BLK33T

ohh lol that would definitely kill a stock turbo quick smart

VQ30DETT <-- 300 motor?

I'm intrigued ... do tell what is turbo dose?

its not the diameter of the exhaust so much that determines the volume its the amount of baffles and mufflers n shit that keep the noise down. hi-tech exhausts make hi performance street legal exhausts for all cars

creatine monohydrate is the best stuff to use if you going to use creatine ... the tri-malate and other sugar bonded ones have been proven not to work as effectively as the regular old mono hydrate its true that it does bloat the muscles up by forcing more water into them but its the added benefits of faster recovery and long term muscle gains that make it a worthwhile supplement. The three best supplements for the gym are in order: 1. Good quality mens multi-vitamin. 2. Protein Supplement 3. Creatine the first two are must haves the last one is only if you need it ... like if your stuck in a training rut or something the rest of the stuff that you can buy these days like test boosters etc etc are just a waste of money. remember also that large doses of protein makes you fart a heap so don't go to hectic on the stuff you really only need it after training and make sure if its pure whey you have it with a piece of fruit or bread cause you won't absorb it properly otherwise. hey dane_spec33 where do you get the ECA from I thought it was banned because of the ephedrine in it? ohh and the caffeine pills do work and there great for staying awake for studying

nws

there is a health food store near me that sells it .. its really only the caffeine in it that helps though ... it helps to raise your resting metabolic rate when I diet if I want an extra edge I use no-doze caffeine pills ... you can get 100 for like $20 or less from your local chemist ... pop 2~4 b4 cardio and 2~4 before you push weight and you'll notice a big difference!

JJR dump pipe is brilliant ... excellent fit ... superb flow ... when i fitted mine up boost jumped from standard 7 psi to 14psi ... which obviously caused issues with the standard ecu ... the only trouble is that one of the turbo water lines need to be slightly bent to ensure enough clearance. Just Jap don't make their own high flow cats though they use x-force ones best bet ... get a JJR split dump pipe and a high flow metal cat or catco cat

you need less work to get the RB26 to the power level that you are chasing ... RB26 has more after market support overseas than RB25 has if you are going to rebuild either motor my advice is to go with RB26 ... if your going to drag race get a big single ... if you are building it for the street or track go with a twin setup like t517z 0r 2530's turbos <--- correct me if I'm wrong but these turbos with a forged engine should see a very responsive 500hp with the right supporting mods and tune. and yes it is true that you can get the RB25 to the same power levels but you will need to lean on it harder to make the same power. you'll need at least cams and upgraded valve springs to reach the power levels you are looking at you will also need injectors 740cc or bigger and a massive fuel setup i.e. twin pumps, surge tank etc you'll need to revise the ignition setup too with upgraded coil packs etc etc. The bonus is that you don't need to port the head because it flows very well as standard 1000hp + is not a problem. if your going to rebuild the motor consider a stroker kit like HKS or Tomeii to make the capacity either 2.7 or 2.8L this will place less stress on the engine because you won't need to rev it as hard to make the power that you are after. anyway you look at it you are going to have to spend big dollars getting the whole setup reliable. my advice ... if your going to do it ... go all out and do it right the first time it might cost in the beginning more but it will save you lots of headaches in the long run perhaps you should make a call to a company like CRD or the like and ask them their opinion because they are very well respected over here and will be able to give you the right advice ... they are the experts after all.

ohhh and depending on how much you throw at an RB26 you can make upwards of 1000kw's ... look at some of the drag gtr's around they make close to or above this figure

RB26 for sure shorter inlet track (no over the top plenum) higher capacity 2.6l as opposed to 2.5l (as we know there really is no replacement) better flowing head six throttle bodies = excellent response this list goes on and on don't kid yourself even thinking about a RB25 if money is no object. then again if you got a big budget why don't you look into an LS1 or an LS2 conversion ... I assume you aren't wanting or don't have ATTESSA so you could go down this route. benefits include. 50kg's + lighter than RB26 and its shorter in length than RB26 which equals better weight distribution. virtually indestructible bottom end that will support upwards of 400rwkw's standard when boosted. minor mods to head will see the motor sit on 7000rpm all day everyday. mountains of torque will see you frying tires in every gear. simple, less complicated design would suggest that less chance of mechanical failure. standard ecu is very advanced, easily chipped/ tuned and will support anything you throw at it huge power-band etc... that should rattle some peoples cages now let the flaming begin

i'm with him^^

wow this thread is still going thought his question was answered either way boost cut or r&r ecu will fix the prob or run 10 psi. Running 12psi on standard turbo will likely kill it quickly. <--- although I'll probably get flamed for saying that; some people thinks up to 13.5psi is ok on standard turbo but really any more than 10psi all day everyday will kill turbo quickly especially if you got a heavy right foot. safc = bandaid, illegal, waste of time. chipped ROM = good for minor mods, cheaper or equal to SAFC + tune ($950 inc. chip & tune from Powerhouse in Campbelltown NSW), factory safety measures & cold start/ economy etc retained, legal. full ecu = good long term prospects i.e ease of future mods, solid control, less engine protection, illegal, ideal for race car. QUESTIONS ANSWERED, FULL STOP, THE END, LET IT DIE!!!

^^ pretty much they are more of a band aid than anything else

ohh by the way what you are experiencing is called boost cut or fuel cut ... your factory ecu has a function that robs you of power when it detects an amount of air flow that is outside what it considers normal ... the only to get rid of this annoyance is to (a) lower boost until it goes away or; (b) install a piggyback, replacement ecu or reflash the standard ecu.

To some degree ... but using a piggyback style/ signal bender messes with the factory ecu's knock correction functions ... which is bad news if you get a dodgy batch of fuel and a really hot day those things are a recipe for disaster. Best thing to do in your situation is to leave the thing on 10psi (because much more than this will markedly shorten the standard turbos service life ... 12psi is getting to the pointy end of what is considered safe with a standard turbo) and save for either a full replacement computer or a rechip/ flash of the standard ecu. A reflash or rechiping of the factory ecu is the ideal solution for most lightly modified 33's for a few reasons. 1. It's relatively cheap (around $1000 or so) 2. It's technically a leagal mod (all aftermarket ecu's are considered a defect) 3. It retains the factory ecu engine protection functions, cold start, and partial throttle/ cruise/ economy settings. The only real downside to all of this is that adding extra mods and tuning is generally not as easy as just tweaking the maps, it generally requires a little bit more than this and finding someone around your area to do this can sometimes be hard. The next mods after this you should look at are a new fuel pump, high flow turbo, and a bigger set of injectors and quite possibly a Z32 AFM ... with these mods and 16~18psi you should quite comfortably see 240~250rwkw's and ear to ear smiles when you plant that right foot towards the floor My 2 cents hope this helps.

nws ...

Hi All, Just had a $899- stainless steel turbo back exhaust put on my 95 R33 Gts-t and I wanted to give it a little plug ... The fitment of these things is unbeliveable ,with only 1 tiny modification to a water line needed to be made, from the back of the dump pipe (split front and dump) the thing runs 10mm off of the floor with minimal clearence past the hicas and then finishes with a nicely angled cannon muffler that sits up pretty tight to the standard rear bar My mechanic could bearly believe that this was a $900 system and said most of the big name jap brands don't fit that well! The cat back section of the exhaust is well in excess of 3'' (probally more like 4'') which worried me upon first inspection because I thought this thing was going to be extremely loud with only one tiny resonator and massive the massive cannon style muffler attached to the back end of the cat-back section. However; upon the turn of the key for the first time after fitment my ears were greated with a slight blip and then a wicked exhaust note as the RB came back to sit on idle ... mmmm that sweet, juciy RB hum Cruising at around 2.5 --> 3k the difference is bearly noticable apart from a slight burble and deeper hum backing off the throttle when coasting up to traffic lights. Freeway driving is no chore either with no droning under partial throttle at 3k (110km/h) in 5th and only slight burble/drone rolling down the hills off throttle. Power is greatly improved (although I won't be able to tell you to what extent because I had a HDi FMIC and A'Pexi Power intake, heat sheild and CAI all done at the same time) through the midrange; the RB25 feels like a completely differen't beast. The only complaint I have about the system is that boost has skyrocketed to a very unsafe 14-15psi (standard turbo) at 4500 revs which of course means that the factory computers boost cut is comming into play under heavy right foot conditions. The next round of modification will include o2 sensors, coils, plugs, an R32 wastegate actuator, bosch 040/4 and a reflash of the factory ECU ... Hoping for around 190-200rwkw @ 10-12psi on standard turbo. Fingers Crossed. End Rant Chris p.s. will post pics up soon

ty

hey i am really bad at searching for things on this forum ... I cant find a link (that works ... the one in the R33 general maintainance page doesn't work) to a diy spark plug clean/change for R33 Gts-t. If someone could post one it would be much appriciated

I'm about to fit up my new turbo back zorst (split front/dump pipe), fmic, apexi pod + heat sheild & CAI ... What do you think boost will be with these modz? I spose i wont know until I hook all this up what the boost is going to be but anything above standard without a retune of the ecu is going to cause my ecu to run rich isn't it? Do you think reseting the factory ecu for now will suffice until I save enough to chip and tune the factory ecu? or should I crank out the credit card? Hey MANWHORE how much you want for that actuator? PM me

thanxs R34GTFOUR sounds good MANWHORE ... PM me the details

how many psi (bar) is the standard r33 S1 turbo wastegate actuator set at ... all I want is a cheap, reliable 10psi (street use only car) until i can afford a decent EBC + ecu/tune or does anyone have any suggestions

I would assume it would be slightly me responsive being ball bearing as opposed to journal (kkr items are journal bearing type are they not?) ... also aren't the kkr series only oil cooled whereas the HKS item is water and oil cooled?? if I could have my pick I would have anything HKS put on my car over anything else on the market

nws