 3071. I'd recommend the less-common GT3076R 52 Trim .82. Should make full boost at 3500 and pull HARD from then onwards. The 52 Trim will be more responsive than the more common 56 Trim.

The HKS GT2540 aka Garrett GT2876R is an AWFUL turbo. The compressor is way too big for the turbine. You will get better response and make MUCH more power with a Garrett GT3071R .63.

Not if U use Tomei cams which use a thicker buckets and smaller base diameter cams. I would use 270 duration 10.8mm lift.

DON'T use a GT3082R .63 as an example of ALL GT30 turbos. I think your best bet is to chuck on a GT3076R .82 and U won't be disappointed. They're good for about 330rwkw (440hp) with stock cams and about 360rwkw (480hp) with some drop-in 260 tomei cams or similar. Should hit boost hard at 3500 and just HAUL to redline. I just read your first post. I hope that's 400 kilowatts at the wheels and not horsepower. If it's horsepower, you can make MORE than that with 3076. I'm guessing it's horsepower because there's no way a walbro in-tank could supply enough fuel for 400rwkw.