ARGH34

All done. Just took out the bleed valve and replaced the vacuum hosing for about $20. The down side is now the car doesnt feel half as fast as it did before I took the valve out and the boost was going through the roof but I suppose at least my turbo isn't going to blow... The car is boosting happily away at 0.4 bar now all the way to 7000rpm(?) limiter - which brings me to my next question: my redline is at 8000rpm so why is my limiter kicking in at 7000? it just bounces on 7000 and doesnt want to go any higher. The boost cut is gone however. is it possible that the redline was lowered with the powerfc previously installed? is this hard to reprogram if so? If not, does this problem sound like anything else?

Yeah there are different sizes, coz the first Nissan dealer gave me a key but the keysmith couldn't do it because it was too small. That key was $10. Went to a different dealer who gave me one that suited the R34 which was $20. Bit of a rip, but eh, what's $20 compared to changing your ignition barrel and door locks if you lose your only key Yeah Nismo you can have the key since you're both in Melbourne, I'm in Perth..

Got a piccy of it?

I think I can live without a Nismo key for $110 for the moment eh? heh.

All done No computer chip in the key.. I didn't want an ugly metal head key, so I got a factory nissan one with the little rubber bit on the head. Cost me $20 plus a couple of dollars for the cutting from the keysmith. Thanks for the help fellas.

yeah.. my regular mechanic should know how to do it right? Just a simple bit of plumbing and changing the hoses? I always had a feeling the "specialist" mod shops in Perth are out to rip you.

Cheers. Will attempt to cut a key today

Yeah I'm packing myself. I only got 1 key and I need a spare. A friend got his Camry keys stolen and had to get the replacement electronic chip key from the factory. Cost = $895.00 , had to claim on insurance. Anybody know?

Just a quick question. Has anybody ever tried to cut a spare key for an R34 GT-T? Is anybody aware whether Skyline keys have a built in electronic chip that needs to be replaced from Nissan? Or can you just get your local keysmith to chop you a copy? My keysmith said that I should check because even your average Camry has built-in chips that need to be replicated from the factory, and cutting a key will open your door but won't start the car. Nissan dealer hasn't been all too helpful either. Wanted to check with someone before I spend a huge $8 cutting a key that might not start my car.. By the way my GT-T is a '98 model. Thanks

Yeah, I have a feeling the bleed valve is dodgy since it was a home chop job by the previous owner. Its been taken in and out before because the car had to pass the pits. Spoke to a guy at a workshop that I've booked in next week, he says its probably a dodgy piece of vacuum hose and they can replumb it for me, or just take the whole thing out and put it back to factory boost (which isn't a bad idea considering stock internals) so that way I'll at least be able drive past 5000rpm safely. Pretty simple job, but I guess I'll leave it to a pro to fix as I've been quoted about $60 for an hour's work on it plus the cost of a new bit of vacuum hose (although I reckon your average mechanic will probably fix it in 10 minutes). Will let y'all know how it goes when the car goes into the shop. Thanks for all the help people

Nah turning bleed valve either way hasn't worked at all. Think its time to take it to a shop...

Oh by the way you may have noticed I've run the same thread on skylinesdownunder, and the people here have so far been a lot more helpful than the other board... wonder why eh?

I bought the car recently, and didn't notice the jerking but was told any jerkiness would be due to the TCS kicking in (which I've found to be false last night in the wet, because the slip light flicks on). While I'm by no means a pro on this, I had a look at the plumbing of the valve last night, and the arrow on the valve is pointing towards the round silver wastegate actuator, so it looks like its plumbed the right way. I'll post a photo on the weekend if that helps. I'm in Perth btw. I'll try twist the knob the other way a few rotations to see what difference that makes. Been a bit hard to test lately coz its been raining over here and whenever I try to boost I'm losing traction bigtime. Damn I wish I had ATESSA. Zahos: Yeah I got a few tuning shops in mind I might pop into over the weekend or next week when I have the time. For the moment I'm keeping it under 4000rpm coz I don't wanna fry anything... and I'll post a photo if that'll help.

I looked up the turbosmart website and found instructions on my valve: http://www.turbosmart.com.au/pdf/FG-GBCV-001.PDF I checked it with a screwdriver and it was wound clockwise all the way already (i.e. it was screwed down as far as possible). Turning it anti-clockwise makes the screw come out looser and looser. I didn't try loosening it coz I'm worried that the boost will run even higher. Is it possible that the computer settings have been changed to run higher boost? I'll try loosening the valve tonight and taking it for a drive, but I'm pretty sure that I been screwing the valve down the right way... :

Hm. My bleed valve was wound all the way down already.. went for a drive last night and under heavy boost the same thing happened. Running at over 1 bar, up to about 1.2. Is there another way to affect boost besides the bleed valve? I don't have any electronic boost controller. If this keeps up I'll have to see a mechanic I think..

Cheers for that. I'll try it tonight and let you know how it goes

I'll go home and do that tonight. But I'm very green to all of this. Specifically how do I go abouts changing the boost? Do I just turn the little knob down all the way? Do I have to pull the valve out from its place, or can I just leave it in and turn it? After that, do I take the car for a run and keep adjusting so that when I'm on full throttle the boost maxes out at 0.7?

Thats the thing I'm not too sure what the previous owner set the boost at. I think it would be approx. 1 bar, and from what I've been told this isn't healthy at all for the stock turbo/internals. When the cuts happen, my aftermarket boost gauge reads about 1.2-1.4 bar.. which is far to high (also from what i've been told). In which case I think I'm gonna have to wind down the boost. Any tips on how to lower the boost on a turbosmart bleed valve, and how to check it myself?

I have an R34 GT-t and experience a very strange (and dangerous) power cut whenever I floor the throttle or run up high RPMs. Usually happens around 6000rpm in 1st, 5000 in 2nd, 4500 in 3rd, 4000 in 4th and 3500 in 5th. What happens is when the car is spooling up and when I accelerate, the car suddenly loses all power and jerks forward harshly and then hits boost again, then jerks, then accelerates and so on... so you end up jerking your head forward and back pretty violently.. its pretty dangerous because you sort of lose control of the speed of the car and the whole balance is upset. Once when it happened, I kept on trying to accelerate and the orange oil lamp on the far left of my dash flicked on for about 3 seconds... I got an airfilter, exhaust, external venting BOV, bleed valve, RSM.. I have a feeling the car's boost is too high and perhaps there is an auto cut-out protection of some sort if you boost spools up too high? I notice on my boost gauge it happens when the boost is around 1.2-1.5 x100 kPa.. I don't have an intercooler and I'm not sure what boost the car is running at the moment (perhaps 1 bar)? also the car previously had an FMIC and Power FC installed, so I'm thinking perhaps the engine management has been changed and they didn't revert it back when they pulled it out. Any comments, advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.