bradsm87

67% 0.12 latency Stock is 0.58 and nismo 555's are 0.71 so 0.13 difference. Power FC rounds to the nearest 2.

Compared to a GT3071R, i think it's a low boost turbo. If u look at the differencer between the compressor maps of both, the 76 has wider lower islands where the 71 has higher narrower islands.

A proper T3 GT3071R with a .63 turbine housing would be much better suited to an RB20.

Move the boost pickup to the cold pipe instead of the hot pipe if it isn't already. This helps reduce boost tapering down. Also GT3076R's are designed for low boost with their T04E 0.6 compressor housing so i wouldn't go higher than 19psi or so on one anyway. Try to get it to hold 19psi with the pickup on the cold pipe.

Shit yeh. Tomei already use different cam timing for best balance of response and power so the cams wouldn't cost as much if u just get the cams without gears. Most tuners don't take the time to tune cam gears to their best anyway.

A turbotech and an ebc with the gain set to max it'll go without spiking will come on to boost pretty much the same so i'd say zero rpm difference.

run a line and t-piece directly from the plenum to the actuators, preload the actuators to about 2psi lower than the boost u wanna run then put a turbotech in and wind it up to the boost u want. This setup will give u pretty much the fastest possible boost response.

I can't believe after all the info that's been getting round, people are still considering the -7 turbo's. -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 the -9 spools up about the same as -7 turbos the -9 makes more power than -7 turbos the -9 generate less heat than -7 turbos the -9 is a newer and better in every way version of the -7 that costs the same yep, the -9's will JUST do 300 with stock cams and about 19psi of boost or easy 300kw on 17psi with a set of 256 cams. Yep 550cc injectors will support 300 easy. the -5's will obviously do more but it'll be laggier and u'll max out ur injectors before U see the potential of the -5's.

Why not just use a higher petrol mix rather than using lower octane petrol?

That's power limited, not revs limited I'm pretty sure. I think when I still had the stock diff in my S14 which is also 3.69:1, it did about 245 at about 6200rpm then backed off lol.

They're both pretty shit and I'd take a $37 turbotech over either of those. The only EBC that's worth getting IMO is the Blitz SBC i-D Spec R. It actually brings on boost hard and holds it there as well as being very easy to configure, even in manual mode.

3.69:1 is def too tall. Just swap the Nismo centre into the R33 diff. If really want a bit taller ratio, 3.9:1 out of an S14/S15 auto would be the furthest i'd go.

Nobody rates atmo pssssssh noise any more anyway. That was sooo 90's lol. Just get a nice high flowing plumb back.

I used to have a Stealth FX which is a non-remote version of that. It was shit. The ports are way too small eg when it's on full plumb back, u still get a shit load of flutter even on the loosest setting and car stutters as if it had no bov at all. Upgraded to a turbosmart plumb back with a 34mm outlet and it's all sweet now. When i back off now, it's smooth as and no flutter.

Is it a proper GT3076R with a 60mm turbine wheel or one of the 56mm ones? If it's a 56mm one, consider urself lucky U have that much power. If it is a 60mm one of the new proper GT30 .82 internal gate housings then i would expect it to make a bit more. Easy way to know is if it says 0.86, it's a crappy GT28 one, if it says 0.82, it's a proper GT30 one.

if by very high flow cat, u mean a hollowed out cat, u need to put a 3" straight pipe in it so it doesn't cause turbulence.

They prob only aligned toe. Most alignments from workshops are useless. Bigger wider wheels with low profile tyres do make existing problems much more noticeable.

Obviously it can be machined to fit the wheel but U can't change the A/R ratio of the housing with machining.

Get a wheel alignment and see if it's still there. I know the feeling and it can be because of the larger scrub radius of using wheels with less than stock offset. Alignment should help a lot. More caster will also help a lot so consider a whiteline caster kit or similar.

I'm still not 100% sure what stock A/R turbine housings are on the stock turbos but most ppl say they're .48 or something. The stock compressor housings are .42. The 707160-9 wheels would prob work better in the factory machined housings.

Just to avoid confusion for others, putting ideal spec wheels in the stock housings won't make it the same as -5 turbos because the -5 turbos use a 0.6 compressor housing and 0.64 turbine housing.

http://www.perfectrun.jp/src/detail.php?pi...result_mode=pmk ARC turnflow is by far the best for what U want. Their patented core design kicks ass over all the others

The flaw in that is the -7 doesn't have more response than the -9.

Better means same or better response, ability to keep making power further and more of it too, ability to run a much wider range of boost levels and still have it in it's efficiency range and net good results, less heat generated so healthier on the engine. The list goes on and on. It's ok if a car already has -7 turbos but u'd have to be crazy to buy them now when -9's are available.

I think twin -5's are cheaper because U can use stock manifolds, oil lines and water lines. You'd need a set of drop-in cams like Tomei Poncam Type B at minimum but nothing else is really necessary head wise. U'll obviously need forged pistons and oil control mods sorted as well but i think ur question is specific to the head? Cheers, Brad