Hell Fire

Sending moneys now

I was looking for one that was non-operational No point hacking up a working one that someone else can make good use of I'll keep it in mind

Hey all, I'm chasing after a dead (non-operational) stock R33 ECU that has the case and connector still in decent condition for a project located in Brisbane. Pickup prefered. Looking to put another ECU in the case. Thanks

Closer to the throttle body you've got the air flowing one direction only, if you put it at the other end you end up with air moving back and forward through the IC, possibly having your colder air in the system reabsorb some of the heat as the pressure drops and becomes less dense. Suppose with a larger IC it will hold a pretty fair capacity, but keep in mind at 3000 RPM your engine is sucking in over 0.075m3 a sec (150 CFMish), so whatever air sits in the IC will be gone pretty quickly once you get back on throttle. May not matter so much until you're chasing big power/response but if you're going to do it once, closer to the throttle body is likely to do better.

+1 for teach the idiots to drive

Yup, that's right. Stock controller is like a bleed valve that's open after 4500 or whatever RPM it is.

It'll be AFM hitting peak voltage. AFM sees so much air that the ECU thinks it's failing or something is broken, so it goes into failsafe until the voltages drop back down. Not much you can do cept get a ECU (and replacement AFM), either piggyback or full replacement. Not recommended to go with a "fuel cut defender" type device since all they do is fake the AFM signal once it goes "out of spec" of what the ECU expects, but AFM signal is used to plot load on your fuel map, so the ECU will start leaning out the engine and cause bad things to happen You can try and drop the boost back down on the controller, its probably going a bit over where you expect it to sit, just bring it back down a PSI at a time till it stops doing it. Also remember air temp affects AFM readings and air density as well, so cold nights naturally raise your airflow in.

Oh snap, Dad decided to pay for my oil cooler for a birthday pressy (very late pressy ) So I'm in!

I'd jump on it, but after this Nissan trackday at QR, I'm thinking I'll be a little broke

What the f**k is with Pulsar drivers and Skylines? My 33 was rearended by a Pulsar back in November last year. Too busy gawking at the real Nissan they should have bought or what?

スカイライン is Skyline in Japanese (according to both my installed dictionary and Google Translate) Japan has been using Latin/Roman characters mixed into their language for a while now, not uncommon to see english mixed in with various Japanese stuff.

To be honest, while it's nice and all to save a life (yay!) holding up everyone else trying to get across the river for that length of time adds up. Most of us get about 700,000 hours (about 80 years) on average to live, when you hold up a city with a few million people in it by blocking traffic (not to mention the other effects of causing others waiting on people stuck in traffic (shipping companies, etc), it only takes a little bit to add up quick. If it takes 500000 people 30 minutes extra to get where they're going or do what their doing because of it, quick maths will give you that you've just wasted 250000 hours of those people, or 28 years worth of the rest of the population collectively. Need to work on a bit of a change on how these cases are handled. Brisbane isn't a small town any more, needs to grow up.

Aaaaa, I'll take the front inner wheel guards too Maybe the side skirts too, completing a car is a bitch . PM me with times you're available for pickup and I'll borrow the discovery What's the difference structurally between the turbo and non-turbo wheels? Different inside clearance for brakes?

Well, I'll take it too Always handy having spares around (might see if I can modify it or something)

Ahh hah! Gear shift knob! Sold! I've been needing one ever since I got my car and the stupid SAAS one is always coming loose, and gets too hot in sun. The replacement one (34 or something) I got doesn't fit right (thread doesn't actually reach). Hopefully I get a call about my car being fixed soon, otherwise I'll borrow something to pick it up.

Awesome build. Look forward to any updates

No timing gear is setup at Lakeside yet, so it was down to personal timers and the like, though I did overhear a couple of times that the yellow 33 got 1:01 1:02 or so, bloody quick car/driver that.

Not to mention that any accident that usually ends up being driver inattentiveness tends to get marked as excessive speed because assholes don't own up to the fact that they weren't paying attention. This also includes not driving to the road and traffic conditions.

6x9s won't get the power at real low frequencies a sub will hit but often because they're multi-voice they make a good midrange speaker. First thing I think of people dodging 6x9s and going straight for 6"s and a sub is the asshole retarded salespeople in your common car audio stores. They get paid by commission you tools, of course they want to have you go the 6" + sub + amp route. Like I said, 6x9s, not a replacement for a sub, but in my case better then what came with the car (nothing). Currently have two voice alpine 6" in my doors and a couple of pioneer 3 voice 6x9s on the shelf. A sub is on my list to do as there is a lack of power in the real low end, and probably a couple of tweeters for the real high end, but the 6x9s put out enough to make the rear window shake, and have a very nice spread of frequency response. Fiddle with the headunit a bit and try and tune it to be even. Unless your music is actually heavy on the bass, you shouldn't tune it so it sounds like it. I know it tends to lean more towards the sound engineer idea but if you have a friend that has some studio monitors, go play a music track on them, listen for the way the sound responds in both low and high frequencies, then play the same music in your car and try and get it to sound similar to that to start with. After you've got this base point, make small tweaks to it as your personal preference, but try not to tune too far away from the base point. Anyway, hope this helps. (Btw, 6x9s will fit in a R33 with MDF spacer quite easily, and if angled right, you can secure them using some of the stock holes. Your spacer only needs to be high enough to lift up the majority of the cone, the driver should still fit through the original hole.)

I've seen people make LED fittings up to change the light colour, however it's fairly fiddly to do as there isn't much room for a diffuser. The EL panel is a solid panel covering the entire logo, when they work right there isn't any uneven parts to the light from them, however sections wear out over time. With LEDs, you'll have "hotspots" of light right where the LED is, and unless you can get the light to diffuse right, you'll get dark spots as well. All this said, you can change the colour, it just takes a bit to get it to look even.

EL lighting typically has an inverter somewhere around (probably in the panel itself) and it'll probably have reverse current protection as well. Stock wise, they're wired to the parkers (mine just has the usual spliced connection into the rear park lights).

21 and stock R33 GTST, no previous accident history, garaged in a "low threat" neighbourhood was $1600 through Justcar for me They're underwritten by AAMI and are apparently a total bitch to get them to pay out on anything, but they're also about the only group that insure under 25s.

I got a few from an apartment on corner 8. Was an awesome day

Or you can keep screwing around like I was

I live just around the corner, great location if they fix the bridge up and the stupidity is kept to a minimum. But it's a hard thing to manage. Will keep an eye on this, need more civilized northside car stuff