bradsm87

Probably similar to stock. not a lot.

I wouldn't do it. Adds a lot of extra piping on RB25's because their turbo outlet and throttle body are both on the same side so lots of piping wen u add a front mount unless U get a forward facing plenum.

yeh it seals fine. Stock actuators bolt on. Turbos have oil restrictors built in to the oil inlet but may need more if ur running a lot of oil pressure. My mate has run a tomei pump for a couple of yrs without extra restrictors so should be sweet.

The flange for the oil drain has the bolt holes closer together on the newer garretts. All u need to do is slot the holes closer to the centre on the stock oil drains with a file. I dunno what the actuators on em are. I think most just buy the 707160-x and use stock actuators.

If they're stock, Get some 225/45R17's and she'll be sweet. Anything bigger is too wide for the rim.

That cam and turbo match is pretty wrong. Cams too big for the turbos ur using. Response AND power will suffer. If it's response ur after, the VERY biggest I'd go would be 260 degree 10.25mm lift but i think with a stroker and -7 or -9 turbos, ur already gonna max out the turbos with 256 cams so why not just go 256? Don't use -7 turbos unless u already have em. The -9 turbos are much more efficient and continue to make power a fair bit further. -9's are pretty much a newer, better version. Same spool-up, more power.

About 18-20psi with stock cams. About 15-17psi with some 256 cams. That's with -9 turbos. Don't use-7's as they're older and less efficient.

Definately Garrett 707160-9's are what U want! Will JUST make 300 wwith stock cams. More with aftermarket cams obviously.

Just get someone decent to roll the guards. It won't crack if they do it properly. The guard is curved so i can't see water getting stuck above the lip. If u really don't want to, just get some 255 tyres.

The 'crap' is pretty much just oil with a little water that'll evaporate out. Better that than losing oil to the catch can on the track and running the sump dry.

Depends on what the coilovers are if it's worth changing springs. If they're some old discontinued coilovers that came on the car fromjapan or if they were bought second hand, they're prob still gonna be shit. What are they?

U need a way bigger sump vent than the dipstick hole and it needs to be on the other side of the engine. It needs to be big enough so there is bugger all air blowing up the oil return galleries. If u wanna do the minimum to it vent the intake side of the sump to the bottom of the catch can using a large hose and the 2 rocker cover breathers to the top of the catch can. put a big breather on it. That way crankcase won't be contantly blowing up the return galleries and any oil in the catch can will drain back down.

The nismo fuel reg could've come at ANY pressure. They aren't pre-set from factory. Most mechanics would b too dumb to set em as they'd just assume they come how they're meant to be. Check fuel pressure or put stock reg back on. U don't need to compensate for a high flow pump, the stock reg does that.

Wat u on about man? ALL of the aftermarket twins from GT-SS to GT2835 ALL have .64 housings and i think stock turbos do also.

TELL ME you set the fuel pressure to factory specs with the vacuum hose unhooked on the new fuel pressure reg? Actually even easier, unless u have a bigger turbo, I can't see u maxing out the standard injectors. Ur prob best to avoid the headaches and put the stock fuel pressure regulator back in. What did U want to acheive by puttin an aftermarket one in?

It cracks apart because the drive spreads it apart as it turns.

Yep z32 better

The Nismo AFM aren't better than Z32's. They're just smaller so they fit on the standard air box. You can either get a power intake kit to suit the BNR34 with Z32 AFMs which comes with a couple of bends and a mounting kit or for a fair bit cheaper, you can just get a pair of Apexi pods that bolt straight on to Z32's and mount em how u want em (part number 500-A022 TIMES TWO). The power intake kit for the standard AFM's won't fit.

Have a chat to Powertune in NSW about their RB26 oil pump gear sets. Made out of somethin crazy like P20 tool steel or somethin and the same size as a JUN gear set and they can machine the stock housing to suit.

Maybe they weren't comparing them to the right 2860's or there were other variables involved. -9's can make 330rwkw with the right supporting mods and they're noticably more responsive than -5's or 2530's. I would recommend the -9's. A much nicer responsive street turbo.

What do U mean by that? Both HKS and Garrett use the 59.4mm 56T compressor and 53.8mm 62T turbine. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...ss/ac_gtss.html The one on the bottom is the RB26 one

The greddy might 'work' but they really are rubbish. A turbotech will bring boost on harder and control it just as well when it gets there and they're $39 so I'd say that's ur best value for money.

The dual solenoid controls pressure smoother and more accurately compared to others that sorta end up more 'pulsey' The SBC i-D series boost controllers have a fairly large screen compared to most others. I'm not referring to the old one (dual-sbc) which does have a very small screen.

-7's and N1's are older and inferior to the newer, better -9/GT-SS -5 and GT2530 are VERY similar but i think the 2530 is 63 trim and the -5 is 62 trim. VERY similar tho. If you don't plan on upgrading camshafts, I would recommend the -9 turbo instead of the -5. The -9 is good for about 300rwkw, maybe a little more. Croydon Racing Develpoments are pretty cheap and usually stock both the turbos and the Z32's. Jesse Streeter ([email protected]) is the best bet for Japan parts. MUCH faster than nengun and usually a little cheaper. If U are contemplating not doing any oil control mods due to money, you can get away with keeping the stock injectors and AFM's for the time being and run a pair of -9 turbos on about 1 bar. Should make about 280rwkw.

The difference between the -9 and -7 is mainly in the design of the wheel rather than the difference in size. It is a big difference in efficiency. The -9 (GT-SS) is much more efficient and over a broader flow range.