ARGH34

URGENT SALE. 1998 R34 GT-T, very good condition, 5 speed manual, black, turbo, 2 door coupe, Perth Western Australia. Bilstein suspension, Apexi RSM, Apexi boost gauge, Apexi pen-sized turbo timer, Apexi pod airfilter, factory NISMO full bodykit, 3" catback 5Zigen exhaust, GFB BOV, NISMO strut tower and underbody sway bars, Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres 70% tread, Laserline microwave sensor alarm, adjustable xenon headlights, regularly serviced and garaged. Bought from a private sale 2 years ago, 2nd owner in Australia. Price to sell fast - $28,900 For pics, see my ad on carsales.com.au: http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...rch_distance=25 Contact number: 040 333 22 69 I'm expecting to sell this very quickly as I have other financial committments. Thanks Trevor

Hey back off erik. If he was going as fast as what people are saying he was going, he is a fool. It is tragic and very sad, and I sympathise for all involved, but it really shouldn't have happened. I think this can "happen to all of us" only if we regularly like to speed down public roads with passengers in our cars. As for getting the facts right, I didn't want to get into the details, but that was the gist of what happened.

Apparently the two other draggers came back for a quick look at the crash then drove off without helping. You know what's gonna happen now, cops are gonna heap shit on any turbocharged car they see.

Anybody see that on the news? The word is a champagne IS200 owned by a guy named Ronald, turbo'ed up and fully bombed out was dragging dudes down Leach Hwy. He lost it round a bend, snapped a lamp post in half, then hit a tree and snapped that in half at the base too. Then the car catches fire, blows up and burns the two nice 20 year old girls in his back seat to death. And he survives. Makes me sick how stupid some people can be. Hopefully he's gonna have plenty of time to think about how he's gonna live with himself when he's in jail. Apparently this guy was at the drags quite a bit. Anybody seen/know him?

Anyone know who the grey r33 GTS-t with plates "STR33T" is?

I got a brass button clutch in my car (from the previous owner) installed by XSpeed and I was told it cost about $900. Not sure what brand it is, but I don't really think its the best clutch out there. My brass button (like all other brass buttons I think?) has no 'ride' whatsoever i.e. you can't ride the clutch, say, if you want to balance the car on an upward sloping hill. You can do it for about 2 seconds before you hear this shrill grating metal-on-metal screech (that sounds like running your nails down a chalkboard). I guess thats the 'brass' in my clutch. The clutch is either on or off, so it sucks when you're in traffic, especially if the road is going uphill. Plus riding the clutch gently when in reverse is not possible without the screech. But if I release my clutch fully in reverse the car hoons along backwards - not the best thing in carparks

Milo- section 38 of the Road Traffic (Vehicle Standards) Rules 2002 says: "Glazing in a window other than the windscreen may be coated to achieve a luminous transmittance of not less than 35%." So it seems the legislation doesn't only differentiates between windscreen glass vs non windscreen glass, and not front and quarter windows. So in short, no, all glass on your car has to be rated 35% or above. Was researching it at work just by chance If you want to look at the law on tinting, its at http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/wa/cons...002308/s38.html

You have PM Steve.

I've got a bleed valve from previous owner (uninstalled), so the only unknown cost right now is for the boost cut defender(s), depending on how many I need.. I probably will go the ECU a bit later along the line together with the FMIC, but for now I just want a cheap and effective power increase in the form of boost + front/dump pipes. Sound like a good idea?

Yep points noted. Thanks for the tips. He said he'll take it for a whirl on the dyno when he boosts it up. I guess if nominal power gains are made with 12psi over 10psi, I'll just set it to 10. I suppose next time I wanna boost it I'll need an FMIC and AFC to make it worthwhile? I was also thinking of getting a full exhaust done at the same time. What kind of a down pipe / front pipe should I be looking for? Branded or get one fabricated? How much are we looking at? I noticed rob77 said $300-$350 for the pipes in the 'best mods for $5000' thread. This what I should be expecting? Oh and any comments on Formaz?

Boost plans to be increased with a Turbosmart bleed valve + Turbosmart boost cut defender. Yep, the previous owner thankfully installed an Apexi EL boost gauge (together with with a ricey externally venting BOV, which I refuse to spend money replacing).

I'm about to book my car in at Formaz to up the boost a bit on my R34 (which is currently running the stock 0.55 bar). I've dealt with Kevin from Formaz for a minor service before and he seems alright. Just a question: what's most boost I can safely and reliably run on a stock GT-t turbo/stock intercooler. Only mods so far engine-wise are cat-back exhaust and Apexi pod filter. The numbers I've gathered from the forum are 10-12psi (0.7-0.8bar) without running the chance of blowing the turbo. Kev said he has seen many Skylines running 1bar safely on a stock turbo/IC without any problems. Does this sound right? Keeping in mind I don't plan to do any trackwork or drag runs and that summer is coming up. Also he plans to use a simple bleed valve + boost cut defender to boost it up. I've read here that they don't hold boost properly and cause spiking. I realise an EBC of some sort is the best option, but will this do? Must I have the boost-cut defender as well? Any comments? Also, any general comments and experiences good (please share) or bad (PM me) with Formaz would be appreciated. Cheers.

I had a similar problem in my Skyline - a hot-cold gear crunching problem, except that my clutch dropped right to the floor (no friction point) when it was cold and was close to impossible to get into gear. The problem is because the existing gearbox oil was far too viscous (i.e. thick) for my brass button clutch, and basically when it was cold it got thicker and thicker and theres no room inside the gearbox for the clutch and the gears to engage. Mechanic just switched gearbox oil to an automatic gearbox oil, because they're much less viscous, so that when they're cold there's room for everyone in the gearbox, hence no crunching.

Nismo did you get my email with the pic of my dash? What do you think?

Sent the pic. What boost are you running? You think with my mods I'll be able to pull a similar number when I end up kicking up the boost to about 0.75, 0.8 bar?

Its running all good now except tops out at 0.4 bar which is too low. Got my steering fixed sorta... clever guys fitted R33 bushes which are rotatable and they adjusted the caster of my front wheels to compensate for the left radius rod being pushed forward due to car crash by previous owner.. (dunno if that all made sense). Still kinda steers to the left a bit, but hard to tell though because most open roads are crowned and slope to the left anyway.. And the alignment guy says that coz I have rock hard bilstein coil overs, even the slightest slope in the road will cause the car to steer in that direction.. I have no idea hey. But back to the topic, the car boost fine and runs smooth all the way to 7000 cut out.. I do have a quick question though. I have an Apexi RSM with G-sensor, and its has the power measurement function. The best power I've been able to get on 0.4bar is 155kw at around 6600rpm usually (usually tops out around 147kw during the day, but its been bloody cold lately and been able to get some nice numbers at night). Is this power measurement at the wheels or at the engine? I'm thinking it has to be at the wheels, becuase 155kw at the engine is pretty pathetic right? Hows this power output rate in terms of a stock RB25DET Neo with exhaust and filter running 0.4bar? Haven't tried a 0-400 run on the RSM yet, will do when I find a nice straight (and non-slopey) piece of tarmac. Will email you the pic real soon eh NismoR34

Crap. My pic was too big to post even on lowest res. Need to download a proggie to reduce the size... Yeah my skyline is R34, 98 and a manual.

Heres the piccy.

Oh wait, my bad It does have the round gauges, but not the separate round inserts where your "km/h" and "x1000rpm" are written. and my fuel and temp gauges are slightly different too. Oh the gauges on my dash are in reverse order to yours. Mine are temp, tacho, speedo and fuel from left to right. I'll be taking the pic tonight or tomorrow. Do you think you can take a pic with ignitiion 'half-on' so that all your lights turn on too? That way I can compare the lights as well.

It goes to 180. On the tacho, theres minimal markings for 0-1000rpm, a couple of markings 1000-2000rpm, then the rest goes up to 8000, when the writing becomes red. It'll be easier just to post the pic My dash is different to yours - I don't have the separate round gauges for my speedo, tacho, fuel and temp. Its just all one piece.

I'll take a piccy of mine on the weekend and post it. Then you tell me what kind of a dash I have :

um, just checked my dash and the redline definately starts at 8000rpm. Is this not normal?

Oh as for the redline, my mechanic said that theres not much point going over 7000 anyway because the car drops right off its power/torque band at around 6600, so I really should be changing gears about then anyhoo. I'll have to go home and double check my dashboard redline.

Yep. Just spoke to my mechanic, he says boost is pretty low at the moment (0.4 bar or around 6 pound) and that he regularly sets up customer cars up to 1 bar boost on stock turbo/internals safely (although he'll have to dyno it to test and make sure nothings going to blow up). I plan to get some EBC or dual stage boost controller. Mechanic said the cheapest way is to go the bleed valve/boost cut defender option and stick it up to 1 bar or thereabouts. For the moment, the boost is going to have to wait - my alignment is out, and the wheel alignments were out by varying degrees on the left and right sides of my car - suggesting an accident and the need to use a chassis alignment rig (*sighs at buying cheap accident repaired japanese import*) to stop the car pulling to the left on a flat road

Zahos: nah, the guy took it out. I figure if I want to increase my boost I might do it later with an EBC of some sort, or at least some sort of in-car adjustable valve. NismoR34: I got the reading from an Apexi a-pillar boost gauge. It sits on 0.4 all the way to 7000rpm. My dash is the stock Nissan dash and I'm quite sure the redline on the tacho starts at 8000rpm - so does this mean that the redline on the dash isn't really the redline set in the ECU? Does your dash have redline markings from 8000rpm? All this could be purely academic if the engine shouldn't really be revving past 7000 anyway, regardless of where the markings on the dash are - I realise that. But I'm just curious why it cuts out at 7000 when the redline on the dash is at 8000. And one last thing, 0.7 bar the figure I'm getting to be the safe boost level for stock internals/turbo on an R34 for street use - can you guys confirm this? And yes Nismo/Zahos you guys have been a big help and its much appreciated