bradsm87

both the GT2859R turbos are identical other than the actuator (stock actuator can be used anyway). One shouldn't be referred to as 'old' or 'new' as it would confuse the hell out of some people. It's entirely a matter of choice whether or not one chooses an actuator but it's the same turbo.

2x Garrett GT2860R 707160-5 (VERY VERY similar to GT2530's but a fair bit cheaper. A much better value turbo so U can spend the saved money elsewhere.) - buy within australia 2x Bosch Z32 AFM - buy within australia 2x Apexi pod filter for Z32 AFM - buy from Japan 6x Nismo 600cc injectors - buy from Japan Nismo fuel pump - buy from Japan HKS S-Type oil cooler kit - buy from Japan EXTERNAL OIL RETURN AT THE VERY LEAST FOR OIL CONTROL! Is worth paying the extra for a Nismo sump baffle as well though. Ur engine will more than likely die very shortly after unless U do these mods. Yes, the engine will have to come out. That stuff together should make a reliable 330-ish rwkw. With a pair of Tomei poncam type b's (260 in and ex) and a fuel pressure reg, will be good for 380-ish rwkw. Stock manifolds are fine. Just make sure U port out the holes that meet the turbos out to the full size. The 2x bosch Z32's and a pair of apexi pods to bolt on will cost about the same as a pair of smaller nismo afm's so the Z32's are obviously the way to go.

A lock bar replaces the HICAS rack and motor etc so definately saves weight.

I'd prefer a decent lock bar instead of a bit that bolts on on each end as a bar is much more rigid and doubles as a brace. The good ones are hollow aluminium and weigh bugger all.

Blitz dual solenoid beats all the others hands down. This is the 13th post down and I thought this was VERY common knowledge. The latest iteration is the SBC i-D Spec R http://translate.google.com/translate?prev...history_state0=

Sounds like running lean or a timing issue. Check afr and timing.

The -7 is pretty much outdated. Same as an N1 turbo The -9 is the same as the current HKS GT-SS turbos. A really good choice for a responsive 270-320rwkw with drop in 256 degree 9.1mm lift cams The -5 is very similar to the HKS GT2530 and is good for 350-400rwkw with 260 degree high lift cams They come with .64 turbine housings. The optional .86 turbine housings don't bolt up to GTR dump pipes and are a bit big for 1.3L worth of engine anyway. I could see the .86 working with -5 turbos on a high compression RB26/30 but def not a stock RB26.

Try a turbotech for $37.50 first. They bring boost on as fast as physically possible by design.

Nah won't take long at all. Put 4mm of preload on the actuator before U go there and find out what boost it's running on the dyno. Adjust preload if necessary to get it on about 15-16psi then cut the boost line, chuck in the turbotech in and adjust to 18 or watever.

it did both because with creep sorted, u can run more preload and/or reduce the boost the actuator sees (increase boost) but still have the same boost up high. I can't explain it very well.

Yep mine did that and more preload helped a bit but the thing that fixed it once and for all was enlarging the tiny internal wastegate hole.

I was thinkin the same. How much preload is on it? On my GT2871R, the garrett rod maxed out was still like 3mm so I had to grind bits down to get it to screw in shorter.

707160-9: 707160-7: To cut a long story short, the -9 is a much more efficient turbo over a much broader flow range.

Or just add preload to the stock one with washers where it bolts to the compressor housing.

Who told U that? Petrol thins out oil if diluted in much the same way. I'm not sure of the boiling points of both but I know they're both lower than water.

10 and 8 is too stiff. 8 and 7 would be much better and prob understeer less due to the better front to rear balance. More important than spring rate is getting a set with really good shocks. No cheap shit. Tein Mono Flex would be perfect http://www.tein.co.jp/search/search1.cgi?a...SAN〈=en A set of bigger swaybars are also pretty much essential for drift.

Would be better to hide a Jaycar boost controller under the dash and wire it up to the factory solenoid using the factory wiring from the ECU.

I dunno why people still have the idea that a -7 turbo is a good upgrade. The -9 turbo is better in EVERY way. It's much newer, a lot more efficient, has same spool-up and makes a fair bit more power. Too many ppl think the -7 is the Garrett equivalent to the GT-SS but it's the -9 that's the GT-SS. The -7 should be discontinued.

I haven't ever seen or heard of ANY tyre retailer that cares enough to choose the right width and offset wheels for a car EVER. You gotta do ur own research and tell em EXACTLY wat u want.

Lol I'd say 90% of the population would say a 245 on an 8 looks like ass. I'm a fan of MILD stretch myself. Like 245 on a 9.5 looks about right depending on brand and type IMO. Less sidewall flex too.

U can never EVER get a set of wheels to look good without rolling the guards. It's a common misconception that rolling is flaring. Rolling the guards is very common and simply means carefully rolling the horizontal lip up to near vertical. This can be done quite easily without cracking and allows U to run ur wheels about 0 - 5mm in from the edge of the guard like they should be. It'll handle better, ride better and look better in 18". Are U saying it only comes in 8" wide and 9.5" and nothing in between? I'd try and get 9" with about +25 offset front and 9.5 +30 rear to be on the safe side from rubbing with 235's front and back. U can fine tune the fitment from there to get it perfect with camber if necessary.

So it'd be even worse then if they're rolled. Would need at least 15mm spacers for the look u'r referring to. Stretch inside wheel arches = fail

He's not sayin he doesn't like the jap look, he's sayin you failed at the jap look lol. Tyres are only meant to be stretched that much if ur rims are hangin like 20mm out of the guards with a slight flare.

Go Nismo. They're more solid than stock but much quieter than most aftermarket stuff. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...inebnr32_02.pdf

ABSOLUTELY they improve handling for a daily. They're the best bang for buck handling mod IMO.