Hell Fire

My car didn't have the footrest cover, you have to take it off first before you can get to one of the bolts on the inside of the footrest (this is the one I grounded to)

Do you still have these? I wouldn't mind them. Can organize a pickup one evening. Thanks

^^ As Chris and Para said, price of the alarm usually determines features, but a great alarm installed badly is still a bad security system.

I used the back bolt under the carpet for the footrest next to the clutch. "Works fine for me "

Yes Noel, share your marvelous power figure so all these guys can jizz all over it

It's still on the run-in tune, should be close to going for the full tune soon.

Yeah, it doesn't make much of a difference if you're not tuned for it. I was getting a wonky idle out of it when cold, used to run right down on the 600RPM stall line, drop down below it and cause the anti-stall to kick in. Back to 95 till I get an ECU

f**king internet males, even worse that they're Australian. Shut the f**k up you stupid bogans and go back to comparing dick sizes.

The stock boost gauge is rated in torr (or millimeters of mercury (100xmmHG)), 1 bar is roughly 700-760 mmHG, which is about 14 PSI. Halfway up the positive side of the gauge is about 7 PSI. With the stock solenoid, it should read just under the bar between when the turbo spools up and 4500RPM, then just either dead on or just over the line the rest of the way. I've found my gauge to be rather accurate once settled, but it isn't lightning fast to respond to spikes, I've been pretty good at telling when it spikes based on the speed of the movement to the next position. My car is a pretty stock S2 R33 and I have been messing about with it for a while now. Unless your turbo is in a really shit condition or some idiot has installed a fuel cut defender I wouldn't worry about playing around with it too much. You'll get a nasty jerk if it spikes into ~12 PSI as you'll hit a safety cut, just ease off the throttle and adjust the controller down. When testing your pressure, always check that you arn't hitting the safety cut in 4th or 5th gear as well. While I was playing about with it I had a setting where it would be perfect in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, but under more open throttles in 4th and 5th it would edge on cutting out. If your gauge is accurate, you want about 10 PSI which is about halfway again between the +7 mark and half positive.

Be warned, if you're getting a plasma, they do wear out and fade. There was a rather big price drop about 2-3 years after plasma TVs started hitting the market because heaps of people noticed that their plasma TV looked crap, retail outlets needed to offload them quicker, particularly their display stock. That said, plasma do have better contrast then LCD and tend to respond quicker in quick action then LCD (only on larger screens though, expensive smaller LCDs don't have the same problem as the larger ones which sacrifice response for size). Eug, if you're finding your computer LCD to be a little harsh on the eyes, try turning the brightness down. Adjust the contrast to suit the lower brightness of course.

Quick and dirty way (dirty because relays are so large) is to wire up the ign to the relay input and have the flasher circuit on hooked up to the NC side with the +12v constant to the COM. IGN turns coil on, switches COM to NO, turns flasher off. IGN turns off, switches COM back to NC, turning flasher on. Chuck a fuse or two in between the relay and IGN as well as relay and +12v constant so if anything shorts out while you're messing with it you don't fry something important.

Toe is how far the wheel is tilted on the front, toe in on both sides of the car causes the wheels to push towards center, this gives a straighter line as the car moves around less. toe out is the opposite, it makes the wheels pull off center but also tends to make it easier to turn on the fronts as the inner wheel will pull more then the outer and can help reduce understeer if done right.

Where on cootha are we meeting up? There's a few carparks around the place, don't want to end up driving around there over and over again looking

Oh damnit, 9am?! so early. oh well, still in

damnit, I need something to do... ed: night

sup whores

Will be looking out for the next one. Was great to get to know the car, coming from a Diesel Discovery to R33 is a bit of a step and apart from a couple of overpower spins I think I'm getting the hang of the car. Stock isn't bad, don't think I'll change anything for a while yet (not that I can afford it ). Might have to shop around for some new tyres and rims to keep spare, even with the water I was still getting a bit of burnt tyre smell (oh, and creek water EVERYWHERE, I found the stuff just about every place around the engine bay and panels, smelt for the next couple of days until I could pressure blast the engine bay ) And yes, I was deliberately sliding it around during the time trials, except for the first time up around the top (so greasy) but kept going pretty hard . Had a great time and the perfect place to learn the limits of the car (safe, no gutters, etc). Thanks to everyone that put the event together.

Hi whores

lol explosions

First post for Monday, night whoretown.

On a R33, where is the spare grommet supposed to be? Just above the clutch wire passthrough? Mine still has a punch plate blocking it with no grommet

MSN auth incoming

lol yeah, tried it, uber boost man, but it made this clank and now it won't start right (lol, kidding, also, it has the heatshields still on so you can't see shit of the turbo ) Was trying to find where the coilpack loom ran but I've got it, now I just need to find out which pin on the CAS is it's 12v.

Someone come over and point out basic shit on my cars engine plz

Morning whoretown