bradsm87

Who said anything about lifters being a problem? Cams are one of the first upgrades that should be considered. Usually long before rebuilds, porting and way before n2o. Just stick in some hks step 1 264 cams and you're done. Don't worry about gears or anything. That along with turning boost down to about 1.7 to get it into the turbo's more efficient range should giv u a lot more midrange and more power too.

Go hks 264's then mate. They'll drop straight in. U should be able to make the same power on 1.5 bar with them which is more in the efficiency range of the turbo. Should hit a lot harder in the midrange too.

dude for that setup, u should be putting in at least procam 260/260 10.8mm. I'm surprised that turbo even spools up with the stock cams!

The gt-rs has a 52 trim with a 0.6 compressor housing. The gt2835pros has a 56 trim with a 0.5 compressor housing. The gt-rs has a 53mm 76 trim .64 t28 housing with a t3 flange. This is the big restriction. The gt2835pros has a 56mm 84 trim wheel with a .68 true t3 housing. This would flow more than even a .86 t2 housing. Anyway, it's a lot bigger than just a 'bee's dick' bigger.

I know u said ur settled on the 2 turbos but I feel so stronglt that they're both shit for an rb25! The GT-SS is SMALLER than the stock turbo so that rules that one out. The GT-RS has an OK compressor side but the turbine side is again, too small for an RB25. They choke up on the exhaust side up high and need lots of timing pulled out which only makes temperatures even worse. PLEASE, PLEASE consider a GT2835ProS bolt-on kit for the Neo! They have similar to the GT-RS compressor side but an exhaust side that will actually flow a bit. Much, much better turbo for an RB25.

I think the GT-RS has a way to small exhaust side for an RB25. Massive back-pressure up-top. The ultimate bolt-on responsive turbo for the RB25 has gotta be the HKS GT2835 Pro S bolt-on kit. http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...o/ac_gtpro.html It's pretty much the spot-on size in both the compressor side and the turbine side.

Maybe the microtech doesn't do electronic idle? If so, just adjust the throttle stopper to get the right idle.

The .86 would be too big for that smallish compressor eg. the compressor side would max out before the turbine side. I reckon a couple of GT-RS's / -10's would make more power and be more responsive.

If it still spikes even with the boost line going straight from the hotpipe to the actuator using a very short piece of hose (the combo least likely to spike), then I would be checking the preload on the wastegate. Sounds like U have too much. If it isn't adjustable, U might need to do some cutting and welding. Can U blow in the actuator boost line without the actuator leaking? Does the rod go straight out of the actuator (not on an angle)?

It totally depends on the efficiency range of the turbo and things like the thickness of the head gasket that effect compression of the engine.

U need to get yourself a whiteline rear camber kit which costs about $130 and will bring it in to about 1.25 degrees negative.

For the price of 19" semis, you coule almost get a dedicated set of 18" track rims to put semis on.

It will always be a compromise between cornering and straight line traction. Obviously get the best tyres you can get on the rear. Try running -0.5 degrees camber on the rear and 2mm total toe-in and see how that goes. I don't think any amount of alignment is gonna allow it to put 350rwkw down to the road too well tho.

By SAI, I mean in the outwards direction rather than forwards and backwards. An example of reducing the SAI but keeping the same camber: Move the camber tops to the full positive camber position then adjust the camber back to where it was using camber pins. I want to increase my caster to reduce the need for as much static camber to get better grip when braking on the track. I think I can get a LOT by moving the caster rods to the shortest possible length and adjusting the strut tops back as far as they will go. I have Tein Mono Flex coilovers and Ikeya formula roll centre adjuster LCA's on the front. If I can get 10 degrees of caster, would 2 degrees neg camber on the front be enough for track work?

they are the coolest wheels I've ever seen on a gtr. Perfect fitment. What size tyres are they? U'll prob need to spend more than 2k to get some good suspension to match. I'd get some tein mono flex coilovers, whiteline swaybars, caster kit and pineapples. I'm not sure if gtrs need camber kits when lowered for track use. I'd say you will.

I'm trying to make my car's suspension have the least amount of compromises possible. I have camber pins AND adjustable strut tops so I can adjust KPI and camber separately. I was thinking i'll set it up for the least possible amount of KPI angle to have the least amount of camber loss and jacking from the KPI when turning. What are the other pros/cons of changing the KPI angle? Also how much caster is too much for an S14 200SX? I have adjustable strut tops AND caster rods so i can get a LOT. Would 9.5 degrees be OK?

Falken Azenis RT615 FTW!

Try hard rear and medium front on the swaybars. Probably only a bandaid fix tho. I was just recently in exactly the same situation. Had the Sydneykid road kit and loved it on the street. I experienced understeer and bottoming out the shocks on the track. I've since installed Tein Mono Flex coilovers and am yet to try them out on the track. So far it seems that the springs are a little too stiff for the shocks and they need to be adjusted almost as high as they can go for them to feel like the shocks match the springs correctly. If money wasn't an oblect, I'd like to replace the 7kg/mm and 5kg/mm spring with 6 and 4.5. Another good option would be the sydneykid track kit which is probably a fair bit better shock than the Tein but doesn't have separate height and preload adjustment.

www.greenline.jp

So set them up so the car sits half way through the shock travel when stationary?

I've got some Tein Mono Flex coilovers on the way. They have adjustable preload so you can set where abouts in the full stroke of the shock the car sits when stationary on a level surface. I was thinkin I'll set them up so they are about 1/3 of the way down the shock stroke when the car is level so the hub has double the travel up ways (like hitting a bump or the outside wheels when cornering) than it does down ways (inside wheels when cornering) I really don't know what is ideal. I want the maximum possible "usable" travel. Does anyone know how to set these things up?

I had that EXACT same problem in my S14. Mine also went away with a Power FC.

Not necessarily. Get a timing light and check the timing.

Swap the turbo. Go a GT2871R .64 for up to 240rwkw Go a GT3071R .64 for 240-280rwkw.

I need to replace a rod in an N1 engine and need to know if a standard RB26 rod is exactly the same? Cheers, Brad