wlspn

It is a bit of a concern that they're so thin isn't it... How much steel-wool were you using? Heaps or just a little? According to Sydneykid (who knows what he's talking about) if the catch-can isn't baffled you should use steel-wool or it's not doing much as oil vapors are still getting through. Am sure some people would disagree though...

Do you mean using the steel-wool? I am not talking about the little tiny ones that leave splinters & have pink stuff on them... These are a stainless-steel (or at least so they say) scourer.

I saw a thread a while ago from Sydneykid (& others) that mentioned filling your catch-can with steel-wool (in a stocking) to slow down air speed (allowing the oil vapor time to drop from the air). I have recently fitted a catch-can so decided to do this... However with my CC design the inlet/outlet are right next to each other, near the very top of the can & it only has a very small hole. I assumed that there was no point having steel-wool down the bottom of the can when air is entering/exiting at the top so have put in HEAPS of steel-wool scourers to fill up the can as much as possible. The only thing is, as the hole on top is so small they have sort of compressed & are VERY tightly packed in there. I am getting a bit worried that I will be "slowing down" airflow too much (almost blocking flow) as I removed both hoses before & blew through the CC & blowing as hard as I can into one hose there is sweet-FA air coming out the other! However I must say, I never blew through the CC before it had steel-wool in it so dont really have anything to compare to. Maybe the can itself causes a slight restriction? Am hoping to go & get car tuned on Saturday so need to sort this out tomorrow. Will try & get some steel-wool out tomorrow but am wondering otherwise will this be ok? Due to the small hole don't know how much luck I'll have removing it... How tightly have other people packed theirs? (who have done the same thing)

Mate as far as your hose goes, braided is not essential. I have a remote oil-filter & hoses ready for oil cooler (routed but looped back until tuning is sorted) & use high-temp, high-pressure 'rubber' hose. 99% sure what I use is called Aeroquip. Definitely have the name but am falling asleep as I type... (on my phone) Can confirm tomorrow. Anyway it is a really thick chemical-resistant blue hose... Awesome stuff but not real cheap! Also use the same stuff for my turbo water feed/return & oil return. They have been on there for years & when I recently inspected them while the engine was out they were honestly as good as new! Good luck, Brett

On here somewhere (possibly the "how to: GReddy style plenum install" thread) a guy with an R33 had got his chopped in half & then plastic welded back together. Imagine it would cost sweet F-A & looks as good as factory. The stock washer bottle is HUGE so you can easily get away with it...

Must be the standard fuel reg that's shut it up... But seriously, as long as it still goes hard that's awesome. Would be a bit of a sleeper, sound wise, unless you have a bellowing exhaust... Can't remember the last time I heard a turbo on boost but quietly. Think almost everyone has a pod. Making an airbox for my pod filter at the moment, will be insulated so may keep noise down a bit. Considering fitting a stock airbox if I can make room for it, to keep noise down, might help me not get pulled over I'm hoping. Will also look more standard but with the rest of the stuff in the engine bay that probably wont help me a great deal... Anyway, with the Trust PE II cat-back (which is pretty quiet until full load, by my standards at least) will hopefully sound stock(ish) but pull like crazy!

Ok, thanks guys

Am getting a Haltech MAP sensor based ECU installed & tuned on my RB25 R32 & need an air temp sensor. Have been told I can use an RB26 item. I thought these were incorporated in the AFM but am hoping now that I was wrong. Was also told I could use a Delco item which is something I assume could be bought from automotive parts stores but surely they sell more then one type... Has anyone used a MAP sensor based ECU & had to source an air temp sensor & if so what did you get & where from? Cheers, Brett

Have heard of a few GTR boxes being modified for RWD lately. The transfer section gets chopped off & a plate welded in its place... Think you need to look into the cost of the GTR box + modifications & compare it to an RB25 box which is the exact same thing but already in a RWD format. Maybe if your mate is doing you a ridiculous price it will be worth it. If not just go a 25 box

& if I can use the standard boost solenoid do I have to give it a constant earth like people do to eliminate the two-stage boost setting or will the Haltech automatically take care of that, keeping it on one boost setting throughout the rev-range?

Cool, done alright then. OK, but do I need the Haltech ATS or will a universal (jaycar, etc) one do the same job if I can find one cheaper? Thanks for the opinion. Will probably buy a stand-alone EBC later but just want to get car running for now. So is it possible to use standard R33 solenoid? & just not be able to adjust boost level from in car? P.S Will be depositing money for brake pads on Monday

Have just purchased a Haltech R32/R33 Platinum Pro plug-in for my RB25 R32. First off does anyone know what these retail for? Want to know if I got a good price... Anyway, as I will be running the MAP sensor I'm assuming I have to now get an intake-air temp sensor? Wondering if I need a Haltech ATS or if someone like Jaycar would sell something a lot cheaper that would do the same job? The cost of everything lately is blowing out of control quick-smart so need to save money wherever possible... If I do need the Haltech unit does anyone have an idea on price? & I'm assuming the best place to mount this is just before the throttle-body so it is actually monitoring the temp of the air entering the plenum (after the intercooler, etc) Another thing I am unsure of is with the Haltechs boost-control, do I need to purchase the Haltech boost-control solenoid or can the ECU control the factory R33 solenoid? I am also wondering if I am able to rig up a switch to change between a high & low boost setting or if I am stuck on one setting? If a switch set-up can be done how would you go about it? Sorry for so many questions but I have very limited access to my tuner until next weekend when it is arranged to be tuned. So obviously I need to have everything ready to go by then. Any advice & info would be very helpful. Cheers, Brett

Dont imagine master brace will help as it is first half of pedal thats soft. When I am pressing that first half there is bugger all resistance so dont think the firewall would be flexing whatsoever at that point. & yeah, bled master cylinder before calipers but checked for air again after...

Dont imagine master brace will help as it is first half of pedal thats soft. When I am pressing that first half there is bugger all resistance so dont think the firewall would be flexing whatsoever at that point. & yeah, bled master cylinder before calipers but checked for air again after...

Anyone had this same problem? Or does anyone have any ideas, advice, opinions?

Out of interest, you aren't one of these people that gets a RB30 water pump & just puts silicon over the small hole that doesn't line up are you? Have heard many people say they do that & in my opinion its just asking for trouble...

I assume you are referring to a torsen (torque-sensing) centre. Helical is a style of gear cutting... e.g straight-cut or helical (angle-cut) Suppose if you came across a s15 setup cheap enough could be a good mod but still no match for a mechanical LSD in a race situation.

Just found this thread (after making my own about same thing...) I had the single-piston calipers from standard on my 32 GTST & had awesome pedal feel right from top of pedal. Then fitted R33 4/2 pot calipers & although they pull the car up good, the pedal feels like it goes about halfway down before anything really happens... So when the engine was out recently I fitted the 33 master & booster but still have the exact same pedal feel! Doesnt seem like anyone has solved this problem?

I was unfortunate enough that when I first got my 32 it had the front & rear single-piston calipers. Then was lucky enough to pick up a 33 GTST for next to nothing so swapped brake calipers (& rotors) over. They stopped the car fine but even when properly bled the pedal felt like it didnt start actually doing anything until it was about halfway down. I figured the 33 m/c probably had a bigger bore size & even if it didnt, the 32 m/c was a weird design with fluid going to the end of the bore then doing a u-turn before getting pushed down the line, so figured even if same bore that the design was giving me the low pedal feeling. So recently when I fitted the motor & gearbox from the 33 into my 32 I also swapped master cylinders, modifying a few lines along the way. However, now, even with the R33 master cylinder that was originally matched to the calipers I have, I have the same low pedal feel. I am going to re-bleed the brakes but dont think it is going to make much difference. Does anyone have any other suggestions or has anyone had this same problem? Thoughts & advice would be great. Cheers, Brett

would be using a z32 ECU. Yes, in Cranbourne right near status so going to speak to trrent about nistune & see if he thinks it would be suitable to solve my idle issues

ok. As I say I was leaning toward Nistune but this guy sorta put me off. Reckons there are still too many glitches at the moment & I had heard stuff about TPS problems, etc but from recent searches these seem solved... My other concern is, as some of you may know, I have recently written many threads about my car overfueling on idle. My injector pulse is 7ms & AFM signal is around 2v. This guy & another well known tuiner have told me its due to too many mods for standard ECU, playing havoc with airflow. It sounds like Nistune leaves the idle setup very standard so will this fix my problem? I assume fuel maps, etc at idle CAN be played with if necessary? cheers for the opinions so far guys

Havent really decided on a tuner yet. So far have done all work to car myself however this I obviously cant. Took my car to a shop recently for some diagnostic work & he suggested Haltech & strongly suggested I stay away from Nistune. The other advantage to the Haltech is a friend of a friend used to work installing & tuning Wolf's & now deals with Haltech so can possibly get a very good price. However, saying that, Im still quite open to any ECU, then will find someone to tune it. Have just been looking at Link... Why do you ask? Do you have any other suggestions for ECU choice?

Hey people, Put an RB25 with a few mods in my R32 & am currently trying to decide what sort of aftermarket ECU setup I want to go with. Have been considering a Nistune, etc remap of standard ECU, Power FC or something like Haltech. Just after some opinions on the pros & cons of both AFM & MAP sensor based ECUs. I know AFMs can suffer stalling, etc due to reversion of air when throttle is suddenly shut but a BOV should solve most of this, yeah? Also, obviously with a MAP sensor, you do not need to purchase upgraded AFMs... So while the Haltech is more expensive than the other options, by the time I buy a Z32 AFM & EBC (which the Haltech also has) I will be getting close to spending the same money. I just dont know heaps about MAP sensor based tuning...

I recently put an RB25 engine & R33 gearbox in my R32 GTST & all that had to be done was for the R33 yoke to be put on the R32 shaft. Same length, mounting points, etc... Mine was done in Keysborough area too by G&J Drivelines. Quite cheap. Also make one-piece shafts R32 & R33 tailshaft yokes are not easily removeable like 31's, etc Wouyld be nice if they were as I could have done job myself & just got it balanced

Bursons stock replacement gaskets for RB engines. Good quality & about a quarter of the price...