bradsm87

Also I have either a faulty lifter or i didn't bleed it properly (although i was so careful) as it taps when cold from the rear of the head (so definitely not vtc) and it shakes on idle. I look forward to re-bleeding the lifter and retuning with 1/3 ethanol and 2/3 98 ron.

I got lazy right at the end and didn't mix up fuel with ethanol and got it tuned on 98RON despite having 9.5:1 compression ratio. It couldn't really take any decent timing numbers at all. Still makes full boost at around 3200 and makes 258rwkw. Dyno printout is at home so will upload a pic tonight. Printout is in km/h rather than rpm at the moment so just trying to decypher it at the moment. I reallyneed to put a softer wastegate spring in it and lower the boost a bit to get a bit more timing into it imo.

I'm setting up the electronic boost control today/tomorrow then it's back to GT Garage on Tuesday for its final tune then I'll post up the dyno sheet.

I cut the dividers out of the side tanks in the factory air con condenser so that it is single pass rather than 3 pass which was too restrictive for water to flow through then had AzCustom seal up the bits that I cut and added a 19mm barbed fitting on either side of it. I'm using that as the radiator because it bolts right in and looks 100% stock from the outside. I'm running a Plazmaman 700hp pro series intercooler. I made a 2.5" to 2" ally reducer bend and had it welded to the compressor housing outlet. The inlet side of the intercooler has a roughly 90 degree 2.5" bend welded to it and the outlet side the same but in 2.75". Intake air temps were really good on the dyno but I'll wait and see how it holds up with more boost before I get too excited. I put that setup in half-prepared to have to buy another radiator instead of the modified AC condenser but so far, so good.

Spools great just off the wastegate spring at the moment. The dyno run starts at 2000rpm and it already has 4psi and reaches 12psi at around 3100rpm.

235rwkw @13psi at the moment for the run-in. Power was still climbing when stopping the run at about 6200rpm. Drives great. Can't wait to run it in and wind it up!

Car is in at the tuner as we speak.

I've heard from a lot of ppl that they're awesome. Maybe if they work on the physical appearance of their products and properly marketing them, they might sell some.

Match-boit will tell you if boost is possible or not at a given RPM once you map the turbine curves. 2700 is pushing it very fine I know because the % of wastegated gas is pretty much nothing. I more chose the 7064 for the lower ex manifold pressure than anything else and it looks to be considerably lower, especially up top. That way, timing can be advanced more, exhaust gas can escape easier and VE will be higher. Technically, I should raise the VE numbers a bit for the 7064 due to this. What would you use for the VE figures for those RPM points with Tomei 256 cams and a mild port job? I thought mine were about right but I really don't know what the real-world VE numbers would be.

6758: http://www.turbodriven.com/performanceturbos/matchbot/index.html#version=1.2&displacement=2.16&CID=131.8032&altitude=250&baro=14.604&aat=70&turboconfig=1&compressor=67x80&pt1_rpm=2700&pt1_ve=88&pt1_boost=13&pt1_ie=93&pt1_filres=0.08&pt1_ipd=0.15&pt1_mbp=0.7&pt1_ce=59&pt1_te=75&pt1_egt=1580&pt1_ter=1.57&pt1_pw=11.65&pt1_bsfc=0.43&pt1_afr=11.5&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=3600&pt2_ve=97&pt2_boost=13&pt2_ie=90&pt2_filres=0.1&pt2_ipd=0.2&pt2_mbp=0.9&pt2_ce=68&pt2_te=73&pt2_egt=1620&pt2_ter=1.68&pt2_pw=31.99&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=11.5&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=4500&pt3_ve=100&pt3_boost=14&pt3_ie=87&pt3_filres=0.12&pt3_ipd=0.25&pt3_mbp=1.1&pt3_ce=72&pt3_te=72&pt3_egt=1650&pt3_ter=1.83&pt3_pw=40.71&pt3_bsfc=0.48&pt3_afr=11.5&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=5400&pt4_ve=100&pt4_boost=15.5&pt4_ie=84&pt4_filres=0.15&pt4_ipd=0.3&pt4_mbp=1.4&pt4_ce=74&pt4_te=71&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=2.02&pt4_pw=44.69&pt4_bsfc=0.5&pt4_afr=11.5&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=6300&pt5_ve=98&pt5_boost=17.5&pt5_ie=81&pt5_filres=0.18&pt5_ipd=0.35&pt5_mbp=1.7&pt5_ce=74&pt5_te=70&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=2.26&pt5_pw=45.73&pt5_bsfc=0.52&pt5_afr=11.5&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=7200&pt6_ve=91&pt6_boost=19.5&pt6_ie=78&pt6_filres=0.2&pt6_ipd=0.4&pt6_mbp=2&pt6_ce=71&pt6_te=70&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=2.5&pt6_pw=44.86&pt6_bsfc=0.55&pt6_afr=11.5&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044& 7064: http://www.turbodriven.com/performanceturbos/matchbot/index.html#version=1.2&displacement=2.16&CID=131.8032&altitude=250&baro=14.604&aat=70&turboconfig=1&compressor=70s75&pt1_rpm=2700&pt1_ve=88&pt1_boost=13&pt1_ie=93&pt1_filres=0.08&pt1_ipd=0.15&pt1_mbp=0.7&pt1_ce=63&pt1_te=78&pt1_egt=1580&pt1_ter=1.43&pt1_pw=0.83&pt1_bsfc=0.43&pt1_afr=11.5&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=3600&pt2_ve=97&pt2_boost=13&pt2_ie=90&pt2_filres=0.1&pt2_ipd=0.2&pt2_mbp=0.9&pt2_ce=73&pt2_te=75&pt2_egt=1620&pt2_ter=1.51&pt2_pw=23.4&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=11.5&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=4500&pt3_ve=100&pt3_boost=14&pt3_ie=87&pt3_filres=0.12&pt3_ipd=0.25&pt3_mbp=1.1&pt3_ce=76&pt3_te=72&pt3_egt=1650&pt3_ter=1.64&pt3_pw=32.31&pt3_bsfc=0.48&pt3_afr=11.5&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=5400&pt4_ve=100&pt4_boost=15.5&pt4_ie=84&pt4_filres=0.15&pt4_ipd=0.3&pt4_mbp=1.4&pt4_ce=75&pt4_te=71&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=1.8&pt4_pw=35.64&pt4_bsfc=0.5&pt4_afr=11.5&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=6300&pt5_ve=98&pt5_boost=17.5&pt5_ie=81&pt5_filres=0.18&pt5_ipd=0.35&pt5_mbp=1.7&pt5_ce=72&pt5_te=70&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=2.01&pt5_pw=36.52&pt5_bsfc=0.52&pt5_afr=11.5&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=7200&pt6_ve=91&pt6_boost=19.5&pt6_ie=78&pt6_filres=0.2&pt6_ipd=0.4&pt6_mbp=2&pt6_ce=71&pt6_te=70&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=2.17&pt6_pw=35.91&pt6_bsfc=0.55&pt6_afr=11.5&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044& Obviously with Ethanol in the fuel, EGTs will be lower, BSFC witll be lower which sorat cancel each other out to an extent so I just left the default petrol figures in there. VE is a guess for the engine with Tomei Poncams.

This is compressor efficiency followed by exhaust manifold pressure for the 6758 up top then the 7064 below. I'm very comfortable with match-bot and the VE numbers are definately in the ball park. I'll post links later as I didn't save them. 2700 3600 4500 5400 6300 7200 59 68 72 74 74 68 9.4 11.6 14.3 18.4 23 27.2 63 73 76 75 73 71 7.3 9 11.3 14.7 18.5 21.3

match bot says it can be done at 2600 but i'm not crossing my fingers for that lol but around 2800-3000 is definitely acheivable. The S14 made full boost at 3000 and that was 2L and 9:1 comp with a .86 turbine housing. The compressor wheel is smaller on the 7064 than the 2871r and the turbine wheel is lighter. It's not a big turbo. The anti-surge comp housing and divided turbine housing just make it look big.

No it will hit 14psi as soon as possible (est. around 2800rpm) and hold flat until the torque starts to drop off (est. around 4200rpm) and boost will slowly increase to counteract the drop-off of torque and hold the torque flat. The turbo is not too big for the application at all. Upsize engine and plan to run low boost and make efficient power = bigger turbo required. On match-bot, with NOTHING changed but going from 6758 to 7064, efficiency is higher across the board because the 7064 has a lower trim compressor wheel and anti-surge housing. Also the exhaust manifold pressure is considerably lower with the 7064. The twin scroll setup helps response as well. Lithium, I won't be doing a flat boost curve because the clutch or gearbox can not handle any more torque through the midrange. Instead, less peak torque will be made but higher average torque across the RPM range because torque will not drop off at all until about 6800rpm so it will be a very fast car.

I could be in for a big surprise with the power it makes then. The plan is to run 14psi from as soon as it can make it up to 4000rpm then taper up to 18 at about 6800 to hold the torque flat. It'll make whatever it makes at that boost. Could be 250. Could be 300. Don't really know.

That's not entirely true. If you want to stay in the efficiency range of a turbo at a given power level at lower boost, you generally need to upsize the turbo. You'll notice compressor map efficiency islands lean over to the right. Sorta hard to explain. Also I wouldn't be able to tune the engine the way I want it to unless it has a very high flowing turbine side with very low back pressure. Also because you're asking less boost of the turbo, the required speed to spin it up to is lower so response isn't too bad.

Remember we're talking 16psi. Yes I could make 300 on 23 odd psi and yes I could make the same power on a smaller turbo with more boost but that's not what this build is about. I'm after a flat na-like power delivery where the motor is making most of the power all by itself with the turbo giving it a bit extra. It's a daily for my wife and that type or torque curve is way better on fuel, tyres and gearboxes. My old S14 made 286rwkw with a GT2871R on 24psi of boost but this car should be completely different to drive to that. Better torque off boost and while building boost, able to run leaner and more aggressive timing due to lower overall boost and much better torque curve for a daily.

Not a huge amount as I want to keep the weak 6 speed box. Hoping for around 240rwkw @ 16psi with full boost by around 3000 and awesome response from off throttle to on. That's with poncams, 9.5:1 cr, 89.5mm bore (2.16L) and home mixed E50 fuel.

Yep

Mine should be going soon. Just waiting a few bits now...

Balance pipe loses you the separated pulses which is prob the number one advantage having twins in the first place.

I'm assuming RB20 manifolds are the same as RB25 ones and are divided (other than the 5mm gap which can be welded up)? Why would it be disgusting until 6000? Stock manifold will have better response than aftermarket. I am referring to the new smaller GTX3067R, not a typo of a GTX3076R. The divided .82 housing has better response than an open .63. This setup would be more responsive than a GT-RS/GT2871R with the right tuning and cam gears with a fair bit more top-end potential. Why would this be discusting until 6000? Disgusting on tyres I guess haha.

You mentioned fuel cut. There's no point upgrading the ECU if you're not going to remap or Nistune the ECU at least. I'd go a Garrett GTX3067R with an ATP divided .82 housing on stock manifold modded for external gate.

Thermos will be worse than the stock clutch fan. Vented bonnet will give the hot air a better easier way out and make it easier for more air to be drawn in from the front.

Engines are just air pumps. Air is air. It will perform well on a mild RB25 because a mild RB25 will pump about the same as a stroked 4G63 with mods. It work great on the 4G63. It'll work great on an RB25.

Why? The BorgWarner is better? If they're the same price, then the BW is far better value. U don't need to buy a BOV with the BW either.