bradsm87

I thought i made it clear. IN THE COLD PIPE BEFORE THE PLENUM. Any earlier and it'll just hit the cooler piping walls and any later (like IN the plenum) will have uneven cylinder distribution. IN THE COLD PIPE BEFORE THE PLENUM

NO! The sharp edge of the spring must face the bolt and the flat edge face the ball.

HKS GT2835 ideal RB25 bolt-on for 250-300. Another good option would be a Garrett GT3071R on stock manifold with an external wastegate flange welded on or one of the new garrett internal gate gt30 housings.

Oh sorry man yeh a lot of gates don't have preload adjustment. My bad.

Shit yeah that'd be good. One of my clickers are pretty buggered. clicks sometimes and sometimes doesn't then sometimes free spins like it's not even adjusting.

Have u tried backing the spring preload right off?

OK u keep ur turbo from the stone ages but a GT4088R with a proper sealed twin scroll manifold and twin wastegates will spool up faster than a T04Z and make more power. So many ppl follow the "proven" combos but times change and things improve but nobody wants to try because they've never seen a it and a dyno sheet on a forum.

Garrett GT4088R with a proper split pulse twin scroll manifold would win hands down for most responsive 450rwkw.

Nozzle before the cooler is stupid. U want to keep the air hot before the intercooler so the intercooler actually has something to do. The hotter the air, the more heat the intercooler can remove. In theory, just after the intercooler is best but the insides of the piping get droplets of water everywhere. In practice, the best place is about 100mm before the beginning of the plenum (where the throttle body would be if it had a single). DO NOT mount on the plenum or it'll have extremely uneven cylinder distribution.

Definately 38mm, no bigger. Up to you what brand. The Tial MV-S is the most compact and newest design.

U need to change the ECU or remap and re-tune for the AFM.

So true. That's goin on my sig!

Also a side mount intercooler will be no good. What U want is a FMIC mounted with the outlets at the top under the radiator support where the air con evaporator goes and very short piping straight to the turbo on one side and straight to the throttle body on a forward facing plenum on the other side. Very short piping = good response.

U need to use different pistons to acheive the compression u want and leave the deck height standard otherwise it'll throw the cam timing out heaps. Think about it, as u shave the block, the timing belt isn't getting shorter so the cams turn around. Also U need to get the exact right turbo setup for 9.5:1 pistons to work well. U need a large a/r turbine housing and a turbo that'll flow what u want efficiently on low boost.

A single GT2530 is waaaay too small for a RB30DET. It would choke the engine up in the higher revs big time. Also U'd be looking at a fair bit more than 200rwkw even with awesome response. I'd suggest 9.5:1 compression pistons with a 52 Trim GT3076R 1.06 running about 10psi. I reckon that's the closest to the V8 kinda feel u'll get. Won't hit boost like a light switch and will make a lot of torque even off boost. Would prob make about 280rwkw.

All those turbos are too restrictive in the turbine housings for a 4L engine IMO. I'd go with twin GT2860RS .86's. It's similar to -5 turbos but more free flowing on the exhaust side. A lot more free flowing without choking things up. U can wind in a lot more timing and gain a lot of the response lost back. Also u can make more power on lower boost so better on the engine.

LOL mate he's right. Seems that you are the Honda ricer. It's common knowledge superlows on stock shocks handle like absolute shit. Do ur research.

Maybe they cut the TPS wire (the one on the plug the transmission uses) instead of splicing into it.

They also get noisy when the mesh on them gets blocked and the pump starts to cavitate. A mate's car did that till we cleaned it.

I'd def prefer HKS GT2835's. They're a bit bigger than the GT2871R's in the turbine wheel which is exactly what the GT2871R needs.

Width and offset together are factors of where the wheel sits in the guard. 18x7.5 +45 is clearly designed for front wheel drive small cars, not r33's. U need to be looking at at least 8.5 inches wide and offset between +25 and +15

Caliper clearance depends on wheel design. That width and offset would look like ABSOLUTE SHIT! Like HEAPS inside the guards. Would look like a tram! Do not buy!

They'd prob be OK with the right sized tyres and rolled guards but boy would 19's look awful on an R32 GTR!

Why go bigger ex cam on a turbo setup that is limited by the turbine flow? The GT-RS turbine chokes up before the compressor runs out of puff.

Good move. That's wat I woulda said