wlspn

Hope its not CAS. Never had the issue before the haltech went in & was tuned so does that rule that out? Leaking injector(s) is something I will try to look into, & is quite possible as injectors were recently highflowed. Will also check 0 rpm tables on haltech & cranking rpm too.. Should mention it doesn't happen every time.. Whatever it is I'm guessing it wont cause any major probs?

Have an rb25 in my r32 & recently installed a Haltech ECU & got a tune. The day after my tune I discovered a hose had come off an intercooler pipe (probably during tune) so I have re-attached that & am fixing up a few little things then I will go for another tune. Anyway for the last few days when I go to start my car (just to move it around, etc.) as soon as I turn the key to ignition there is a bang from the exhaust, almost like a little backfire... But the engine isn't actually running... Have never really had or heard about this before & I'm getting really curious as to what it could be If anyone has experienced this or has any ideas please let me know...

So you're saying that if cluster doesn.t work, neither will digital speedo? Was pretty sure at least one of the times I stripped the gear off the speedo cable (cluster end) the dash speedo didn't work but the digital speedo did... Could be wrong but. If you're right I definitely am.

As above, my heater/fan only blows air onto windscreen no matter what I do. Climate-control display reads as normal but if I change it to feet or dash, it still blows on windscreen... Just wondering if anyone else has experienced or better yet, fixed this problem? When I get a chance will check CC diagnostics & maybe try & manually select another vent but thought until then I would ask on here... Cheers, Brett

As above, where do Skylines get the speed signal for the ECU from? Cant be gearbox (not on 32s anyway) as 32s have a speedo cable & yet the ECU still gets a signal... I have a digital speed readout on my turbo timer (which is mounted just above cluster) & it's not working. Recently installed an RB25DET & had the original ECU from that installed, didn't work. Now have a Haltech, doesn't work. Car has been off the road that long I can't remember if it stopped working while the RB20 was in or just since I've swapped engine & box. 99% sure it had stopped working even with the 20. Problem is I fitted the R33 box with the engine & haven't sorted the cable yet so have no speedo at all. Would be nice to have some idea how fast I'm going! Also caused a few problems with ECU where things want to be speed activated, such as VCT, etc (can get around it but still...) Would be really handy if someone could help me out so I can fix everything. Cheers, Brett

Search the NA forum for what mods to look at doing (intake, extractors, exhaust, etc) & what sort of power figures these mods will give but if staying non-turbo expect to spend a lot of money for very little gain... For the price of a set of extractors & an exhaust you could probably buy & install all the bits to bolt a standard RB25 turbo setup (manifold, turbo, lines, dump, cooler, etc) to your engine & make a lot more power. One thing you will have if you stick with the NA setup is nice sharp throttle response but that probably wont keep you entertained for long.... On another note, I may be way off here, but I'm sort of assuming you could be a P-plater, hence the non-turbo? If so, depending on what state you're in you could find that ANY performance modifications are forbidden, making your modified non-turbo just as illegal for you as a turbo model with twice the power. As long as you realise you will never have the same potential as a turbo engine & you are happy with that, go for it. Would love to build a fully worked, hi-comp NA one day, for mentioned response, etc. But just too addicted to boost!

R31 Nismoid, sorry but how is that at all relevant? First of all I assume you mean intake pipe between AFM & turbo, not cooler pipe? & you are talking about an air leak, where this guy is talking about running his AFM directly in front of the turbo, presumably sealed by a silicon, etc join.. e.g pod onto AFM onto turbo using only joins, no pipes. Correct me if I'm missing something Kaido RR, I have heard it CAN cause problems but if its easy enough try it for yourself. If the car idles fine I would drive it there but stay off boost & keep the revs low just in case. Worst case it should run rich so shouldn't damage anything...

Ok, thanks for a straight-forward answer. I will fix up a few small problems, maybe replace the cat with a mates, fix the leak & take it to a reputable shop. In Victoria, near Dandenong so will most likely try to get in with Trent from Status (now Chequered) Tuning

OK, cat is something I will definitely be looking into... Thanks

It actually peaks straight to about 16 psi pretty quickly then drops down to around 12-13 psi & holds at that...

I understand this mate & am not just looking for the dyno to read 300kw or something, but as I say, even driving on the road, it doesn't feel that much quicker than my RB20 did with same turbo, exhaust, intercooler, pod filter & 13psi. I didn't do a baseline run because the engine was swapped. While it was out a few mods were put onto it to make things easier later on. Then the stock ECU couldn't handle all the mods so I got the Haltech, bigger injectors & here we are... I do have an understanding of engines (I am a qualified motor-mechanic although I mainly work on automatic-transmissions & have little to nothing to do with tuning...) Yes, this will be my first thing to look at. I am just wondering if someone who knows about ECU's & tuning can tell by looking at the fuel & ignition maps whether this is a good or bad tune. Obviously I don't want to fix the leak & go get it re-tuned from the same guy if someone who knows can tell me he hasn't tuned it right...

Knock sensors seem to be ok... Never threw up a code on standard ECU & engine & sensors have low km's on them... Not sure how else I would know? From what I know but, Neo engines came out with more power? Due to camshaft, ECU specs, etc? So would make more power with less mods than an R33 RB25... However I think you're correct. From reading dyno results, some people with just exhaust, cooler, upped boost, etc make more power than me! Unfortunately dont have a graph with AFR's, etc. I think it was around 11.5:1 at full throttle nearing redline but thats about it... Turbo shouldn't be too big. It is suggested by GCG for the RB25 & before this I had it on my RB20... Even on the 20, with just turbo, intake, cooler, exhaust & upped boost it didn't feel much slower than this. Definitely better with the tune, but with all other mods, bigger engine, etc I expected a huge hike in power... Yes, when I looked this morning a 5/8' (16mm) hose which runs from the intercooler pipe had come off... Not quite sure when it happened but I am assuming during tune So with a MAP sensor AFR wont be affected? Something I may look into. Cheers mate!

As mentioned here is the dyno printout & some pictures of the base fuel & base ignition maps for people who know how to read them. Sorry for the poor quality pictures. Had to take pictures of my computer screen with my phone... If any different views of the map (or text pages, etc) will help anyone determine whether this is a bad tune, let me know & I'll pop them up. Base fuel map: Base ignition map:

No, not really... He gave me an estimated price & time-frame & said it may be more if it took longer. He actually spent more time on it than quoted & charged me less as I think he knew I was unhappy with the boost level & power we reached. As I say, the tuner seems quite happy with that power level for the amount of boost & seems to think more boost will fix the problem, giving me around 220kw's. However I still think at this boost it should be making more power than 180kw's & with more boost should be well above 220... Maybe I'm wrong & on another dyno at the moment it would pull 210 or something. Was a dyno dynamics but I don't think it was in shoot-out mode... As I said will try & get dyno results & pics of fuel & ignition maps up soon...

Yes, unfortunately... OK, good to know. I also thought that if the hose was off during tuning & I now re-connect it it may alter AFRs. Also boost-solenoid is controlled by ECU so if its at about 80% (which I think it is) making 13psi & I fix a huge boost leak, starting to think boost may jump up quite drastically... What would be the advantage of an adjustable cam-gear? More power at low revs or? Not really after a "happy" dyno, although I may have made it sound that way. Have heard that dyno results can vary up to 30-40kw but even so if people are making 250kw+ with a smaller turbo & otherwise same mods as me shouldn't I be making at least 210kw? Sort of what I'm starting to think unfortunately. OK, the cat is only a few years old & is a metallic-substrate high-flow item. However, before the tune the car was running (although not driven) STUPIDLY rich (7ms pulse at idle) & I know this isn't good for cats. Would this affect metal cats as much as ceramic ones? Can you explain why you think this? You may be correct, but I assumed if he tuned it with hose off & I put it back on the manifold would have more or less pressure, resulting in a different AFR, as well as the boost problem mentioned above...

Hi guys, Went for my first dyno tune yesterday & have to say I came home rather disappointed... After spending many months & more money than I care to think about doing up the car, power figures came in WELL below what I was expecting... To give you a basic run-down, car is an R32 GTST with RB25DET & custom-loom, with following engine mods: * K&N pod filter, boxed with CAI & solid 3" intake pipe to turbo * GCG custom 500hp high-flow turbo (non-standard housings) (see below) * Heat-wrapped eBay stainless-steel turbo-manifold (I know, I know, only for now...) * Heat-wrapped 2.75" dump, 3" exhaust from front-pipe back, including 3" high-flow cat * OE GTR FMIC with custom 3" piping * 80mm throttle-body * GReddy style plenum * 800cc high-flowed OE injector * Walbro 450 or 500hp fuel-pump (once again, I know... Don't want to start a ''Walbro is crap thread...) * Haltech Platinum Pro plug-in ECU using MAP sensor * OE RB25 boost solenoid controlled by ECU (see below) Also has air/oil seperator, coolant header tank, remote oil-filter, etc but nothing else that should affect power... There could be some stuff that I've forgotten but if so will add in later. Engine had compression test, leak-down, etc performed not long ago with good results. Anyway, long story short, the car only made 178.7rwkw on 13 psi! I see RB25s with standard turbo, injectors, ECU, AFM, etc that make that sort of power or more! The turbo I am using is a GCG high-flow, but not the normal one that uses the standard housings. Is just slightly bigger than that... When I questioned GCG about it, they told me it is a mixture of HKS & Garrett GT-series parts. Am going to hit them up for more specific info during the week... Anyway, definitely a steel-wheeled, ball-bearing turbo. Seeming most RB25s using the standard-housing high-flows are making around 250kw I was obviously hoping for a little more than that. The reason for the low boost is that using the OE RB25 boost solenoid we could not get boost above 13 psi, no matter what settings we used on the ECU. Tightened actuator pre-load too but that didn't do much. I asked the tuner what he thought & he says the low boost is the reason for the lack in power. Says this is good power for the boost but starting to wonder about him... Also asked if he thought there could be any other restrictions but said it was too loud for exhaust restrictions & after looking at intake said that all looked to be good. Said to come back with a boost-tee & we should make 220ish but even that is much lower than what I hoped for... One thing I did notice this morning is that a 5/8 hose had come off, between the IACV (or AACV?) & intercooler pipe. As this obviously happened during tuning, am starting to wonder if it was leaking boost... Also being a MAP sensor am wondering if this will cause other probs? Tuner also didn't use VCT as he said this was causing weird things to happen. Know that won't affect top-end power but makes me wonder more about this guy... Mid-range doesn't feel too bad at all but wondering if there's more to be had with VCT. So apart from the hose coming off & possibly leaking boost, does anyone have any ideas what else could cause such low power? Starting to wonder if tune is a problem but dont want to spend money on another one & get same results... Will try & post up a dyno sheet, as well as pictures of the base fuel & ignition maps. Sorry for the massive post Trying to give the most info I can to help with diagnosis. (if anyone actually reads this whole thing...) Any ideas or suggestions you may have are welcome. Cheers, Brett

& also if you do go ahead would possibly look into having the whole turbo out of the bonnet, not just the compressor side... Most top-end drag cars have compressor only but they are worried about drag, etc to get the best possible results (fractions of a second...) I am just thinking with whole turbo poking out you will be reducing a lot of heat that is normally in the engine-bay. Ceramic-coat, heat-wrap & heat shield your manifold, run a TINY exhaust straight off the turbo (so that it doesn't return into the engine-bay) & you will have lost a lot of trapped heat compared to a normal set-up. Just a thought... & be sure to post pics if you do it!

I would definitely look into doing it for a dedicated drag car. As stated maybe run a pod filter on it to minimise turbulence around the inlet to the turbo & to stop sucking crap in. Have seen full-race (unlimited budget) drag cars with the bonnet shaped to act as a sort of scoop to help feed air into the turbo...

Would have to be (or would bloody hope...) you have series 2 coilpacks as these have the ignitor built in. So running a series 2 loom with series 1 coilpacks would not work... Did you buy the complete engine (including coilpacks, etc), loom & ECU as a package, all off the same car? Only thing I can think of with fuel pump is a bad earth. You are right, if inhibitor switch was the problem, it would not even crank... Wasn't paying full attention to your original post. & come to think of it, not sure if manual & auto ECUs are different or if R33s all run same ECU & have a seperate auto-trans ECU like the RB20 R32 does.

Let us know how you go, post pics if need be & we'll go from there. Good luck!

Are you sure the standard GTST turbo is ball-bearing? Was quite confident it wasn't... I know GTR turbos are, but also obviously a completely different unit... A lot of highflows mention that the CHRA is up-graded to a ball-bearing, steel-wheeled setup. But even before that had always thought these weren't ball-bearing

Second time this week I've heard of a car running standard turbo with external gate setup!

That's why the steel-wool is in a stocking...

No doubt it will have some effect on airflow but I don't imagine this is too much of a concern unless you're actually causing a major restriction from the catch-can to intake, which could cause high crankcase pressure. Think this is what mine will do... Going to see if I can get any steel-wool out. Bloody hope so!

OK, but I assume the air should flow through the steel wool?Which is why I put a lot in to try & build the steel-wool up to the height of the inlet/outlet... This is being used as an oil/air seperator for a street car...