bradsm87

740's in an RB25 or SR20 need +0.08 latency, NOT +0.14

Things like caster rods etc don't need to be "tried and really tested". It's this mentality that holds things up from moving forward (look at the T04Z fanboys for example). The material is as strong or stronger than cusco. The bearings are better so there is no need to wait for a zillion people to use em first. Youknow they're gonna be great.

I don't think many ppl adjust the offset bushes but rather put em in at the max caster setting and if nothing's bent, it'll be fine.

the sump breather should be on the intake side so more blow-by goes out the breather instead of up the oil returns due to the direction the crank spins. Head drain to exhaust side and sump breather to intake side is the go.

Oil return from head goes to exhaust side of sump so oil gets sucked out rather than blown up. Other than that, looks good.

Put em on. They'll be sweet. Just roll the guard lip up and it'll prob be all good. It has a lot of camber gain on the rear so as the wheel comes up, the top pulls in.

It's DEFINATELY DEFINATELY worth paying the extra for a new GTX4294R. It's obviously ball bearing and has the brand new "GTX-R" compressor wheel. it'll spool quicker than a GT4294 and make a heap more power and be efficient at a bigger boost range. It's the bee's knees. Don't forget to get a high quality split pulse exhaust manifold with either twin wastegates or a single wastegate as long as there is a splitter in the manifold sealing against the wastegate.

That's heaps. It's easy to change yourself. Call morrie from horsepowerinabox an ask him wat his best price on that housing is. I reckon $500 max.

Should just stick with twins and go a pair of -9 turbos. If U must go single which isn't necessary for that power level, I'd go with a GT3076R .82.

Super streets are already under-damped for the spring rate used. The dampers are SHIT and it would be an EPIC fail.

SEMA has come and gone. No new info on the net. I've got a mate who's very keen to replace his twin -5's on a JUN 2.7 RB26 with something a bit bigger. I'm thinkin a GTX4088R twin scroll 1.06 would do the trick. Finally there will be no denying that Garrett has a T04Z KILLER!!! Anyone got compressor maps of the GTX turbos?

I had 7's and changed to 50% E85 and it was a bitch to start cold, missfired a shitload until fully warmed up and also misfired when first putting foot down after cruising for ages. Tried all sorts of fuel mixtures when cold. Changed to a 6 and all those probs went away.

Dampers are the most important part of a coilover, not spring rates. Get the coilovers with the best dampers. Spring rates can be EASILY changed. Putting super streets on a GTR is a downgrade from stock suspension IMO.

I don't understand how anyone could buy cheap coilovers with EDFC wen U can get much better ones without EDFC for the same price. Most race cars don't even run anything like that.

I wouldn't get anything less than Mono Flex. At least then ur getting acceptable shocks for the money. U can get softer springs for em cheap. If suspension isn't worth that much to U, just get some gold BC Racing coilovers for $1200. They'll do the job and be better than Tein Super Street and have separate height and preload adjustment.

External oil return Oil restrictor Oil cooler Bigger swaybars

225/40R18 should fit fine and they are the more correct size in terms of outer diameter for the car. They'll be narrower and smaller in diameter so they'll def be fine. If for some reason they don't, stick some 5mm slip-on spacers on too.

370/480 = 0.77 S15 injectors are 0.52, stock injectors are 0.58 so the latency should be MINUS 0.06 aka -0.06 Should be sweet after that.

Either they 'corrected' the timing which they shouldn't have or they put regular unleaded in it.

Nismo or Tomei (same thing) have a better spray pattern than sard and don't require collars so it's worth the extra. 555's would be the go.

Nismo suspension is the same. Heavier on the rear. I'm pretty sure stock is the same too. Also Nissan, Nismo and Cusco ALL run stiffer rear swaybars too.

Put the stock slave back in and bleed it well and it should do the trick. Most triple plates etc. already have modified pivot points for easier operation but they need the full travel of the stock slave.

Those S.Tech rates look about right. Slightly stiffer on the rear to help reduce understeer which GTR's have a tendency to do.

People putting nozzles before the throttle body has nothing to do with the fact that it's a throttle body, it's because that's the last point before the plenum where the air spreads to the cylinders.

Def not worth re-coring the turbo IMO. The wheels and housings make all the difference. If ball bearings made that much difference, Trust would've changed to ball bearings years ago. Thought about something like a Garrett GT3582R?